Need to replace clutch soon

Ok so when i got my car the previous owner had never adjusted their clutch cable and i think it wasn't closing all the way or whatever but now it's almost worn out.. the nut is almost to the top of the adjuster bolt and there's very little play between disengagded and fully engagded so im guessing it's time for a new clutch

what parts exactly do i need to replace? and what kind of options are there? I hear about colors and stages but yeah.. I'm hoping to eventually have i/h/e done to the car, so should i get something a lil better than stock or will i be ok with a brand new stock replacement?

thanks :thumbup:

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Originally Posted by frantik

Ok so when i got my car the previous owner had never adjusted their clutch cable and i think it wasn't closing all the way or whatever but now it's almost worn out.. the nut is almost to the top of the adjuster bolt and there's very little play between disengagded and fully engagded so im guessing it's time for a new clutch

what parts exactly do i need to replace? and what kind of options are there? I hear about colors and stages but yeah.. I'm hoping to eventually have i/h/e done to the car, so should i get something a lil better than stock or will i be ok with a brand new stock replacement?

thanks :thumbup:

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yo bro.....all you need is the clutch...and you know who to go....and you will need to resurface the flywheel.....i can help you also....we did geddys in like 10-12 hours...but if all of us help we can whip it out fast.

When we had our clutch replaced @ 178,000 we put this one in
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-E...QQcmdZViewItem

It's held up VERY well since my mother is a Insane Driver and VERY HARD on 5 Speeds!

Good Luck!

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Originally Posted by forrest89sei

It's held up VERY well since my mother is a Insane Driver and VERY HARD on 5 Speeds!

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yeah i like to drive my car pretty hard too :D so is that exedy clutch an upgrade or just a recommended oem replacement?

I think it's an upgrade.

A lil harder then stock.

When my brother and i replaced my clutch about 2 weeks ago, we used an Exedy clutch disk and pressure plate. And since no shops around here resurface flywheels, i ordered a new one, which was $50 shipped from rockauto. All this was a stock replacement. Then we also went ahead and replaced the release bearing, which is a good idea to do.



P.S. I believe Exedy is one of the best OEM replacements. I am really happy with the Exedy in my car. Grips much smoother then my old one, and just makes the car feel way different(in a good way) overall.

yeah the exedy is rated better than OEM replacement....its like 10-15% better than OEM....i adjusted my cable and it helped a bit but i still have some mods that i have to put on my car and it might not last a lot longer the way i drive...yeah i would get lighten flywheel

so are these alll parts im gonna need:

* new or resurfaced flywheel
* clutch disc
* pressure plate
* throwout bearing


? it looks like the exedy kit that forrest posted has the bearing, plate and disc

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Originally Posted by frantik

so are these alll parts im gonna need:

* new or resurfaced flywheel
* clutch disc
* pressure plate
* throwout bearing


? it looks like the exedy kit that forrest posted has the bearing, plate and disc

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Yes that sounds about right. Make sure you torque everything down as well, and use engine assembly lube where the manual specifies. Oh DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR ON THE CLUTCH DISK. It can cause cancer. Use carb or brake cleaner on all parts but the clutch disk. This is because for shipping, the pressure plate and flywheel will have oil on them so they wont rust, you need to get that off.



P.S. Not sure if this is meeded, but we also replaced the spring that goes with the release bearing. You could change it as well.

I sent you a PM bro.....:thumbup:

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Originally Posted by russiankid

Yes that sounds about right. Make sure you torque everything down as well, and use engine assembly lube where the manual specifies. Oh DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR ON THE CLUTCH DISK. It can cause cancer. Use carb or brake cleaner on all parts but the clutch disk. This is because for shipping, the pressure plate and flywheel will have oil on them so they wont rust, you need to get that off.



P.S. Not sure if this is meeded, but we also replaced the spring that goes with the release bearing. You could change it as well.

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A little clarification on the lube. The manual calls for molybdenum disulfide lubricant. Unfortunately we couldn't find that so we used engine assembly lube instead. It's a high-pressure and high-retention lubricant so it should be fine for the application. Also, as mentioned, the release bearing return spring could be replaced if you feel that its necessary. It may change the feel of the clutch pedal in its initial travel. HTH

Normally when people replace their clutch, they change their

1) clutch disk
2) pressure plate
3) throw out bearing

even tho a lot of people seem to change their flywheel, just make sure its not in a very bad condition, usually people when they have their cars in the family its in a very good shape and thus they don't touch the flywheel. Resurfacing one sure does help in the engagement of the clutch.

Exedy, ACT, Clutch masters and Spec clutches are good ones amongst others.

Make sure that kit from forrest has a clutch alignment tool also. If not, get one. I like to use red lock-tite on flywheel to crankshaft bolts, but that's me. Make sure you face the clutch disc facing the right way, it'll be stamped close to the middle. Look at the flywheel for surface cracks, if there are any, it needs resurfaced. If it's just glazed over, you can cut a corner & sand it down with 100 grit sand paper real good. Resurfacing is good way to do it right though. Put a little grease in the pilot bearing hole too.

resurface a flywheel... lol... just take some sandpaper to it... works fine...lol


its what the dealers do...

This is the kit i posted

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-E...QQcmdZViewItem

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Originally Posted by hotdoghogie

resurface a flywheel... lol... just take some sandpaper to it... works fine...lol
its what the dealers do...

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LOL, i have to agree with him. when you get to flywheel. just look at it. if you see hair cracks, deep grooves or any thing else that doesn't look right you may want to replace the whole thing. if the flywheel doesn't look bad, take a sand paper (100 grid will do just fine), piece of wood. wrap it and sand it. Do it in circular motion all the way around. don't stay for too long at one spot. all you are doing is removing GLAZING. it should have dull look to it when it is all done.

Since you are doing bolt on upgrades. i would recommend stage 1 clutch upgrade. it will grip better and it will be able to handle all the upgrades.

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Originally Posted by ddude2uc

Make sure that kit from forrest has a clutch alignment tool also. If not, get one. I like to use red lock-tite on flywheel to crankshaft bolts, but that's me. Make sure you face the clutch disc facing the right way, it'll be stamped close to the middle. Look at the flywheel for surface cracks, if there are any, it needs resurfaced. If it's just glazed over, you can cut a corner & sand it down with 100 grit sand paper real good. Resurfacing is good way to do it right though. Put a little grease in the pilot bearing hole too.

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Wouldn't it be hard to get the flywheel off later on if using red lock-tite?

Probably if you don't have someone to hold the crankshaft bolt with a 1/2" breaker bar. It's just my preference to do it like that. People do things different. Just like when to resurface a flywheel.

You have PM Bro :thumbup:

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Originally Posted by forrest89sei

I think it's an upgrade.
A lil harder then stock.

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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-E...QQcmdZViewItem

ftmfw!

I have that setup in my accord and that bitch will NOT slip...

I went from reverse at about 20mph to 1st, spinnin tires like crazy... no clutch slippage, and the clutch still grabs fine.

The cable in my car sticks right now, so the pedal gets stuck on the floor then jumps up and the car jerks really hard, but still no slippage.

You cant go wrong with exedy anything when it comes to clutches.

go stage 2 u wont be sorry

ya go exedy i have a stage one racing clutch rated for like 300-350 hp but man i have givn that car shit and the clutch still holds up.

STAGE2 OWNS almost all but STAGE3

lol my oem clutch holds up just fine to me beating the shit out of it


i have absolutly abused that poor clutch for the last 2 years and it has NEVER sliped

it was brandnew when i got the car tho...maybe it hasn't had time to die yet?

when they did the clutch in my car at 113k they didnt put any play on the cable so the clutch would not enguage all the way.....and when i got it....it was my first time driving stick...so i mest up my clutch...it would slip....now that i adjusted my cable it doesnt slip only on high RPMS when shifting gears.