Oil whistle?

Ok, when doing the head/valve job on my LX carb engine. there was an oil orifice in the center top of the head. Some sort of metering device.. what does this do and is it neccessary. I put mine back in but not so sure if it set right. I noticed it took a long time, Long time for the half quart of oil I put in wiht the valve cover off, before I adjusted the valves. As if an air pocket or something was in the return drain. The manual said BE Sure it goes in, but it looks like an easliy overlooked item, esp if you aint seen one on any other make heads before.
A problem is..{ well the pvc is not hooked up yet, I have to make a housing for it that goes in the oil separater black box. The opening of the box is clear, and I have breather on Valve cover, should not be much pressure.} Smoke is billowing from under the exhaust mani. and some from the tailpipe. It appears like oil may be coming from the head gasket, but not totaly confirmed yet. I have done so much , too much at one time on this job, so just getting it running was gratifying. Weber conv, and all that goes with making that work without a complete kit. Resealing all o rings etc.., I cleaned the valve cover good, and the engine was very clean, but I did not really check the baffle enclosed.
Any how, the oil whistle, what is up with that thing?

Thats an oil jet and yes you need it.

What parts do you have for your weber, what weber do you have?

Make sure you look at the how to before you start the conversion.

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Originally Posted by A20A1

Thats an oil jet and yes you need it.
What parts do you have for your weber, what weber do you have?
Make sure you look at the how to before you start the conversion.

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Ok so I need it, what does it do and what if it does not do it like it should?
I should be able to see it from the top with V cover off ?

I used a Rock Gasket (brand name) head gasket, it is what the machine shop sold me. I it is made largely of graphite and looked easy to damage because is was so soft.
Weber is 2 stage 32-36, I have it all together and running but the smoke is a concern so I have not run it long enough to fine tune. The linkage was a design build, but it came out ok-it really looks OEM (in a Mopar kind of way) , I wound up taking the cable holder off the factory carb, trimming and attached it to Mazda set up on the Weber. Got a couple of different exhaust hangars from the A Zone and cut the riviets off, utilized that hardware to bring the throttle cable bracket across the manifold using existing bolt holes in the mani.

I just wanted to make sure you blocked the coolant hole in the intake manifold that is underneath the weber adapter plates.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by A20A1

I just wanted to make sure you blocked the coolant hole in the intake manifold that is underneath the weber adapter plates.

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for sure did. countersunk the hole first and used jbweld , filed down carefully..plugged off small coolant line from coolant tree...everything with the carb conversion seems to be well at this time, I have not put it on the road yet though. I did have concerns about the fuel pressure reg. which I am not using yet. Is that really going to be neccessary,regulator ?
I know this topic is drifting from the oil orifice, which I think people should know more about. I used marvel mystery oil to keep studs and cyl from forming rust while I was waiting on parts, I am hoping that is what is smoking so much, it just keeps on coming though from under the exh manifold, not so much from tailpipe but some. I have a header coming hopefully this week, so I will take off the manifold and get a better look, clean it real good.

Have you fixed the PCV yet?

The fuel pressure regulator is if you get a better fuel pump... the stock one is timid and doesn't flow a whole lot nor does it put out a lot of PSI. You need a pump with good flow, and they might put out 6 psi or so, so you get the regulator in there to bring it down to 3 or 3.5 psi. Also it helps if you are converting EFI to Carb. You throw on a regulator to lower the fuel pressure. Without the reg, the float components would fail to seal.

thanks for clairifying that about the fuel pressure. I may not need to do all of that since its not a racer strickly.
I cut off about an inch of the PVC housing (it broke like most do) and fit a piece of 1 inch heater hose to connect it to oil separator and it still will not stand strieght up and clear the intake. It is hard to get to because everything is mounted now.I am going to have to get a curved 1 inch, probably trim off a piece of a heater bypass hose from a Mopar 318 and bring it over so the pvc will be accessable from the top engine. I have a new OEM style pvc valve in the plastic piece, and I hope the extra length does not change the calculated pressure needs of the pvc system.
I was trying to find a good diagram of the separator in relation to the pvc housing etc..
I am going to go out on a limb and say the ye ole'oil whistle just keeps the oil from blasting oil inside the valve cover. A diagram of the oil path thru the engine would be helpful.

The PCV valve does not need to stand up perfectly straight. I ended up buying some rubber hose for the bottom of the PCV to the oil separator... but there is a size difference you have to contend with.
I then connected the regular rubber hose from the top of the PCV to the intake manifold... In order to get a good bend without using a "U" piece of rubber... you use two 90 degree vaccum elbows.

I also had bored out the hole in the intake manifold so that the intake manifold does not even touch the PCV valve anymore... which makes it easier to replace the valve.

That sounds like a good plan as well. I know the PVC doesnt have to stand up, I was refering it not clearing the manifold even though I had trimmed off a good bit of the housing where it broke. My valve fits firmly in the housing and sticks out at a 45 angle slightley where the vac hose attaches.

To clean up the look of the intake manifold I was considering cutting out all of the excess webbing on the intake manifold where the PVC comes through. But it would be my luck to hit a water jacket. It would have been easier to access the intake mani nuts, PVC, inspect oil filter area etc.. Anyhow I didnt and Im using those empty bolt holes now for linkage mounts.

;voila NO MORE SMOKE anywhere, it was mostly the Marvel mystery oil I used on the block to keep it from rusting, and the pentrating oil I used on the exhaust bolts.

All OIL smoke and tailpipe smoking cleared up with pvc installation, I used a heater by pass hose that fits a 5.9 litre dodge truck to curve off the black oil box, and trimmed off the damaged part of the plastic tube that goes up to under the manifold. This brings it up to the right side of the intake manifold for easy service and access. I use a larger vacuum port off the tee in back, and run it to a oem pvc in the housing.
I still need somebody to explain what the orifice or oil jet does and what happens if it does not work or was left out.
Also do other series motors use this device as well. The oil jet that goes in the head, resembles a dowel pin but in the center top of block. It must be in place before setting head on. What does it do, what are the ramifications if it is left out. I did not leave mine out but it may not be in right, or functioning right, how would I know.

If you leave it out it will wash out the bearings. The pointed end needs to face down.

Nevermind. (didn't read the thread all the way through)

Guys I had some major issues going on at the time of this thread. I edited it some to adjust the tone..:)