Crank pully will not come off.

Hello All,

First I must say this is one bad ass board!! Ok now to the important stuff. I am trying to replace my timing belt but I can not seem to break loose the crank pully bolt. I have the pully locked down and I have already broke my belt wrench (before i bought the pully holder wrench) and now I have sheared off my breaker bar. Any help? I am borrowing an electric impact tomorrow but wanted to see what you all say. Thanks

89 Accord DX Hatchback
200K miles
Just bought it a month ago.

David in Tampa

I use a cordless battery impact, but you may want to try it on as low a setting as possible... if you are using a regular electric or air operated impact. too much too quick could be real bad news. Use a six point socket too.

+1 on the 6 point.

I had to use air to get mine off, and it needed about 100psi with my shitty impact gun. Its definitely the most difficult bolt on the car. You might also spray it down with penetrating lube a few hours before you try breaking it free. Not super likely to help, but you never know if rust or something is causing it to bind.

Quote:

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1. Use a 17mm socket on a breaker bar.
2. Put it on miserable crank bolt.
3. Put car in 5th gear.
4. Tow car backwards 5 feet with another car.

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lol you would

My first try at breaking that bolt years ago, I broke both 1/2 breaker bar & impact socket. Long story short, we didn't have an impact driver or compressor. SO, we stepped it up a notch. I ended up using 3/4" drive extension, on a 17mm six point socket, had the extension resting on a 4x4 block. Then with a 3/4" drive breaker bar, it had about a 3 1/2 foot cheater bar on the end of it. Father-in-law had a huge flat headed screw driver holding the flywheel (through inspection hole) with all he had. I'll never forget that day. :Owned:

Today, I use air impact drivers hitting 750 lbs. of torque.

Actually I think it's the second most difficult fastener on the car, with the first being the giant nut on the hub. I had to cut one off with a dremel because it was so tight.

Definitely by far the easiest way to get the crank bolt off is with a huge impact wrench.

C|

ya even with my motor on a stand it was a bitch getting off i think i ended up using like a half can of lube spry and had some one hold a wrench on one of the flywheel bolts and i used a cheater bar on a socket on the pully bolt it finally broke free though lol

everyone in vest in a can of wurth rost off ice
it is just bloody awesome of solid and rusted fasteners

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Originally Posted by ddude2uc

My first try at breaking that bolt years ago, I broke both 1/2 breaker bar & impact socket. Long story short, we didn't have an impact driver or compressor. SO, we stepped it up a notch. I ended up using 3/4" drive extension, on a 17mm six point socket, had the extension resting on a 4x4 block. Then with a 3/4" drive breaker bar, it had about a 3 1/2 foot cheater bar on the end of it. Father-in-law had a huge flat headed screw driver holding the flywheel (through inspection hole) with all he had. I'll never forget that day. :Owned:

Today, I use air impact drivers hitting 750 lbs. of torque.

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dam, that sounds like vw bug rear axle nut tackle... I have used a six foot cheater bar on those.. lol

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Hauntd ca3 Re: Crank pully will not come off.

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everyone in vest in a can of wurth rost off ice
it is just bloody awesome of solid and rusted fasteners

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thats wild, after being in this biz a quarter century I only recently was introduce to Wurth products , and now all inside a few weeks I have got endorsements on them... they do have an amazing product(s)

Well thanks. I will try all of these methods and if one of them works I will let you know. I just glad it was very difficult for everyone else, I thought I was going crazy. By the way, I tried the 1/2 impact wrench (electric) no can do. One quick question.....it is standard threads correct? ccw to remove?

Dave

yes ccw

a18a: i've thought of using the starter to break it but unfortunatlly it goes the wrong way, but have you actually done that? the towing it backwards that is

no I havent yet. I am going to try a larger breaker bar tomorrow. Odd though the previous post said its 17mm but it is 19mm on the 89 accord.

ive never done it, just doen a quick search and saw it lol, i think the starter would be a bit weak anyway

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Originally Posted by dawlfandave

Odd though the previous post said its 17mm but it is 19mm on the 89 accord.

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I took a guess, but it has a 19 mm bolt. I was going to put my adjustable cam gear on & my impact is going out. So looking to upgrade to this one.

http://i1.ebayimg.com/03/i/03/0b/b5/48_1_b.JPG

Ingersoll Rand 2135Ti Air Impact Wrench

Specifications:
# Drive-1/2"
# Torque range-50-600ft lbs/68-814Nm
# Max. Torque (forward) 625ft lbs/848 Nm (Reverse) 1,000 ft lbs/949 Nm
# Blows per minute 1250
# Free speed 9500 rpm
# Standard bolt capacity 9/16"/14mm
# Net weight 3.95 lbs/1.79kg
# Overall length 7.34"/186.4MM
# Avg. Air consumption 5.0 cfm/142 l/min @Load 24 cfm/680 l/min
# Air inlet 1/4"
# Minimum hose size 3/8"/10mm
# 1,000 ft.-lbs. of nut busting torque

mine 17/18 it's not 19 for sure wonder why it varies...
the starter would tighten it rotating ccw don't try! probably break somthin
i think it was subarus you could do that with

any way if you can't get to an impact use the cheater bar and wack it about in the middle with somthing heavy just make sure it's on the bolt good

The 88-89 A20A3 crank bolts are 19mm and the rest are 17mm. Not sure why but that's what I saw at the junkyard.

Recently I needed to pull some crank pulleys (for the crank fired ignition project) from the junkyard and my cordless impact wrench was useless. The best way I found was to put the socket wrench on the bolt and let it hang straight down. The use a 3ft pipe and smack the wrench. It's scary and kinda hard on the ratchet but it works. If you do this be very careful not to hit the car with the pipe. Not worried about body damage at the junkyard.

C|

that's why duh my engine is a bt i keep forgetting!

If anyone knows of a impact driver that hits over 1,000 ft. lbs. of nut busting torque in the 1/2" range, let me know. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ddude2uc

I took a guess, but it has a 19 mm bolt. I was going to put my adjustable cam gear on & my impact is going out. So looking to upgrade to this one.

http://i1.ebayimg.com/03/i/03/0b/b5/48_1_b.JPG

Ingersoll Rand 2135Ti Air Impact Wrench

Specifications:
# Drive-1/2"
# Torque range-50-600ft lbs/68-814Nm
# Max. Torque (forward) 625ft lbs/848 Nm (Reverse) 1,000 ft lbs/949 Nm
# Blows per minute 1250
# Free speed 9500 rpm
# Standard bolt capacity 9/16"/14mm
# Net weight 3.95 lbs/1.79kg
# Overall length 7.34"/186.4MM
# Avg. Air consumption 5.0 cfm/142 l/min @Load 24 cfm/680 l/min
# Air inlet 1/4"
# Minimum hose size 3/8"/10mm
# 1,000 ft.-lbs. of nut busting torque

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S&K PRo Gun
1200 ft lbs nutbusting torq, "unparallelled in the industry"
SKT92135
Air Cat
ACA1000-TC
1000 lbs loosening torq, 200p800 working torq
lightweight 4.5 lbs


my cordless el cheapo goodyear 1/2 inch worked well on the crank bolt, back when it was new. There are Milwaukee cordess that cost a bit more that work super good.

My Dewalt cordless is supposed to be rated for 300lb-ft, but I'm not so sure.

C|

lol i had to remove the motor/ tranny from the car, put a nut inbetween the flywheel and the transmission housing on the block, then took a biiig breaker bar and viola (automatic cars are the worst...)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Demon1024

mine 17/18 it's not 19 for sure wonder why it varies...
the starter would tighten it rotating ccw don't try! probably break somthin
i think it was subarus you could do that with

any way if you can't get to an impact use the cheater bar and wack it about in the middle with somthing heavy just make sure it's on the bolt good

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you can use the starter, or just put it in second gear and rock the car with the breaker bar placed in a position where it will stay put on the bolt. Make sure you have the bar on the side of the crank where it will not swing around, but stay wedged. Disable the ign so it does not run before you do this folks !!

wow, 1000 ft lbs on an impact, that would pick you up off the ground IF YOU COULD HOLD ON.. serious tackle there... lol

I finally got it off. THanks for all of the info. Now one more question. First a little more info....
When I got the car it would crank but the cam was not turning. I found the timing belt with the cogs ripped off. So I now have removed the crank pully I have put a new timing belt on and tried to crank it, with no sparks because I think I have too much fuel in the oil (changing it tomorrow), it cranked good and all of the valved seemed to be moving. Question is if the valves were bent would the cam turn at all? I have read many threads about the battle between the interference and non interference issues.
THanks

If you happened to bent some valves, the cam will turn but you won't have any compression. Rarely does that happen. No spark? Look to the coil, distributor, reluctor, pickup, plug wires, rotor.

How did you end up breaking the crank bolt loose?