fuel filter prep?

i just replaced the primary fuel filter and the car runs great. if anybody read any of my previous threads, i was having terrible luck with it. everything seems to be good now except for one thing. when i go up hills and shift to second, it bucks and starts to die. its only going up hills though so i was wondering, do you have to fill the filter with gas before you put it in so there is no air in it? i dunno what else it could be caused from. i replaced both fuel filters, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, pcv valve and had the carb rebuilt. any help is appreciated.

you don't need to fill up fuel filter. most likely your fuel pump can't keep up with demand. i say get a new one or test the one you have now.

float level,also the factory fuel pumps in the carb cars are pathetic. I need to fix my booster pump. the factory pump can't keep up with demand ,especially at higher rpms. the carb is actually better then a lot of people think but even with a new pump the pump can't fill the float bowl fast enough. it's not pressure you need,it's volume. the pump will fall behind and the engine will run flat until the bowl refills,in other words you can step on the gas and nothing will happen. I have had a digital norskog gauge for a number of years and as soon as you get near 4 grand the fuel pressure will drop to zero. this means the needle valve is open and the float bowl is filling. it takes a long time to fill though before the valve closes and the pressure comes up. this does this even with a new pump and new filters.

Edit- nevermind.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by lostforawhile

float level,also the factory fuel pumps in the carb cars are pathetic. I need to fix my booster pump. the factory pump can't keep up with demand ,especially at higher rpms. the carb is actually better then a lot of people think but even with a new pump the pump can't fill the float bowl fast enough. it's not pressure you need,it's volume. the pump will fall behind and the engine will run flat until the bowl refills,in other words you can step on the gas and nothing will happen. I have had a digital norskog gauge for a number of years and as soon as you get near 4 grand the fuel pressure will drop to zero. this means the needle valve is open and the float bowl is filling. it takes a long time to fill though before the valve closes and the pressure comes up. this does this even with a new pump and new filters.

---

interesting.....Tim.....yeah he has a weber so it will suck up more fuel....what other pumps can we buy so the volume can keep up?.....i remember that A20A1 said that he only used one fuel filter...he upgraded to like a mussle car filter since thoes have to keep up with a 4 barrel carb...

awesome, guess i'll be getting a new pump to see what that does. what kind do you guys recommend??

Walbro pump, they are on Ebay all the time!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AccordinglyAZ

Walbro pump, they are on Ebay all the time!

---

that is for fuel injection unless you put a APR and tune it to 3.5psi

I usually have a mallory model 70 in line after the factory fuel pump,but it's broke right now. it's 30 GPH at 5 psi so you would need a regulator. the factory fuel pump makes sure it's primed,since the pickup is in the tank. the factory fuel pump can deliver more fuel that close to the tank since it doesn't have to push it but about 18 inches. don't try to run one of these pumps off of the factory electronic fuel pump control. use a relay that the coil is connected to the factory pump. this maintains your safety for the fuel pump shutof in an emergency. your power comes from a seperate circuit and goes through the relay,this swtches the second pump on and off with the main pump. it's a good idea for a safety cutoff switch in the car. thiss is a mallory MAA-4070. I'm running a holley regulator designed for low pressure applications. a standard holley regulator doesn't go low enough. this particular pump will eaisily feed the standard carb and should feed any webber combination that will fit this car.