89 Honda Accord loud popping sound

for about 2 weeks now i cant get on my gas peddal and go :(. I have to ease onto the gas because my car makes a loud popping noise from under the hood. I thought it might have been the fuel injectors not putting out enough fuel to the engine causing the pistons to bang against the inside walls, Not true thank god :). So today i decided to have my brother in law get on the gas a little and around 3,000 rpm the car made the sound the loud sound again i found out where its comming from and its the air intake. The throttle body i guess would be more correct but i took off the air filter and bam he reved it and my ear drum nearly exploaded. Does anyone know what this could be please help me I want to see my car get up and go once again.

Sincerly Levon

not sure, a valve or valve timing problem, or ignition or ignition timing.

Could you descripe the popping noise? Sounds like a possible valve timing issue to me.

it sounds like a backfire from a car exaust but from the air intake. Its not pushing air out but sucking it in and popping. Forgot to mention when i drive and try to get up it stumbles really bad on acceleration. If i ease on the gas it wont do it only a sudden thrust to the floor and bang bang here comes the outlaws with horses and all :). You guys are the best for sure i have to put 3geez.com on my car some where, Thank you for the quick responses im watching a movie and looked at the screen to my amazment theres two replys within like 5 minutes thank you so much.

Yeah, a new post at night gets quick responses.

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...ght=valve+lash

That's the how-to on checking valve lash. While it won't show what's happening inside your motor, you can see if there are any issues with your valves from the top.

You may also want to check your timing belt. There's a decent chance that it's slipped and you're either slapping the valves with your pistons or you're backfiring.

The best manual is the one provided by Honda. It can be spendy, so one of our older members was so gracious as to scan the entire manual so that we could have a free digital archive. That is available here: https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25137

thanks so much your a great help i have the hynes repair manual but it doesnt tell me what the clearance should be for the car. Sounds kinda dumb but its true. I have to check the hyper links you posted i booked marked the one for the valve clearance just need to check the other

sounds like a miss fire to me
take the big intake tube off from the throttle body or topoff the air cleaner for carb car and see if you can get it to fault again
if it pops a flame out the carb/throttle body you have a big timing prob .
could be the timing to far advanced and it firing before the inlet valve is not closed
poss the cap, rotor ,leads and plugs all need replacing and timing set.
if the valve clearances are to tite it wouldnt run well at all
try 18 thou inlet and 20 thou exhaust
these are generally not to far off for most engines altho they could be 12 inlet 16 ex.
could be any of a dozen things eh dude
go thru and check the ign system first off and work from there

Yeah it sounds like a timing issue to me as well. Could also be a vavle clearance issue.

all good information ^^^
On the fuel side, fuel starvation makes cars backfire thru the intake/carb/throttle body
In that case, fuel filters, puimp, contaminated fuel, stuck egr (on V6)

great i now adjusted the valve to exaust .010 and intake .006 and guess what i tryed to start my car and its all screwed up i cant start it :P so tomarrow i need to mad scientist the valves again and see how i screwed up. aright guys thank you for the replies hopfully i can get it to start tomarrow and then check the egr and the fuel pump maybe im loosing some kind of pressure. This is good that im trying to adjust the valves any how because i was hearing a slight tapping from this area. (oh i figured it out the head is inside the car still and i was trying to line the gear up to the ground and so on so forth. ill get it right soon) wish me luck Thank you once again

Sincerly Levon

still cant figure out how to delete posts

Did you put each cyl on it's tdc when you adjusted the appropriate tappets?
Number one cyl is the one fartherest from the transmission.
I adjust mine at .007 and .011. You really need some good light shining on that tappet clearence when you drag the feeler guage thru there, make sure you are holding the feeler gauge flat across the valve stem top and not at an angle. It should slide easliy but with slight drag, not enough to leave a mark really on the feeler guage in other words.
Those other specs do not sound right at all for tappet adjustments.

Valve lash specs are in the book and on the sticker on the inside of the hood. I would go by that first.

Might have to verify that you have god compression numbers after you get the valves lashed correctly and the timing belt back on as well.



wp

The problem was that the #3 spark plug wire was off thanks guys for all the input..

Levon