Please Help Me Go Faster

I recently purchased an 89 accord coupe with a 2.0 fuel injected with a 5- speed. i am going to race this car on a 3/8 mile dirt track. i am not new to racing but i do not now hardly any thing about accords or any imports, prior to this i raced a dodge neon, i actully won one time with it but only once and i am tired of getting beat by hondas, so if you cant beat 'em join 'em and i bought a honda. i was looking for info on my car and found this website you guys seem pretty knowledgeable. i was wondering if any one could maybe give me a list of cheap performance mods, tweaks, tunes or any thing to make my car go faster. any advice or input would be greatly apprieciated. but please remember that i do not know alot about imports so please try to explain it good. I believe the car is an lx-i? anybody with info please help Thank you.
Kenny
[email protected]

sorry i forgot a few things i also need to strip out the engine bay and was wondering if anyone could tell me what i need and what i dont need because right now it looks like a jungle.

ok if you want to go to go fast you will need to strip the whole car...just leave like your seat...that saves you around 60-70 pounds easy. then under the engine bay take out power steering, air conditioning unit and hoses, cruse control....thats another 80-90 pounds. so now you are like 180 pounds lighter and the engine will go faster with less accessories running off it.

how much mechanical proficiency do you have? and what is your budget for this?

Thanks for helping, ya i have to put a cage in it in order to race. Any engine mods that you know of?

So what are the rules for racing on a dirt track. Like limits on the motor, mods, car weight, ETC....?

I am a industrial mechanic kind of a tite budget but am willing to spend a few bucks. its just that im used to american made cars. I consider myself pretty good with a wrench

no limit on car weight I cannot bore my motor or put a turbo on it also it has to be the original motor for the car. But as long as everything looks stock i can get awy w/using it im allowed aftermarket air filter http://www.penncan.com/fourcylinderrules.htm

Basically it just has to look stock

Try a reground camshaft.

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Originally Posted by Kfreder

no limit on car weight I cannot bore my motor or put a turbo on it also it has to be the original motor for the car. But as long as everything looks stock i can get awy w/using it im allowed aftermarket air filter http://www.penncan.com/fourcylinderrules.htm

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Well you could have your Throttle body sent to Maxbore, and have them bore it larger. You would then need to port match and polish the inside of the stock intake manifold. You could have colt or delta regrind you a cam. The problem you will have is that you need to get a better flowing exhaust, and I dont know how to make that look stock :dunno: .

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Originally Posted by Legend_master

Well you could have your Throttle body sent to Maxbore, and have them bore it larger. You would then need to port match and polish the inside of the stock intake manifold. You could have colt or delta regrind you a cam. The problem you will have is that you need to get a better flowing exhaust, and I dont know how to make that look stock :dunno: .

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he can run a test pipe with a cat shell welded on it. he could also port the exhuast so it flows a lil better. 4th gen map sensor also.

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Originally Posted by MessyHonda

he can run a test pipe with a cat shell welded on it. he could also port the exhuast so it flows a lil better. 4th gen map sensor also.

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Thats a good idea, but Im not sure he could ever port the exhasut manifold the amount he needs it to flow. It would definitly help though.

I can run open exaust w/no cat but i cannot run headers. i read that using a 3,500 ohm resistor in your air temp sensor will increase horsepower? Also what about air filters, fuel pumps, plugs, wires, coil,which are the best? i can strip everything out of the engine bay that i dont need, but i dont know what everything is. i just need to keep the minimum amount of stuff in order to run/drive. you guys sure know your hondas

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Originally Posted by Kfreder

I can run open exaust w/no cat but i cannot run headers. i read that using a 3,500 ohm resistor in your air temp sensor will increase horsepower? Also what about air filters, fuel pumps, plugs, wires, coil,which are the best? i can strip everything out of the engine bay that i dont need, but i dont know what everything is. i just need to keep the minimum amount of stuff in order to run/drive. you guys sure know your hondas

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Does it have to be a factory style filter or can you replace the filter and piping? Yes the resistor trick works, but I'm not sure how much HP you get from that. You can get a walbro 255 pump, just get bigger plug wires, and some NGK plugs. I know they have some performance coils, but I dont know what company they are. Take out cruise control, air conditioning, and power steering. You will need to fill the rack up with Power steering fluidand route the power steering hoses back into the rack, so it doesnt leak out.

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Originally Posted by Legend_master

Well you could have your Throttle body sent to Maxbore, and have them bore it larger. You would then need to port match and polish the inside of the stock intake manifold. You could have colt or delta regrind you a cam. The problem you will have is that you need to get a better flowing exhaust, and I dont know how to make that look stock :dunno: .

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you can port the exhaust side of the head. the exhaust manifold openings are usually a bit larger than the ports in the head. you can gasket match the head ports and get a better flow out of them. and dont forget to cut the valve guides too.

also, do they check tire/wheel sizes against the different accord models, or just check accord? i believe the lx-i wheels are a larger diameter than the lx/dx. a smaller diameter wheel/tire will give you quicker acceleration. your top speed drops off a bit, but i really dont think that will come into play on a 3/8 mile track.

ok .. since money is an issue .. are u able to get a sponser .. ive done some dealins with sponsers before , so if ur interested i could give u some tips

what are u allowed to do? , what are your limits?

Not being able to run a header is going to seriously limit the effectiveness of any other mods. Head work won't be of much value with the factory exhaust manifold. If you do any work on the head, just get a good 3-angle valve job and leave it at that. Could maybe also mill the head to bump up the compression ratio.

There are actually two types of exhaust manifold. One is a 4-1 design and the other is a 4-2-1. The 4-1 runs all the primary tubes down to a single collector, while the 4-2-1 runs the primaries first to 2 tubes, and then down to 1. You might get some advantage from the 4-2-1 over the 4-1. With the 4-2-1, separate the down pipe from the manifold and bore out the manifold side where it narrows down to match up with the downpipe. For some reason the casting is really thick here and has lots of restriction. You could also maybe bore out the collector in the down pipe for some extra flow.

A mild reground cam would be good for a little extra get up too.

C|

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Originally Posted by cygnus x-1

There are actually two types of exhaust manifold. One is a 4-1 design and the other is a 4-2-1. The 4-1 runs all the primary tubes down to a single collector, while the 4-2-1 runs the primaries first to 2 tubes, and then down to 1. You might get some advantage from the 4-2-1 over the 4-1.


C|

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He said that it is an 89 so it should have the 4-2-1 manifold and the two stage intake.

Youve been PM'd

Thanks for helping guys we stripped the whole car out on fri. waitin on a cage.

Stock exhaust manifold with the 4-2-1 design is actually pretty good i've still got mine and have upto 200bhp still using it, but you will need to port and polish the inside of it but it's well worth the gains, then just have custom pipe fitted to the cast header and straight out the side open. 4th Gen map sensor, adjustable fuel pressure regulator although you might have to hide it somewhere, non resistor plugs, camshaft, headwork, flowed and polished inlet manifold, bored out TB, Custom cold air intake, shave some off the head if you have it worked on, if your pretty good with hands then doing a DIY head job shouldn't be that hard if you have the tools. I reckon you should be able to achieve about 150-160bhp with stock looking engine maybe a little more if you do a good job on the head and can get the fuel mixture running good.

from looking over that site it looks like your gonna have to get a fuel cell as well...no gas tanks past the rear axle?? kinda gay. no battery relocation..their pretty strict lol.

woah doors must be welded or chained shut...hard core lmao.

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Originally Posted by 2drSE-i

from looking over that site it looks like your gonna have to get a fuel cell as well...no gas tanks past the rear axle?? kinda gay

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arent our tanks in front of the rear axle? the spare tire well is behind it for sure, but i thought the tank was more amidships.

um...well now that you mention it im not quite sure. I know that there is a service hole in the trunk for our gas tank....