help rehooking vacume lines and trouble shooting after head job

i took my head off to get some work done to it, i removed my intake manifold and just took the head off, i never fully unhooked the intake manifold. in the process i broke the vacume lines that go to the thermostat housing and i broke the vacume lines that go to these white looking mushroom looking things that are under the air box next to the timing belt, what do these things do and how crutial are thay, when i cran my car i can hear the compression comming out the headers, i got the spark and i triple checked the timing. i am gonna try pouring cas or carb cleaner in the carb to see if that will work. one time when i was craning one of the vacumme lines that was not hooked up squrit some gas out really fast, but now i hooked that up, help, any ideas will help me out

Wow. That really sux. Got any friends with a carbed 3Gee that will drive to your place and let you look at their vacuum lines while you fix your car? Or, you can yank the vacuum hell out and do a Weber conversion.

VACUUM HELL!

i really wanted to do a webber convershion but i am doing a vtec b seires conversion in the spring so it will be a waste of money

hey hondavtec,
PM or IM me if you need parts. i can send them to you tomorrow if you want. I have spare accord sitting with all the parts.
about the price, we talk about later.

i need mega help, for some reason i think the timing got something to do with it. i belive i had it set right. i put the flywheel timing mark on position with the #1 piston tdc, i put the cam gear on timing to its tdc point, and the rotor points to the #1 piston on the cap at this point so my timng should be set right?

The tongue of the rotor points to around 2 o'clock.
Right, what's the problem then?

my toung on my rotor is more around 6 0clock, i think there are 2 different distributors. my rotor cap labels the cylender number on it, and the tongue pointing arounrd 6 oclock is the #1 piston

is tha vacuum advance line hooked up to manifold vacuum?

Also make sure you don't have a manifold vacuum leak or any vacuum leak for thet matter.

do you know what kind distributor you have?
is it hitachi or Toyo?
hotachi has igniter inside and toyo has it outside.
and when distributor rotor points at #1 cylinder it is not at 6 o'clock.
if it is at 6 o'clock than you turned your distributor 180 deg. take it out and turn it 180 deg. don't turn the cam.

maybe ill check taht, i tihnk its the one that begins with the h, ill get a pic later todat, if i turned it 180 then the imput for my spartplug wires would be cackwards. the position my rotor is pointing to is the same position that my cap has labeled for the #1 cly

Quote:

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Originally posted by h0ndavtec
my toung on my rotor is more around 6 0clock, i think there are 2 different distributors. my rotor cap labels the cylender number on it, and the tongue pointing arounrd 6 oclock is the #1 piston

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here is my funny looknig diagrams, its the best i could do, i am at work right now i double check when i get back home but this is what i rember it looking like

I think 1 and 3 are swapped in u pic. Anyway, the rotor tongue should be pointing between 12..1 o'clock. I don't see how the distributor can be turn around (bc of the mounting brackets)! But if you had the distributor apart maybe u put back the coupling piece {the one with lugs that couples with the cam shaft) 180deg off. According to the service manual, there should be index marks on both the coupling piece (groove) and distr. housing.

my 1 and 3 are on the wrong place, i just had my cousin take sum pics with his digi cam so ill show you once his wife gets off the computer and he loads the pics to a disc. so either way my distb should be inbetween 12 and 1? if so then when everythnig els is tdc the rotor will not be on the # 1 piston it will be on the #2 whick might make some since seeing that the 2 and 3 pistons will be the ones that are open, no wait, the spark should be on he close piston so it will make the combustion, so the rotor should be on the #4 piston? i am confused

you cant install the ditributor the wrong way... the fork that mates with the camshaft only goes in one way.. you'd have to force the distributor on to get iti to go in the opposite way.

here is the distributor i got

take the cap off and turn the engine to TDC. leat us see where is the rotor.

Quote:

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Originally posted by h0ndavtec
my 1 and 3 are on the wrong place, ...
... so either way my distb should be inbetween 12 and 1?

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You got me here. Maybe it shouldn't but make sure:

• plug #1 wire where the tongue points to (flywheel and cam shaft set to TDC)
  From #1 imagine the tongue turns clockwise so plug successively #3,#4,#2 wire in the cup.

Provided that u made the #1,#3 swap, does ur car start now?

i just mislabeled it when i was drawing the picture.

on the distributor going clock wise starting from the top the order goes 4 2 1 3
on the head from left(dist) to right(tbelt) what is the correst order for the pistons, i have been told it was 4 2 3 1 but i am not sure

then the fly wheel and cam are on TDC the rotor is on #1 on the cap

basicilly i nned to know the correct piston number order

Quote:

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Originally posted by h0ndavtec
on the head from left(dist) to right(tbelt) what is the correct order for the pistons,

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4,3,2,1
That 's what is on my car and any service manuals I've seen so far ( although I bet 1,2,3,4 might work as well :D).

is this how my wire setup should look whith my head and block at TDC?

Right, have u tried it like that?

no, i am at work riht now but that is not how i have them set up so ill have to fix that

Oh you wired the wires to the wrong cylinder... K I see now.

I think your distributor is tec.... it's a tec distributor if it has the igniter on the outside of the distributor. (Silver metal case)

update.... my wires were correct???? i just found out that i had a blown fuse that went to my ecu, no as soon as i get a battery charger or a jump ill try to get it running