86-87 pedals different to 88-89?

is there any difference between them, more specifically the acceleratoir pedal? i know the pedal part itself is different but i mean the leverage thing. dunno how to explain it, but i cant seem to get my accelerator cable adjusted right, i adjusted it to where there was no play, and then when i floor it, the throttle plate barely opens completely, but cause of the lack of free play the throttle doesnt return back to no throttle when i take my foot off & i have to put my foot under the pedal & pull it out for the revs to drop back down. so i adjusted it to where there was very minimal free play in the cable, then it works mint, but with my foot down the TB only opens about 70% open instead of 100%, so the car feels kinda sluggish when i floor it. the only things i can think of causing this is that the pedals are from a 86 and my cars a 89, I want to avoid replacing the pedals if possible cause that's a gay job lol. the cable itself moves very freely too. this setup worked mint in my other car but just now seem to have this problem.
any thoughts?

edit: actually after reading through my own problem, it sounds like it could be the cable has been stretched. is that possible?

it might be stretched but if you've adjusted it so is a wee bit of free play that part is all good.
there might be a diff pull ratio between the two diif pedal setups
by which i mean the distance between the pedal pivot and where the cable attaches might be diff. or the throttle barrel( the bit the cable goes round at the tb end ) might be of a diff radius or profile.
and are you sure the cable outer is anchored properly at both ends

Hey heres another question, i installed 89 pedals in my accord qwhen i did my manual swap and from then on in the cruise control stopped working

Maybe the brake switch is also different from the 86-87 and 88-89, Thats the only thing i can think it could be stopping the cruise from working, The break lights work tho.

Any ideas

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hauntd ca3

it might be stretched but if you've adjusted it so is a wee bit of free play that part is all good.
there might be a diff pull ratio between the two diif pedal setups
by which i mean the distance between the pedal pivot and where the cable attaches might be diff. or the throttle barrel( the bit the cable goes round at the tb end ) might be of a diff radius or profile.
and are you sure the cable outer is anchored properly at both ends

---

yeah that's what I thought, the cable is installed properly on the pedal & firewall & intake manifold, don't think there's anywhere else.

and yeah also my cruise control dont work (though ive never ever tested cruise control since 3 cars ago) i read somewhere that the pink wire from the auto shifter is supposed to be grounded, which it is, but still dont work?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AccordB20A

Hey heres another question, i installed 89 pedals in my accord qwhen i did my manual swap and from then on in the cruise control stopped working

Maybe the brake switch is also different from the 86-87 and 88-89, Thats the only thing i can think it could be stopping the cruise from working, The break lights work tho.

Any ideas

---

the brake switch has two circuits in a cruise car and i think the clutch switch on there has two circuits too

Well the wierd thing about the throttle cable on my car 88 lxi (fuel injection) is if your 3/4 way down the TB is actually 100% open. If you press it to the floor the is a feeling that "your really getting it" but there no differance in the TB just that you moved your foot another 1/2 inch and greater resistance. Its cantilevered under there if you look at the assembly screwed to the firewall inside the car. Its and odd Honda trick I have mentioned a few times nobodies really caught on. I would not be surprised its only in North American car only just to kinda razz us "lead" footed americans.

The official adjustment is the throttle cable should have some slack at idle so the TB dictates the idle not how tight the cable is. But I do check to make sure it 100% open on full throttle.


wp

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by A18A

yeah that's what I thought, the cable is installed properly on the pedal & firewall & intake manifold, don't think there's anywhere else.

and yeah also my cruise control dont work (though ive never ever tested cruise control since 3 cars ago) i read somewhere that the pink wire from the auto shifter is supposed to be grounded, which it is, but still dont work?

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by lostforawhile

the brake switch has two circuits in a cruise car and i think the clutch switch on there has two circuits too

---

yeah the brake switch on the manual pedal box has two circuits too, i havent hooked up the clutch switch but the pink wire is grounded from when i removed the wires to the shifter and it worked up until i swapped the pedal bocks

thats how mine used to be ^, and that extra feeling when the TB is open but the pedal keeps going down was the springy thing holding the cable to the pedal starting to spring back

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord

Well the wierd thing about the throttle cable on my car 88 lxi (fuel injection) is if your 3/4 way down the TB is actually 100% open. If you press it to the floor the is a feeling that "your really getting it" but there no differance in the TB just that you moved your foot another 1/2 inch and greater resistance. Its cantilevered under there if you look at the assembly screwed to the firewall inside the car. Its and odd Honda trick I have mentioned a few times nobodies really caught on. I would not be surprised its only in North American car only just to kinda razz us "lead" footed americans.

The official adjustment is the throttle cable should have some slack at idle so the TB dictates the idle not how tight the cable is. But I do check to make sure it 100% open on full throttle.


wp

---

The reason for this clever system is to avoid excess load on the throttle cable and throttle body after the throttle has fully opened.
It's on all the accords.

If the TB and the cable moves freely, it's probably the pedal that's sticking and keeping it from returning all the way to closed throttle. I had the same problem when I changed the pedals for my manual swap. I replaced all the washers and nylon washers with new oem parts and it would still not close all the way if I let of the pedal veeeerrrry gradually. What I finally wound up doing was replacing the cotter pin with one size smaller and it's never stuck at all since.

the brake switch on the cruise has two circuits,one for the brake and another circuit that opens when you press the brake. this circuit disconnects the cruise whenever you press the brake, it's only on cruise cars. I have the cruise control circuit scans up here somewhere.

here's the thread i started with the info, https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...cruise+control
the schematic is on there, you have a wire that loops out of the control box,through a normally closed side in the two circuit brake switch, then back into the control box. when you step on the pedal it breaks that circuit. on the clutch switch, the pink wire is grounded when you are not pushing the clutch. if you push the clutch it breaks that ground. on the automatic cars, that ground would be created by the shift lever being in park or neutral. I'll bet that wire is not connected. trace the pink wire out of the cruise box, if the clutch pedal is not depressed you should get continuity between it and ground. on your old car it would have gone to the shifter.

also check to make sure the plastic button on the clutch arm,hasn't fallen out. this is what pushes on the switch. if it's missing the cruise thinks the clutch is pushed all the time. I replaced mine with round head stove bolts.

sweet thanks lost, my cruise control now works, turns out my brake switch is faulty. but, when i tested it, i only jacked a wheel up in the air, and when i pressed set, it pretty much just sucked the accelerator away from me and going straight to the rev limiter :S would that be because im not actually driving it on the road, ie no load? i thoguht it was supposed to just sit on whatever speed you press 'set' at

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by A18A

sweet thanks lost, my cruise control now works, turns out my brake switch is faulty. but, when i tested it, i only jacked a wheel up in the air, and when i pressed set, it pretty much just sucked the accelerator away from me and going straight to the rev limiter :S would that be because im not actually driving it on the road, ie no load? i thoguht it was supposed to just sit on whatever speed you press 'set' at

---

it's supposed to read speed through the pulser in the speedometer head. if you had a wheel in the air it might have causes the speedo not to work,making the cruise think the car wasn't going anywhere.

the speedometer was working though, and cruise control doesnt work under 45kph.

actually that does make sense though cause i believe these are the gauges that keep making my ecu throw a vss error. gay i hate pissing around with gauges. oh well as long as i dont have to get under that fuckery dash and swap that control box

your right on the pedals. I put 88-89 pedals in my 86. i noticed the travel was less than my 89. i think it's because the floor is in the way but i never looked to see if it was that or the pedal travel itself.

yeah! i noticed that if i push my pedal right into the carpet it opens more.

i just tested the cruise control on the road & it works mint, yay,. it is a bit laggy, but i think that's cause it's 80's technology