so my volfenhag amp has went into protect mode and weve checked everything and cannot figure it out, any help will be much appreciated, running 2 rockford frostgate 10" p1 punches 600 watts, amp is 800 watts
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so my volfenhag amp has went into protect mode and weve checked everything and cannot figure it out, any help will be much appreciated, running 2 rockford frostgate 10" p1 punches 600 watts, amp is 800 watts
did you check to see if the voice coils on the subs still good? sometime they cant strip the very thin insulation off and lower the ohms coming out {I.E. a 4ohm would suddenly be a 3ohmer.} or it could be a lead to the speaker cone that is now grounding out.
im taking for granted you checked all you connectors first. if its not that i couldnt really say with haveing my hands on it.
pretty sure my subs are not the prob since i plugged in a old pioneer i have and it doesnt work either, unles i just have 3 bad subs O.o
well test it with no sub hooked up if the protect light still lights up you most probably blew a power mosfet.
wait pioneer sub or ampQuote:
Originally Posted by mastaofdisasta
i hate ajny amp that has a protect mode lol
all amps should have is a fuse lol
protect mode is another bit or circuitry that can go bad with out it actually being bad
if i did blow a mosfet, is that easily fixable or is that like... a new amp? and its a volfenhag amp not a pioneer
no you said you used an old pioneer to test lolQuote:
Originally Posted by mastaofdisasta
if your good at soldering i mean real good then you might be able to fix it
other then that you might be able to contact the company that makes it and see if they do a repair service
but it might be cheaper to just get a new one
that sucks...want to buy mine?
I agree my 1,000 watt kenwood's protect mode always cuts it out, so i learned how to rig my own fuses and now it works fine, but if the fuse budges even a little i have to fuck with it for almost hours.Quote:
Originally Posted by ghettogeddy
ya time to go get a good amp and what are you running that you think you need 1K WATTS LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by 3Gee_Dub
i have a infinity 1052w 10" that i use a lighting audio 250 watt amp lol (only because it was free and the sub i got on ebay for 12 bucks shipped lol)
and it hits with out any probs
I have 2 memphis 10 ince subwoofersQuote:
Originally Posted by ghettogeddy
ya prolyl way to much power lol whats the model numbers on themQuote:
Originally Posted by 3Gee_Dub
it is too much power but it works with my rigged fuseQuote:
Originally Posted by ghettogeddy
well im looking at the spex for the memphis subs and moto and the m3 take about 500 rms 1k maxQuote:
Originally Posted by 3Gee_Dub
anything under that is 350rms 600 max and below depending on model
you want to hit the rms rang not the max so say you have 350rms x2
i would say a 500 or 600 rms amp should be great for it also the way you have them wired can make a huge differance
do you know the difference between parallel and serial when it comes to sub wiring
are the subs you have dvc of svc
I wired my subs myself they are bridged and ported i had a 450 watt amp and it wasnt enough, now the 1,000 is too much. but im happy with them the way they are untill i run into problems again.Quote:
Originally Posted by ghettogeddy
ya i would take the bridge off and run them on series
so i take it there single voice coil
Yup single voice coil, and thanks but when i take the bridge off wont it not be as loud?Quote:
Originally Posted by ghettogeddy
well depends on the components and how it sounds now lol loud as in boom or loud as in sound lolQuote:
Originally Posted by 3Gee_Dub
you can do a series bridge what its gona do is drop the ohms from the 2 ohms you have now with them bridged to
i had a pic but looks like i messed it up a lil lol let me find a better one
here it is
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...sbridge1ch.jpg
Thanks man yeah i understand. I'll do that tonight when im boredQuote:
Originally Posted by ghettogeddy
i put a different pic up lolQuote:
Originally Posted by 3Gee_Dub
Yeah but i understood what you were saying without the picture. I appreciate it, and now i have to call a few friends that let me bridge their subs for them hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by ghettogeddy
i guess you read up on it a lil lol
your gona loss a lil bump but the equpmint will love you lol
i have a 1200 watt sony and 2 sony p5 10"s
the amp was turned all the way down and still managed to hit hard as hell lol
and there still kickin lol i gave them to my buddy about 3 yrs back put them in his eldorado shit hits uber hard lol for a cheap setup most of the people on here woudl shit a brick for the sound to price ratio lol
Dont tell me its sony explode, i went through so much sony garbage in my previous cars. and yeah sterios arn't really that complicated, im a canadian forces weapons technician. So cars are kinda just a hobby, im still learning, im only 19 years old but I grew up around cars but they are my passion. if i could marry a car I would.Quote:
Originally Posted by ghettogeddy
i guess xplodes but i know what you mean with the xplode amps and suchQuote:
Originally Posted by 3Gee_Dub
but for some reason these subs have always treated me well
maybe its cause they have never been over powered always ran at higher ohms like 4ohms and 8hms i had them for about 3 years before giving them to my buddy so at least 6 years in service and it shocks the shit out of people that see whats in the trunk lol
after i gave him those i got a alpine type r 10 and a audiobahn a800t 800watt mono block
shit hit hard
but as my music taste changed form rap to metal so did my sound system lol plus the type r got stolen lol
the setup i have now surprised the shit out of me lol specially seeing as ai spent under 100 bucks for everything lol deck sub amp box and wiring lol
the mids/highs i have are polk audio db 5 1/4 front and rear
Not a bad price, i paid around $1,100 for my whole set up but my flip up moniter was stolen.Quote:
Originally Posted by ghettogeddy
