Bad TPS

aside from bad gas mileage, how bad is it to run with the TPS disconnected?
Mine has gone bad and with it unplugged the car runs better.
Any input will be appreciated

How do you know its bad?
It will run pretty inefficiently unplugged, the TPS and the MAP sensor determines your injector dwell and ignition timing according to load and throttle opening.

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Originally Posted by roodoo2

How do you know its bad?
It will run pretty inefficiently unplugged, the TPS and the MAP sensor determines your injector dwell and ignition timing according to load and throttle opening.

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I have it off at the moment and seems to be running better and I drove it on the street and freeway and it still seemed very responsive.
Just wondering if that could be a problem since it's idling better with it off.
I'll switch out my MAP sensor and see if that makes a difference

Status on this problem?

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Originally Posted by roodoo2

Status on this problem?

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Idles fine at 900rpm then drops for a second to about 800 or so and then idles back up.
I adjusted the TPS per your instructions using a OHM meter.
At least for the now Idle is somewhat better than before.

My check engine light is on for this on my 89 SEi. 7 blinks underneath the driver's side seat means TPS if i remember right anyway. I've been getting about 25mpg. I thought that it would be worth it to get a throttle body for it. Got one, switched it out(it was promised to have a good sensor) but the engine light stayed on and it still idles at about 2000rpm when you first start it then quickly slows to about 800 and then it idles fine at about 1500 or so with the A/C off. Should I whine about getting a TB with a bad sensor or look into other possible problems?

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Originally Posted by hewofmatt

My check engine light is on for this on my 89 SEi. 7 blinks underneath the driver's side seat means TPS if i remember right anyway. I've been getting about 25mpg. I thought that it would be worth it to get a throttle body for it. Got one, switched it out(it was promised to have a good sensor) but the engine light stayed on and it still idles at about 2000rpm when you first start it then quickly slows to about 800 and then it idles fine at about 1500 or so with the A/C off. Should I whine about getting a TB with a bad sensor or look into other possible problems?

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I cut slits in the rivets that hold the TPS in place and adjusted it to specs.
Here are the instructions on how to I got from Roodoo

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Originally Posted by roodoo2

you need is a digital volt meter. I can give you the wire color to test, it should read .05 volt idle (throttle closed) and it should gradually go up from there to about 5 volts at wide open throttle. Sometimes they get sloppy and send spike voltage and sometimes it is an open connection or no switching.
Think of it as like a volume knob on an old school stereo, like an old Pioneer or Marantz, the crackle crackle when the knob switch gets old and dirty inside.

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and if the TPS does munt out and send spike voltages will this cause an error code?

Thanks, nice white accord btw. Which wire is it? Even though it will be easy to find out with the meter anyway. Maybe I'm an idiot--well, some are pretty sure that I am-- but how do you adjust the tps to the right spec? I plan on doing this sometime in the next week.

you're lucky, when my tps fails the engine wont rev over 2000 rpm

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Originally Posted by AccordB20A

and if the TPS does munt out and send spike voltages will this cause an error code?

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Yes I beliieve it will, I used electrical contact cleaner to clean my old one out and luckily it worked out ok

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Originally Posted by A18A

you're lucky, when my tps fails the engine wont rev over 2000 rpm

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yeah i used to have that problem when i had terminal blocks holding the wires joined and the vibrations would make them fall off.

im still trying to locate the problem that makes my car bog like hell. and theres no error codes

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Originally Posted by picopop

Idles fine at 900rpm then drops for a second to about 800 or so and then idles back up.
I adjusted the TPS per your instructions using a OHM meter.
At least for the now Idle is somewhat better than before.

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I don't have EFI but my carb does the exact same thing. It will idle perfect, then the idle drops to about 800 and back up. I've checked everything, even a new coil, still same results.:thumbdn: