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for some reason i keep burnning out the main fuse for the "battery", at the fuse box in the engine compartment. the car starts fine and the ignition timming is fine their seems to be no bad connection or strain on the battery that i know about. any suggestions.
how old is the battery?
how are the gound wires?
how is the wire from alternator?
the battery is new, the ground wires are fine. i hve them going from the intake manifold, fuel rail, valve cover and ignition coil to the body.the battery light doent come on the alternator is fine.
i would recheck the wires....or even replace them 17 year old wires dont hold up to new wire....wuts the size of the fuse you are replacing it with?
High resistance in the wires will cause the fuses to blow. When they get old they corrode (sp?) (ever seen a wire that has a blue/green tint to it) and cause the battery to discharge more amperage to start the engine. Also look for poor connections or corroded connections, this would cause a high amp draw.
i have the battery in the very back in the trunk, i redid the connection to the negative cable to the body connection by scrapping more of the paint to expose the metal.it's a 70amp fuse that continues to blow. the fuse i replaced it with was used also but was in better shape.
what size wire are you using to run the power and ground cable?
70 amps takes about 3/8" gauge wire off the top of my head. (sort of late & not getting into the technical part untill later)
5-7 gauge wire, looks "about" half an inch. the thickest one i found for the battery post at Advance Auto. and from the bodyto the valve cover the same thickness. i got a bunch of 10 gauge wire going to various places from the engine to the body.Quote:
Originally Posted by shepherd79
since you have battery in the trunk you need to upgrade to at least 4 gauge wire. the wire you are using looks like may be have too much resistance and causing main fuse to pop.
replace all the wires with 4gauge wire including the power, ground wires. they all should be the same size. if the wires are not the same it can also cause fuse blow.
check out the how to section about DIY ground kit.
damn, thats alot of wire to replace. so, whats the difference between the stock wires for the battery being in front and me the same modifications vs. the battery being in the back in the trunk with 5-6gauge wire? will it be possible to just change the HOT wire since the whole car is grounded?
lets put this way. when the battery upfront the cables a lot smaller. i think power wire may be 4 gauge pushing. and the ground wires look like they are half the size of power wire, so it is probably 8 gauge.
since the cables are short the resistance in the wire is not that great.
if you take the same wire and extend to the back of the car, the resistance can double very easy. So the only way to drop the resistance is to go with larger wires. the lowest i would recomend is 4gauge wire. you can step up to 2 gauge if you are planning to have huge stereo system.
you can get wire by the foot at any audio store or you can go to lowes or home depot and get coper high voltage electrical wire.
the ground wire should be the same size as power wire for best electrical flow.
i would walk into a audio store...they have the stuff in spools...so you can buy it by the feet.
ok, i have solved the problem with the assistance of you all. i had 4 gauge wire already in their come to find out. so i up graded to 2 gauge which really made a difference in the response that wasn't their with the original wire. i also added more ground to the engine, placing some of the remainder 4 gauge from the body over the radiator forming a v-shape to the valve cover and imtake manifold. i still have to buy 3 more feet of wirecause the rest is 4 gauge connecting to the starter and fuse box.
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