So the user guyhatesmycar says the Rustoleum fades and what not after a week. Can anyone else verify that. If the rustoleum is junk is there any other U.S. alternatives that work good? By the way how do you wetsand? I've never done it.
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So the user guyhatesmycar says the Rustoleum fades and what not after a week. Can anyone else verify that. If the rustoleum is junk is there any other U.S. alternatives that work good? By the way how do you wetsand? I've never done it.
wetsanding is simply sanding under runnin water. Sanding on a wet surface, just keep a running hose on hand and make sure the surface you are sanding on stays wet. As far as rustoleum, dunno maing.
Can I do it without a hose?:gun:
not really its easier with a hose but im sure you could use a bucket of waterQuote:
Originally Posted by bank2me
just be harder to do so
why are you painting somewhere you cant have a hose but you can paint
I am not sure why he would say that. I have done quite a bit of research on it and many have had it last well over a year (without doing anything to it). Several have had it last 5+ years with regular maint. Now if you want it to stay shiny and looking really good you will need to take care of it somewhat (wash/wax every so often). I did wetsand and I am using rustoleum "professional" (which some has said is a tougher paint then the standard rustoleum.Quote:
Originally Posted by bank2me
The paint is not even fully dry after a week. I am wondering what happened with his install? Did he buff it out/shine it up?
There is a lot of info out there about these paint jobs (google $50 paint job).
My site has a lot of info on my paint job
http://www.chrisrowland.com/honda1.htm
I haven't even gotten to the stage of buffing mine out yet and it is extremely shiny (and it has been on the car about a week) :>
So party how do you know when to buff? And for the mineral spirits did you mix them with the rustoleum before painting? I was told that the rustoleum should be as thin as water before painting do you know if that is true? Also what did you do about rust on your car before painting it? I figured I'd ask someone who has experience with this process Thanks in advance.:)
yes yes you can , you can do it with a hose, you can do it with a hose, I suppose even with you nose in a rose, sniff sniffQuote:
Originally Posted by bank2me
you can do it with a hose, yes you can sand with a hose, you can sand sand sand, all over the land.
or you could use a bucket, yes yes fuckit use a bucket, you can sand sand sand all over the land with a bucket, but please please use a little soap in the bucket, so you dont fuckit up, oh yes you must not get things under the sanding, it will scratch with the thatch, yes yes the thatch from the sanding, thatch thatch, scratch scatch
yes yes, don't be mean, keep the sandpaper clean, sing sing, don't be mean mean, don't scratch thatch scratch, it won't matter if you use a hose on your nose or even say fuckit use the bucket and nope don't forget the soap.
You chould use a squirt bottle with a little soap as well, but you'll have to make sure that the sandpaper is clean.
:rofl: :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
LOL it's the new wetsanding song!Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
:rofl: :bow:
ROFL HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHQuote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
I use spray bottles that I buy at the dollar store for wet sanding, and a bucket to rinse the paper in. And yes, without clearcoat or some other sealer, the cheap paint will chalk and oxidize very rapidly. It's cheap, remember? And I'll say it again, the cheap paints are not compatible with any automotive topcoat, and if anyone goes to do a real paint job after you've slathered your car in tremclad, it's gonna be a real mess.
So have you painted your car with this? The reason I ask is that there are quite a few that have, and many of them have had their paint jobs for several years without problems. If you have experience I would love to hear of it because I have only run across a few people in the past few weeks that have had issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by guyhatesmycar
I am not saying that this is the best way to paint a car but as you said above, it is cheap. As of right now I have a vehicle that I paid $850 for, I have put about a grand in it to fix problems, and I simply do not see paying another $1000 or more for a "quality" paintjob. The paint was degrading bad enough that something had to be done so this was (in my opinion) my best option.
I have never painted a car before and if I had tried to spray my car I am sure there would have been issues (I have sprayed stains and other wood finishes but never a car). If I ever decide to repaint the car then I will probably either sand it down to the metal, prime it, and spray it (I guess I could also sandblast it). I seem to recall that most automotive paints suggest that you use a specific primer with them so this step would be required anyways.
Rustoleum claims to have stuff in the paint to keep it from oxidizing and it has held up well on many of the metal things that I have painted it with. They also have UV inhibitors so that it should hold up to the sun (and this has been proven to me by various outdoor furniture that I have painted).
There are a lot of sites out there with a lot of information, most state that this is a good way to get a cheap, nice looking, paint job.
Once again I am not trying to bash or otherwise inflame here, I just want to know if you personally had problems with this system (esp since I have just painted my car with rustoleum).
Chris
i painted my car flat black about a year ago and it's still holding up fine.
Facts:
I have seen Maaco paint jobs that have come out real well and held up pretty good, but also have seen Maaco paint fade out but stays slick. It soaks up wax like a sponge and never gets a sheen. If you sand it , the paint just rolls up, if you try to paint over it the paint just lifts , sometimes it takes a while but it eventually will peel off.
That said, rustoleum does make a good product but it has to be simialr to the bulk paint that Maaco uses in some elemental makeup. The only way to get that paint to lay out is it has to be wet a long time so it can flow. The longer it is wet the more chance you get for trash,lint, bugs to get on it. True you can color sand it after it cures, and if you use soap it will help with the paint rolling up and with paint getting stuck in the sandpaper. If there is a rustoleum with an acrylic base you could possilby use a basic acryliic enamel automotive catylst hardner (or urethane converter) with it and cut it with a slow laquer thinner.. spraying it on of course.. and it would come out ok.. I painted a horse trailer like that and it came out good. Another alternative would be go to the auto paint store and politely ask if they have any mixed paint that was mixed wrong tint or customer never picked it up, you can get that half price or at least discounted sometimes.
Creds? I have worked in paint and body shops for years before I got the job I have now of running a fleet shop.
na the big problem with spray cans like rustoleum,is they just don't have the UV inhibitors in them. these keep the UV light from breaking down the paint and it chalking up. now if you buy a spray can of paint just for automotive use,, it is designed to hold up under those conditions. example is the duplicolor wheel paint. tough as shit,hard to even sand off,but it's designed for automotive use. paints like rustoleum are designed primarily for home use on household objects. i have to disagree on the 50 dollar paint job, i've read the entire thing and see a lot about it on the net, i think if you rattle canned it with a quality spray paint such as the duplicolor automotive paint, you could pull it off for around a hundred bucks, this includes all the materials for prepping it beforehand. thats still cheap.but i think the paint would hold up much better. they also make single stage duplicolor automotive paint in the half and gallon size. oreilies has them. if you are going to go through all the trouble, get a basic spray gun from someone like harbor freight and rent a smal compressor from a tool place for the day.
no kidding there, that duplicolor makes good stuff/
the wheel paint, man, that stuff is awesome even without using the clear coat that goes with it/ they have gallon paint too you can mix and spray
the duplicolr paint i'm talking about at oreilies, is automotive paint but it needs to be sprayed vs rattle can,it's single stage. probably still better then rattle can. way better then the dollar store paint cah used to spray his car.Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
I painted parts of my Toyota pickup with Tremclad a few years back, and have had mixed results. I should actually get around to taking pictures of it. Oddly enough, the worst areas are the front fenders which i stripped to bare metal (the previous owner just slapped them on out of the box and they were covered in a light layer of surface rust), then primed and painted with Tremclad products. If I remember correctly, I applied 2 coats of the primer, allowed flash +1hr for drying, lightly dry sanded, wiped with a dry cloth and then applied 2 full wet coats from the rattle can. The proper terminology for this half-assed paint job isn't for fun, but because I have painted before. Search some of my other threads.
I also repainted the inside of the box, the tailgate, and some spot repairs on (most of) the outside of the box. (Several times, I might add) Oh, and the previous owner had sprayed the entire truck with Tremclad before I got it. The paint on the inside of the box still looks OK in spots, but most of it is thrashed.
Either way, the result has been shiny for about a week, and then it begins to degrade. First it looses all sheen, then begins to completely chalk. After a year or so, rust begins pushing up from the back, uniformly over the entire area covered by tremclad alone. After 4 years, a lot of the sheet metal repair I've done is completely rusted through. A full wet coat of paint should have sealed that moisture out. Clearly the tremclad doesn't, despite a quality of application far above what tremclad probably expected it's product would receive.
I've also painted a wide array of heavy equipment, gates/fencing, motorcycles and other metal stuff with Tremclad and other types of paint (usually by spraying it with reducer or some sort of thinner.) Once again, the paint never seems to hold up for me. I used Rustoleum primer and paint on the fuel tank and suspension components on my car after sandblasting, so I guess we'll see there, too.
Edit: My opinion with the 50 dollar paint job is this: If you took all the time you spent recoating and wet sanding, and instead worked a little bit of overtime, you could do a proper prime/paint with 2k primer-sealer, rockguard, and a decent acrylic enamel topcoat with metallic, after buying all the tools and learning the techniques, and still have time left over. Oh, and a way better paint job, too.
yeah i spray painted my car and the car did look really good for the frist month or 2 then it started fadeing and thing on the top part of the doors roof hood and trunk started flakeing off ...
Couldn't have said it any better. :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by guyhatesmycar
yes guyhatesmycar you mentioned tractor , that reminded me. That tractor paint they sell at tractor supply works good , one of the guys at work was talking about how they used it on the dirt track car, brushed on, and it came out dam good, we also painted a Ford 3000 tractor with it, brush, and it looked like it was sprayed. That was about 2 years ago and the tractor still looks new and it stays out in the weather 24/7 no bullish
9.00 a gallon plus it comes in the same lots in spray cans for touch up and door jams:cheers:
colors are all tractor colors though including black... I think it is the same as the old synthetic enamel I forget what dupont called it I think dulux or something like that.The stuff dupont used in the enamel line before Centari... old school stuff right there
Yeah I remember the dupont dulux. I believe it was their lower priced quality line before the Nason Ful-cryl series came out. I've also used John Deere and Caterpillar paint, both in the gallon and spray can. It seems to hold up quite well.
