how far should they go in, whats safe?

i assume most cv axles from honda are made somewhat the same, even if they are diferent sizes...

so my question is > with the axle un-nutted in the spindle, how far should i be able to push it in before it stops??

should the end of the axle be flat with the surface of the spindle where the nut meets with?? would that be safe way of measuring?

the b18 in the car is mounted in such a way where it will be almost level with my axles with the lowering i have on the car, and still be able to close my hood.

when i push them through, they are almost flat with the nut surface.. little bit more on both sides, they are out of a 92 LS 2dr teg

thx in advance for your time, i tried to google specs and info on this stuff, and all i get are mostly sites that want me to buy shit.:gun:

isn't anyone afraid that i might fuck something up????? lol bump

or should i assume that my measurements are correct and that it will be fine.

I wish I KNEW!

Bump for a answer for Vector and his bitching 88 Accord Hatch, who lives in a place I'm going to visit in September! LOL

Are you worried about the axles being too short? You mean that you're afraid that the CV joints are being stretched too far? I don't know if I can help you with your problems specifically, but maybe if we clear up the question a bit someone else can...

I'd say even with the very end. Beyond that, and I think it gets a little risky.

They should be level with the spindle and have a slight bit of play in them. To long or to short they will wear out fast. When I was figuring out what axles to run on my swap, I ended up literally blowing 2 axles apart becasue they were to short.

Maybe you could mount them up, and unsnap the CV boots and see how the joints look. Repack the joints and clip em back up if they look good. Sounds like the only real way to know for sure.

umm pics help explain....

passenger side normal.
http://www.kelownaimports.com/wp-con..._31_07-017.jpg

passenger side pushed in.
http://www.kelownaimports.com/wp-con..._31_07-019.jpg

drivers side normal.
http://www.kelownaimports.com/wp-con..._31_07-020.jpg

drivers side pushed in.
http://www.kelownaimports.com/wp-con..._31_07-021.jpg

What i dont want to happen is, the cv axel seperating from the transmission. and i dont want it to hit the tranny either under cornering and what not....

did this help??? i dont really know how to ask this type of question.... ummm basically how much in/out play if it were stock????

fuck, that was fast replies lol thanks

umm from my understanding and what else i've read is apparently i don't know why but some teg forums show the 2dr having more narrow wheel base than the 4dr, don't know if thats correct, but if it is, then i'm looking for 4dr ls axles that match the wheel base for the accord, i measured the tranny's and they both look the same, so i figure i should be able to use the axles to.

I'd call the passenger side probably ok, but I'd call the driver's side too short.

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Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy

Maybe you could mount them up, and unsnap the CV boots and see how the joints look. Repack the joints and clip em back up if they look good. Sounds like the only real way to know for sure.

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dont known if i still know what i'm looking at if i were to do that since i dont have a manual for the teg motor. or if it even goes into that kinda of detail.

The axle should be pulled all the way through the hub, then you should have about 1/8 to 1/2 an inch of play in the axle after the axle nut is tightened down.

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Originally Posted by Vanilla Sky

I'd call the passenger side probably ok, but I'd call the driver's side too short.

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so i will move the engine over 1/4" lol or i will find some 4dr ls axles


as far as the engine goes, its going to be straight with the axles, my suspension mods dont permit alot of travel, maybe 1-1.5" down and 2-3"- up at the most, its stiff.

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Originally Posted by Legend_master

The axle should be pulled all the way through the hub, then you should have about 1/8 to 1/2 an inch of play in the axle after the axle nut is tightened down.

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hokay, thats the info i was looking for, well see how long these last lol..

1/8 to 1/2 an inch of play?? isn't that a little close? i'm sure the engine would shift at least 1/8 under heaving cornering.... no? or did i read that wrong?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vector

hokay, thats the info i was looking for, well see how long these last lol..

1/8 to 1/2 an inch of play?? isn't that a little close? i'm sure the engine would shift at least 1/8 under heaving cornering.... no? or did i read that wrong?

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My numbers might be wrong, but the engine moving is why you need play in the axles. THat is the exact reason my axles blew up, they were stretched to there limits and snapped at 70mph down the HWY (big mess). When I say play I mean play between the hub and the tranny. Is that what you are talking about?

well yea, only way you can check that is to push them back through the hub when they are in the tranny..... when they are out, its not stretching the boot any.... i measured it, so its probably ok.... just all in the positioning of the engine... if i nail that, then technically i shouldnt have any problems....

thanks for the replies.... sittin here before going wtf, someone else had to have had a similar question...

ps i did search, but kept turning up blank page that siad it was done.... weird.

tanks for the help, i will keep updating swap thread under performance/general engine swaps,
i have more pics there and here, you would be able to see how i have the engine sitting in the bay , i think i did a good job of lining it up

I dont know if you read my b-swap thread, but this is what I used.

Passenger: 87-89 Integra Passenger Side Axle (A little long, but it works)
Driver: 90-93 integra ends mixed with 89 Passenger side accord axle inner shaft.

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Originally Posted by Legend_master

I dont know if you read my b-swap thread, but this is what I used.
Passenger: 87-89 Integra Passenger Side Axle (A little long, but it works)
Driver: 90-93 integra ends mixed with 89 Passenger side accord axle inner shaft.

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ya... there was one person on here that siad they did it just using the axles that came with the motor. guess its time to do some more experimenting.

i just don't want to prolong this swap more than it already has been due to shitty weather and other people getting me to fix there cars lol...

another q i have which is kind o/t, but does anyone have a pic of the front of the engine in the car, i wanna see how the mount is shaped. i found pics of the side mounts and back, but not the front for some reason.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vector

ya... there was one person on here that siad they did it just using the axles that came with the motor. guess its time to do some more experimenting.

i just don't want to prolong this swap more than it already has been due to shitty weather and other people getting me to fix there cars lol...

another q i have which is kind o/t, but does anyone have a pic of the front of the engine in the car, i wanna see how the mount is shaped. i found pics of the side mounts and back, but not the front for some reason.

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I dont have a front mount, are you wondering how the factory one looks?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Legend_master

I dont have a front mount, are you wondering how the factory one looks?

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???? no front mount.... soooo are you just using 3 mounts.... what about the dogbone.. i think i'm gonna utilize the front mount since i want to make sure the engine doesn't go no where.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vector

???? no front mount.... soooo are you just using 3 mounts.... what about the dogbone.. i think i'm gonna utilize the front mount since i want to make sure the engine doesn't go no where.

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Nope I removed the dogbone aswell. I plan on building a front mount using the stock integra mount and a custom built location on the front beam.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/a010bb6a.jpg

i could probably save ya some time with the front bracket, i take some pics of what ever i end up with once i've made it lol

love the vid to btw, how accurate is the speedo in that thing with the different transmission.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vector

i could probably save ya some time with the front bracket, i take some pics of what ever i end up with once i've made it lol

love the vid to btw, how accurate is the speedo in that thing with the different transmission.

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With the 15's and the new motor I am only off by about 1 or 2 MPH according to those things they put on the side of the road that says you are speeding. They only thing is that sometimes over 45MPH my speedometer starts wobbeling. I think I need a new cable or a I need to lube the old one.