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Hey y'all,
I received a Integra from a relative who got fed up with fixing it all the time. He said he poured a whole bunch of money into it; and it still won't start when the engine is hot. The injectors and the distributor thingy were replaced recently. The car runs fine all the time (although the CEL is on). It just won't start when the engine is hot. Is this engine similar to the 3Geez's? If so, what should I check for. Thanks!
main relay? when you first turn the key to "ON" do you hear a humming sound from towards the back of the car for about 2 seconds? or hear a double click from in the dashboard area, then 2 seconds later hear another click?
Check the TW sensor. What codes is it throwing?
He we go again, what have you done thus far?
When say hot, middle of a hot day, after driving distance? Does it die out after getting hot?
What code is it throwing out?
Does it turn over or just click?
Does in have coolant?
Have you checked the oil level?
We need more info if we are to help you.
Sorry guys. My primary car is a 3g with a carburetor, so I don't know squat about fuel injection system. And I've only driven this Integra once. When I learn more, like how to check the code, I'll report back. It looks like I've a lot of learning to do.
>> He we go again, what have you done thus far?
Absolutely nothing. I drove it home this week. I drove it 300 miles across Texas; and it ran perfectly, except for the hot start problem.
>> When say hot, middle of a hot day, after driving distance? Does it die out after getting hot?
When I say "hot", I mean the engine is at operating temperature--like after being driven for half-an-hour at high speed. The car does not die out, ever.
>> What code is it throwing out?
I'll report as soon as I figure out how to check code.
>> Does it turn over or just click?
It turns over.
>>Does in have coolant?
Yes. It even has a new radiator. This Integra has lots and lots of new parts. Looks like to previous owner threw a whole bunch of parts at this and other problems.
>> Have you checked the oil level?
Yes. The engine burn a small bit of oil. It burned 1/2 quart during the 300-mile trip. Also, during cold start, I can see a bunch of white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe.
>>We need more info if we are to help you.
Thanks. You guys are the best. I'll give more info when I collect them. I'm also fixing damages to my house from Hurricane Ike; so please be patient.
:)
About how long until you can get it to start again. My reasoning is this. The main fuel relay on the accords have solder connections that crack and expand in the heat of the day loose the contact resulting in a no start. When it sarts to cool the connections contract and make contact again. Reulting in a start.
White smoke or white with a bluish tint, explantation white smoke is steam = H2o in the cylinder possible head gasket leaking.
Bluish smoke = oil in the cylinder possible leaky valve stem seals
About 15 minutes. If the problem is the fuel relay, shouldn't the engine die whenever it gets hot? In my case, the engine will run forever even when hot.Quote:
Originally Posted by nswst8
To read the ECU code, I've read that I'm suppose to short two wires under the glove box, and turn the key to the ON position. However, the CEL that I'm getting only comes ON after driving for a few minutes; and it goes away after I turn off the engine. Thus, I'm not getting any code.
The main fuel relay will be a module in the interior cabin somewhere. Ours is behind the dash above the fuse box almost at the top of the dash, its a PITA to get to.
The ECU has a memory module that you are trying to access to see codes are stored there. Just do as the instructions dictate and get back to us.
Scratch this ?
This is something that I found with google.
5th Apr 2006, 13:48
Your problem is the Main Relay.
Its the most common problem on these generations of Integras, with a simple replacement it will be the "reliable car" you wanted, oh by the way, I have 180,000 on mine, never a single problem, all depends on the care of the car.
Oh watch out for a leak into your passenger floor, it's a common problem too.
From what I've learned so far the main relay is located in the dash to the left of the steering wheel. A 10mm bolt holds it in place and should look brown in color. I haven't swapped mine out yet, but just found a few forums diagnosing the issue. My issue is that the car will turn over but won't fire if the interior of the car is warmer than 90 degrees. A few minutes with the windows down usually helps. From what I've read the main relay is a way to fix the issue. The actual issue is called the fuel pump relay which is built into the main relay so much more efficient to just change the main relay. I'll be doing mine tonight. Apparently it takes teensy tiny hands to get to this part so be ready for cuts and bruises.
I'm 99.999% sure it's your Main Fuel Relay. I just replaced mine (I also own a 1992 Integra) last week. They are notorious for going out. You probably noticed it acting up when it started getting warmer out, or if you had the floor heater on for a long time. I bought mine at Advanced auto parts. If you go there, don't ask them to look under a 1992 integra main fuel relay; they will give you the wrong one. I told them to reference a 1990 Honda Civic under Relays-Misc (they use the same relay). It's a BWD part. I'll edit my post when I get the part number from the receipt at my house. If I remember correctly it wasn't more than $60. Take the 3 trim screws out from your dash below the steering column. (kick plate by your knees). Make sure to take the ash try / coin holder out by pushing it to one side, then pulling it out; there is a third screw behind that. I think it's a 10mm or 12 mm socket to take out the 2 bolts on the left hand side for the metal plate (once you take off the plastic trim piece). Pull the metal plate down, you will see 2 relays mounted on top of one another, held on by one bolt. Take the MFR out, and plug the new one in. Shouldn't take more than 3 minutes.
Good luck!
Hope this answers your question.
yeah sounds like main relay mine stoped working on my acura legend i re-soldered it and its been working great since :)
I was able to read the ECU code. I read the following codes:
12 - EGR system
14 - Electronic Air Control
The previous owner told me he fixed the EGR valve last year. What the heck is the second one?
EGR valve could have been replaced but you could still have a clog in the recirc path.
Electronic control valve could probably need a cleaning, after cleaning mine the idle settled down abit.
Question: if my Main Fuel Relay is bad, then shouldn't the engine quit when it gets hot because the MFR doesn't work anymore, which leads to fuel pump quiting?
Dude, what is you malfunction! We are trying to help you here and you just don't want to acknowledge the answers.
IT IS OUR EXPERIENCE THAT A MAJOR RESPONSE TO A NO START UNDER HOT CONDITOINS IS A DEFECTIVE MAIN RELAY.
I found the info you asked for on the web in abundance, do some research.
Man, I'm sorry. I shouldn't have flamed on you like that. I understand your question but I don't have the answer to that picticular question.
Again, it is our experience that the problem you are experiencing is a defective main relay.
Good luck
the car wont cut out once it's running from a bad relay, unless you unplug it, or if it's REALLY fuckt, which i doubt. so yeah main relay
Ok folks. I shall go to Autozone tomorrow, buy a MFR, cross my fingers, and pray to god that it will fix the problem.
Is this the part: OE Part # 39400SH3003 (EFI Main Relay)?
You can jump it out to test it or use the one off the 3 g I think they are the same. Goolgle seatch the tech.auto site has it and I have posted it on here 2-3 times.
Usually it gives you the "no hot start condition" but I have never heard of it giving out while a car is running. It could be possible but it just does not fail in that form.
wp
Folks,
It was a failure. Both the Main Fuel Relay under the steering column and the coolant temperature sensor were replaced with new units. The problem is still there, exactly as before. Now what?
I'll keep looking. Was the relay a simple R/R is it possible that the contect didn't snap in correctly? Bent a pin on the relay.
Both spade pins on my low pressure switch bent in on my A/C and I didn't notice it until I reverted back to R-12
Everthing I'm finding is related to relay.
Won't start as in won't even crank, or it won't start as in it just cranks and cranks but won't start up? Need more specifics, but if these:
1. won't crank at all, either battery or starter could be bad. Start with battery as it's a $60 item. Starter is $200 item.
2. in cold, humid times, it cranks, but won't start up, then it could be your distributor and the rotor contacts have worn out. Distributor cap with rotor, about $50 and change the wires ($50 set of 4) while you're at it.
3. in hot weather, it cranks, but won't start up, then it might be your main fuel relay. The contacts crack over time and when it's too hot in car, the expansion causes the contacts to not touch, so you crank but no fuel is going into engine to start. Relay is about $90-120.
Try these three
