Hacked air box?

Its hard to track down an air filter for this car, fram or K&N, everyone seems to be lacking supplies. But what I plan on doing is cut up a factory air box so that its only the size of the filter (meaning, when its clamped down, the outside of the filter is exposed), but im not sure if I should use MY factory airbox or one off another car. Ive heard/read things about a civic airbox for custom intakes, but theres no tubes involved in this one...

And in all honesty will a K&N filter flow more than a fram in my case? IE it has access to air all around and the carb can only flow so much.... I just need a filter to put on... right now its no filter at all... but the only reason is because my filter is plugged up and literally slows the car down, and its rainy/humid so im not too worried... plus its a carb, itll be ok.

I'd just keep the stock unit, myself. No real gains to be had, there... And if you need/want the K&N just so you don't have to replace it as often, then they are available online for $41. Just hit their website. The K&N part is #E-9030.

yeah I got the part number, I know there wouldnt be any gains, but as for using a different filter or something, just kinda line it up, and cut the box...

And by the box I mean the part that connects directly to the carb (to avoid any confusion)

Advance Auto parts had my Fram in stock.....

One of the things I'm really going to like about doing the weber swap is the air cleaner. It's exactly like what you're describing.

Yeah whistler, but you can do it without the weber you know

yah, I know, but I can't rip out all the shitty vacuum stuff without the weber lol. That's the thing I am looking forward to the most. I know guys have done vacuum removals with the stock carb, but from everything I've read, it's better to do it with a carb that doesn't use them to start with, and it will be cleaner too. Once all the vacuum stuff is gone, I'll be able to really clean up my engine.

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yah, I know, but I can't rip out all the shitty vacuum stuff without the weber lol. That's the thing I am looking forward to the most. I know guys have done vacuum removals with the stock carb, but from everything I've read, it's better to do it with a carb that doesn't use them to start with, and it will be cleaner too. Once all the vacuum stuff is gone, I'll be able to really clean up my engine.

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I suppose, I only have like 4 vacuum lines, idle solenoid, vacuum advance, secondary (still vacuum) and fuel evap cannister... dont think you can get rid of any more lines than I did. Its probably true that its best to have a carb that doesnt have them in the first place, but more importantly its just a better carb, and will flow more and get you more power... I dont know how much more power though, everything else stock id say maybe 10hp with a good filter on it?

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Originally Posted by FyreDaug

I suppose, I only have like 4 vacuum lines, idle solenoid, vacuum advance, secondary (still vacuum) and fuel evap cannister... dont think you can get rid of any more lines than I did. Its probably true that its best to have a carb that doesnt have them in the first place, but more importantly its just a better carb, and will flow more and get you more power... I dont know how much more power though, everything else stock id say maybe 10hp with a good filter on it?

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that sounds like a good gain. but im in california and we have smog here... so i just got the K&N filter...my old one had like 15k on it and that thing was old an tired...poped the new filter and i felt it and it did take off better....it took me 11 secs to get up to 60(automatic)....i think the vacuum removal with the K&N filter and fliped lid would be the best combo since you can go back if you have smog and if you dont just do it and save that money insted of geting a weber

yeah, I dunno what the gain is either....

I actually think my fuel evaporator is disconnected at this point.....I'll have to check and make sure.

i was actully going to do the same thing, just cut of the sides of the stock air box (spare incase it doesnt work) and throw in a K&N, but i didnt know i had to have vacum lines deleted for this

It changes the vacuum situation, so the response of the carb and it's components change.

Basicly with an aircleaner installed the stock way you have more vacuum because the sealed box creates more vacuum.

When you flip the lid or cut the walls of the air box it no longer forms a sealed plenum and thus vacuum is lower.

Things like fuel mixture, Secondary opening time, Ignition Advance, powervalve all will be affected.

So while you benifit from more open free flowing filter negating the hot cold air argument... you are changing the vacuum... for better or for worse is hard to say... you can always tweak it with the lower vaccum in mind.


Also running with no filter, again will lower the vaccum even more.