I'm gonna do the outter of my car someway

I was thinkin since I have the time, I'm going to get some paint thinner and some cans of flat black rattle can primer. I plan to thin the paint off my hood and my trunk lid. I'm going to shave my emblem holes while I'm at it (as well as I don't have any emblems anyway, just Zumiez stickers covering the holes lol).

Before I get started is it okay to use paint thinner on our bumpers? I got paint happy about a month ago and tried to match my original paint on my car to the front bumper.

I'll take pics when it's all done and show you how it came out.

(PS, this might not be the right section for a project thread, but I didn't have pics yet o i didn't want to put it in the pics and vids).

what do you mean thinning the paint? if you have any bare metal on your car it needs to be painted with a self etch metal primer first. if you want to rattle can your car you need to clean the paint throughly first to remove all dirt and wax,then you need to scuff sand the paint with something like 400 grit paper,don't go all the way to metal!! just lightly scuff the paint. then you can ratle can it. you'll need some self etch primer anyway,to fill those emblem holes,first sand the paint around the holes to bare metal,then take a center punch and place it in each hole,now lightly tap on ehe punch. you want a shallow indentation with the old emblem hole being at the center. this gives the filler something to adhere to. if you put it on a flat surface and tried to sand it,it will flake away. the shallow dent will give the filler somewhere to go. now sand your filler,and prime the area wth self etch primer.

I'm actually thinning the paint on the trunk to see where the rust is and if it's fixeable. It's easy to see that when it came down to buisness the last owner wasn't the best at getting rid of rust cuz a can of Rustoleum can only do so much lol. I need to remove ALL paint from the trunk to see where the rust is, and I also wanted to remove the paint (not all of it though) from the hood so see if the there are any Bondo spots, in which case I'll be getting a new hood. I already need to replace the whole left fender due it's being made of about 99.9% bondo and spray paint lol.

I couldn't find anyone that wanted to come out to my car and sand it for me (not for free) so once again this is a cheap and temporary fix to an age old problem.

After that, I'm filing a $2100 (lol, like it's worth that much) lien on the car for lost title, and then I'll finally have it registered so i can begin actually puting money into it and not feel wierd since it's not in my name.

New windshield
New (or used but better) mirrors
New headlight motors
New studded tires (I'm using my winter wheels right now since it's not really driveable)
New STOCK, or close to it, exhaust
and much more (cuz it has to much more or it wouldn't be a project)

If these damned cars didn't have the stinkin independent rear-suspention I'd have a full rear-disk brake conversion out in my back yard lol, but I'll just save that for the next 1g CRX that comes my way.

stinkin independent rear suspension!?!? BLASPHEMY!!!!

oh, it might be easier to pick up a deck lid from the j/y thats in better shape

I'm still kinda new in the world of restoration rather than mod's so...j/y? I don't know lol.

Yeah, I like the independents, but every car I've owned has had that.

what is wrong with the rear suspension? double wishbone with swaybar and unequal length trailing arms? this car has a very sophisticated rear suspension for a front wheel drive car. the front is straight from hondas race cars from the eighties double wishbone front with unequal length control arms,locator bars and sway bar? most people don't realize this but the struts on our car actually don't support the weight of the car like a mcphearson strut suspension.they are strictly dampers,they are set up closer to a fixed coilover then a mcphearson strut suspension. if you put the car on ramps and look at the suspension with the weight on the wheels,you'll see that the springs,struts are actually tilted towards each other. on a mcphearson strut suspension they are straight up and down and support the weight of the car. how a double wishbone works is there are two pivot points on the steering knuckle. one at the lower control arm,and one at the top of the wishbone which attaches to the upper control arm. this allows the wheel to go up and down and maintain a constant camber. this allows much more contact patch to stay on the road. on a conventional suspension as the suspension travels up and down,the camber changes. you'll see this on lowriders as the suspension travels to extremes,the camber changes enough to see the wheels tilt. the reason most people think this suspension sucks,is most of the suspensions on these cars are worn out. I just rebuilt my front suspension and this car handles like it's on rails. my only complaint is that the factory struts/springs are too soft. this can be fixed though.

Here's my old Prelude done up with $0.98 a can rattle paint.

http://img478.imageshack.us/img478/163/lude0155jn.jpg

j/y is not mods lol
j/y is junk yard...

Well, this accords lowered terribly (by the other owner) with clipped springs but I have Tokico blue's on there now and I'm looking for a decent set of cheapo springs to replace the clippers.

I'll call Action U-pull-it, 5 bucks and you can look around all day and whatever you want that you can get off with your own tools and carry is what you get, pretty sweet deal. I have a whole Saturn SL-1 chillin out there right now lol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cancer

Well, this accords lowered terribly (by the other owner) with clipped springs but I have Tokico blue's on there now and I'm looking for a decent set of cheapo springs to replace the clippers.
I'll call Action U-pull-it, 5 bucks and you can look around all day and whatever you want that you can get off with your own tools and carry is what you get, pretty sweet deal. I have a whole Saturn SL-1 chillin out there right now lol.

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Look for Intrax Springs, about $170 but i think youl love um, especially if youre looking to be not as low.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by halxi

Look for Intrax Springs, about $170 but i think youl love um, especially if youre looking to be not as low.

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how low are they? I don't want to lower my car too much,but maby a small drop

Here is basically what your car will look like. Have about 30% rattle can on the body & lots of bondo from an accident. I pulled dents out with dent puller, so the bondo isn't like 3" of hardning madness.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...c9-22front.jpg

Well my body's fine aside from a few rust issues. A sand-blasting and mabey some metal work on the worser area's will clear that up, as well as a different trunk and new hood, and a new left fender. A can of VHT cost's 7 bucks here, so I might just go with some flat black unless I wanna plug in my paint gun and shoot the car with primer, only problem is I REALLY hate to sand lol. New rebuilt motor's from the imported engine shop down the road cost about 700 bucks so thats not a problem, and i could really care less about carb'd or EFI cuz the car worls just fine. I DO however HAVE to find new arms for the headlight motors cuz my buddy kinda drop kicked both my head lights and broke the mounts....I don't really care though. All that'll be cheap.

I can't wait to get a new motor so I can tuck some wiring, build a battery mount, and get rid of the ugly red cam-cover for good lol. And it'll give me a chance to wire the radiator fan to the ignition since it hasn't been working lately.

you can get a cheap spray gun for like 40 bux and the prime will look even, and you can use it to lay down base coat, too

^ i would do what he said, almost anything beats rattle can (besides rollers. lol.) i would just get a gun, borrow a compressor, and paint away