Funky Brake Indicator Light Issue

I am at a loss on this one. Last night I noticed that the brake indicator light on the instrument panel was dimly lit. It would fluctuate from barely being lit to about 50% brightness and it did not stay consistently bright. The master cylinder is not leaking and the fluid level has been right at the max mark since the last fluid change I did two months ago. I replaced the M/C about 65,000 miles ago with a brand new one (not rebuilt). I have had to replace M/C's about every 100,000 miles since the car was new. The fluid is crystal clear, the brakes work fine, the parking brake releases completely, and there are no fluid leaks.

Now you know why I am at a loss on this one. :)

the brake light on the dash is only for the ebrake. take off the center console and see if the switch isn't deactivating when you release it.

When the fluid is low, a magnet in the float passes by a pair of contacts. They close and the light comes on. Sometimes they do not open fully or moisture gets between them. Unplug one of the wires that goes to the cap on the master and see if this fixes the problem. If so you will need another cap, if you want the indicator to work and not light all the time.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by snoopyloopy

the brake light on the dash is only for the ebrake.

---

No, it's not. It is also for indicating low fluid in the master cylinder reservoir.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by snoopyloopy

the brake light on the dash is only for the ebrake. take off the center console and see if the switch isn't deactivating when you release it.

---

snoopy get your shit straight, it works for e-brake and brake fluid level.

I suspected that it might be an issue with the sensor in the cap. The new M/C I bought was another brand other than Nissin (Honda OEM) and it came complete with the reservoir and cap. With Honda you have to buy those parts separately, I think. I like things that are easy to test, though.

Thanks!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by shepherd79

snoopy get your shit straight, it works for e-brake and brake fluid level.

---

sorry, my brake fluid never gets that low so the only indicator i knew of was the contact under the ebrake handle.

Thank you, Shepherd, that is exactly what the problem was. I played with the cap assembly a bit and got the switch to actuate and the light to go off, but for a long term fix I will most likely need a new cap.

Thanks again!

lol at snoopy......i see he knows alot abouts cars.....LOL

:(

Play nice, Messy!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DBMaster

Play nice, Messy!

---

sorry...:violin:

now class..pop quiz..what does it mean when the oil pressure link is blinking when the engine is idling..and what does it mean when it's on steadily..and for extra credit..what does it mean when it doesn't light up when you turn the ignition key.

"an underinformed mechanic is more deadly then an unclamped fuel line"

and


"manuals are an accords best friend"

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by njpeter

now class..pop quiz..what does it mean when the oil pressure link is blinking when the engine is idling..and what does it mean when it's on steadily..and for extra credit..what does it mean when it doesn't light up when you turn the ignition key.

"an underinformed mechanic is more deadly then an unclamped fuel line"

and


"manuals are an accords best friend"

---

if the light is blinking, the oil pressure is low due to a few things: dirty oil filter, major problems with crankshaft bearings and worn out oil pump.
if the light is ON at all times, you have no oil pressure. your oil pump or your engine is toasted.

Peter, are these things you have personally experienced? I pretty much agree with Shepherd on questions 1 and 2. My answer to the extra credit question is tentative. I think it either means that the oil pressure sender is disconnected, or the bulb in the cluster is burned out.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by shepherd79

if the light is blinking, the oil pressure is low due to a few things: dirty oil filter, major problems with crankshaft bearings and worn out oil pump.
if the light is ON at all times, you have no oil pressure. your oil pump or your engine is toasted.

---

oH TEACHER oh Teacher (raising hand like horseshack)
sometimes the sender gets a glob of sludge in it that causes erratic lights too.
(thinks to self) I hate ASE tests, they leave no room for real life variances

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MessyHonda

lol at snoopy......i see he knows alot abouts cars.....LOL

---

Ummm MH, he does know his shit from what I have observed.:stick:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by roodoo2

Ummm MH, he does know his shit from what I have observed.:stick:

---

yes i do......


here is my garage...https://www.3geez.com/forum/vbpicgall...p?do=view&g=36

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MessyHonda

yes i do......
here is my garage...https://www.3geez.com/forum/vbpicgall...p?do=view&g=36

---

Not YOu,but Snoopy, scroll back dawg
well you know sh*t MH, "lol" ;o)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by roodoo2

oH TEACHER oh Teacher (raising hand like horseshack)
sometimes the sender gets a glob of sludge in it that causes erratic lights too.
(thinks to self) I hate ASE tests, they leave no room for real life variances

---

i never thought about sludge. it is poossible, but for that to happen the engine has to be in very bad shape.
the only time i made my oil like fliker when i took hard corners on my old carbed accord. but after you shut the engine off and start it back up it goes away.
you can use one of those engine oil flush things, but i don't recomend. sometimes they clean out too much stuff and cause a lot more problems down the road.

I realized after I figured out it was the cap that my M/C came with a lifetime warranty. So, I had the parts store get in a new one and we just swapped out the caps. Problem solved.

Thank you all for your assistance.