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I've searched and cant seem to find the right answer.
My pressure hose blew this morning on my way to work so I picked up a new hose to install.
Just how hard is it to get the new hose installed. I've read post where some of the members say it was a PITA.
But how hard can it really be?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
And disconnecting the P/S is not a option I want to go with.
I've done two. The first one was a serious pain. I did the second with the engine out, so it was relatively easy. The metal tubing on the end of the hose is what makes it tough. It's very kinked and weirdly formed and you have to thread all those angles through and around the steel lines (brake lines, PS lines, whatever they are) that run along the frame member at the back bottom of the engine well, above the rack.
I threaded from the top down, and there was a lot of swearing involved. Someone else on here suggested that it's easier if you thread bottom up. It's worth a try. If you figure out something brilliant, definitely let us know.
Good luck Pico!
so far this doesnt sound like it's going to be alot of fun.
Thanks for the input
I'm not so sure on these cars, but every p/s line I had to do change required me to use either a flare wrench socket (similar to crowsfeet) with a small extension on it, for the fitting at the rack. Also a stubby wrench helps too. Spray some PB Blaster on the fitting to the rack, it helps that fitting break lose.
got the flare wrenches, I just got back from the garage and looking at the hose. Going to get up early, drink my coffee and pop a couple 800mg Motrin tablets and get busy on the car. Sucks but it's got to be done, My Acura is overheating and I've got to get that fixed too.Quote:
Originally Posted by ddude2uc
going to replace all mine eventually with braided aeroquip PST hose, so this sounds like a lot of fun:hs: i'm rounting mine away from the manifold and going around the other way. hey on that busted hose, can you cut the metal ends off each end and send them here? I'm working on the fittings now, going to tig weld the original metal ends to pipe thread ends,then they can connect to the aeroquip lines.
yeah lost, I'll send them out to you.Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
I'm still debating if I'm going to work on it today or just wait till my next day off to do it. Your not in a rush for them are you?
no rush at all,going to be a while, just gathering the parts up.Quote:
Originally Posted by picopop
I was one of the ones who said feed it in from the bottom up. I have done mine twice. It was MUCH MUCH easier feeding the hose in from the bottom. The first time it took about two hours. The second time it was less than an hour. Since it had been ten years since the first time I can safely say it was like doing it for the first time all over again.
going to be fun fabricating all the hoses from scratch lol,but it will be worth it. really shouldn't be that bad, all you need to do it is the original ends so they can be welded to pipe thread bungs, then it's just cutting and fitting hoses and brackets. I saw a nissan once in the junkyard that had a metal resovoir, wish I could remember what it was, would be nice to have threaded fittings all the way to the pump. http://www.hrpworld.com/googlebase.c...action=product
Ditto the flare nut wrenches. If you've never changed it before it will probably be seized really good. You don't want to worry about rounding off the nut with a normal open-end wrench. Using a dead blow hammer to hammer on the far end of the wrench will probably be your best bet for jarring it loose. I'm becoming a bigger and bigger fan of hillbilly impact for just about everything. It gives you a level of control you just can't get any other way. I like to spray everything down with brake cleaner before opening it up, otherwise you risk getting a lot of road crud in the line (and all over you). I haven't used PB Blaster so I can't say.Quote:
Originally Posted by ddude2uc
im pretty sure a 1989-1994 nissan 240sx has a metal reservoirQuote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
It is a messy job from a P/S fluid standpoint. Did you know our reservoirs have a filter built into the bottom of them? According to the shop manual you're supposed to change it (the whole reservoir) any time you open up the system. It's under $40, I think, but I have exchanged my fluid out several times for various reasons and never knew about changing it. My mechanic said he's never seen one clog after 30 years of working on Hondas, but Honda did away with the filter/reservoir in 1990 and hasn't had one since. I wonder if a clogged or restricted filter could be the source of a variety of P/S problems. I did always wonder why the reservoir always looked half full even when I drained it.
i replaced mine, hardest part was making the bolt thread thingy line up to the rack to stick it on, that took ages :thumbdn:
Depending on which replacement hose you have. I bought mine through Advance discount online, aside from the line going to the rack its pretty straight forward. I just had to make a small adjustment the flared end. So it would mate better.
Fuel injected has a sensor, carb doesn't. About 1-2 hours tops.
Dang. I think you win a prize for that. I definitely need to replace my reservoir. I've been trying to figure out how to install an inline filter for some months now. I was having some trouble with my assist cutting out on deceleration. I changed my fluid (black and foul after 180k miles) and that has fixed it but I'd feel better knowing a good filter was in there. I'm also going to be replacing my fluid every 30k miles or so, just for more peace of mind.Quote:
Originally Posted by DBMaster
Thanks for catching that.
Just checked the pricing. A new reservoir is $50 from Majestic, assuming Honda still makes it. On second thought, I think I'm going to go scavenge a reservoir from the junkyard, tear it apart and see what that filter is made of. I suspect I'll be able to change the media without too much fuss. Clean up the tank, install a new filter and I'll be set for another 180k. Stay tuned for more...
why not back flush it? take it out and flush solvent backwards through it. i want to see how it's put together too, I suspect it's just like a dry sump oil tank. I want to replace mine with a metal nissan one, there probably isn't much difference between the two,most japanese automakers from the eighties used a system like it. I wonder if it has a pop out screen like the brake master cyl. most people don't realize the screen on the master cyl resovoir comes right out, if you replace a master cyl you pop it out and flush it and the resovoir cup with brake cleaner. I would assume you could do the same ith the power steering resovoir, brake cleaner is alcohol based and leaves no residue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
I'll bet that there is some provision for the filter to be bypassed if it gets clogged. I was looking at some "universal" tanks figuring one could use that with an inline filter. Our tanks have two returns and one inlet line. Maybe the two returns could be teed into the single return on a universal tank? Whatever media Honda used it looks like it takes up almost the entire bottom half of the tank. Have you noticed how even when the tank is empty it looks half full? Maybe it's just an optimistic tank! :)
I think the backflush idea might actually work just fine. If you guys try anything let me know. I am not sure how you would disassemble the tank because it seams to be "welded" at the seams.
I was just out looking at the setup, trying to figure out the circuit,anybody have a diagram? I know there are returns for the rack,which is low pressure, and somehow the cooler is tied into the system. also the speed sensor in the tranny has some sort of return if i'm correct. If I can figure out the circuit,i'll make my own tank. i already have one which might work, it was going to be a coolant resovoir before i made the new one, if you have removed the ac system you have a hole in the inner fender a tank can drop into.Quote:
Originally Posted by DBMaster
here's the diagram,it looks like the extra input is just the bypass from the speed sensor, if i remember right it's a centrifical valve like a govenor, it opens up more and more as the speed increases .bypassing the high pressure fluid back to the resoivoir. looks like the fluid exits the rack and goes through the cooler,then back to the resoivoir. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...-27_162314.png
It will be a dirty job, every location of the PS system on these cars is absolutley filthey if it has not been handled in a while. Caked up black tar stuff, get out the citrus degreaser and plenty of rags. Front crossemember below the pump and the rear around the rack is pretty dirty to work around.
It probably would not be a bad idea to replace everything while you are at it. Where exactly did it bust anyway?
right above the exh. manifold. Looks like it still the original hose in the car too, Unless the original owner I got the car from replaced it at one time.Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
Got the new hose from Napa the other day and I didnt want to work on the car on Thanksgiving so I'm calling in sick tomorrow to get it done
you know what the overall length of that hose is? was calculating future aeroquip hose costs. as far as i know thats the only high pressure hose. the rest can be standard aeroquip braided lines.Quote:
Originally Posted by picopop
I'll take a measurement on it and get back to you.Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
just found an old heavyweight army canteen,the one quart ones,so i now have my resevoir for the power steering. all it will take is a plate tig welded on the back and some pipe thread bungs. should hold more fluid in reserve,which means cooler fluid,and it's aluminum so it will radiate heat away from the fluid.
