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Has anyone tried to fit a 4G radiator? I think it would be better for cooling and its lighter as its made of aluminum.
I think that hoses dont line up, but thats not a problem as I'm thinking to replace all to silicone blues anyway..
And How about 4G interior? what you guys think about that?
its to big. maybe with some modification it would but i compared and its close but i would hack up my support for that man
Is it to wide or to high? if its to wide, than it sudnt be to hard as Im a certified welder now and can just TIG it to fit.. I'm going to need new suport anyways, because after my accident It seems I cant get it straight no mater what I doo,,Quote:
Originally Posted by Rendon LX-i
Take a look
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...g?t=1234293324
You see that gap on the passenger side? it just want line up.. :(
that sucks :( seems that even on fixed headlight accords the headlights never like to be aligned properly with the rest of the body :(
its tall...but you can always try it bro.
the 4g radiator is 2.5cm taller. so you will need to reposition the lower radiator mounts and the spacing of them might be a bit different.
I'm installing a 90-93 integra radiator at the moment. To make that fit perfectly I have to mod the mounts and the radiator itself as well.
I see :( ehh well Nothing is easy with our cars no, but this is fun tho :D
Dane can you tell me what can be wrong with my front? I have slided under the side rail.. and now this, this annoys me.. that gap there! any advice?
If your a certified welder then weld up some mounts for the halfsize
LoL you read my mind hee?Quote:
Originally Posted by OldSkoolA20accord
I was planing on making B or H series mounts, as soon I figure out how to do the swap.. and Wiring diagrams.. and build a jig for mass production :D
Dude read my undate thread. got info on the harness on there if yours is carbed. and the innovative mounts are around $300. If you could do it cheaper more ppl would want this accord. and you would make a killin. H22 would be sexy but its too wide.
I would say try to make axles for the b swap.
You should see the exhaust im makin when i get the swap done. there wont be a gas tank so its going to be straight back all the way to the suspension then one 45 degree bend to muffler. should be sexy.
im also doing the halfsize.
yeah, but my is a EFI and I'm going B20a8 soon, because of my shetty government that not allow to be it street legal with any swap.. besides optional engine to that particular car..
But it would be esyer for me to have the engine to fab mounts on site and make a jig. But nothing is impossible really, one problem might be is shipping, so If Im ever going to do this I'll do it for 3Geez community.. http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...gnluvplace.gif
lol. oh that kinda sucks.
Tennessee could give a shit about whats on the road.
I have few plans here, I'm working on it..
like DC towerbars replicas ingraved 3Geez instead of DC, Header with 3" downpipe, Rear towerbar in DC style. and few other things as well from CF. But I'm on moving foot soon so it might take some time. I need to find suitable garage and decent 15A power line, so I can weld freely..
Lucky you are!! I wish I had that kind of freedom.. damn it would have been F20c and RWD lol.. no just kiddingQuote:
Originally Posted by OldSkoolA20accord
hell yea. someone told me to do that.lol
I have a half size civic racing radiator and i didnt do much to set it up. Looks hot to.
What gap are you referring to? the gap between the grille and the hood?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomisimo
yes, that one. I tried to adjust it, but as soon as I bolt the headlight on it shifts.. as you know that the grill mounts to the lights so therefore I suspect that whole front end is shrunk.. I checked at crumple zones, nothing, they are straight as ever.. I dont get it, I thought maybe I just need to lift the car at that corner with a 2T jack? maybe then it will listen?Quote:
Originally Posted by thegreatdane
Tall me what you think, maybe I overseen something here..
heres a few pics. This one for a wagon.
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/1087/4grad1lr0.th.jpg
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/7802/4grad2dv8.th.jpg
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/7420/4grad3dt8.th.jpg
Have to do your own measurement conversions.
wp
thank you very mukh, this is 4G radiator right?
Yes it was my frineds out of a 1992 Accord Wagon USA model. The top tank leaks where it is crimped also as you can see the top "tits" have been sheared off prolly in a front end wreck of some kind.
wp
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomisimo
Hmm it's difficult to say without seeing the car. But to make the entire side rail bend in the upwards direction would require a rather large impact from underneath and would most likely cause the door to interfere with the fender or at least screw up the gap. I think an impact like that would be very unusual, but I dont know what you did with the car :)
If the headlight seems difficult to mount and if no other clearance problems seem to have emerged I'd think the damage was in the front bulkhead somewhere.
The headlights cant be adjusted in the vertical direction as you know so something must be bent.
I would be careful about pulling out the hydraulic press before finding the actual place its been bent though. The metal is not always very forgiving when you start forcing it with hydraulics :)
Why? If you want better cooling, get a metal 2 core out of an 86-87. Copper is a much better conductor of heat than aluminum. The alum blocks don't require such a large radiator because they dissipate heat so much better than cast iron. But if you want to save the 1/2 lb or whatever, power to ya.
I had to adjust as much as I cud, but nothing worked out for me, I even tried to hammer it up a bit, the metal is just to flex there, it want deform. Adjusted headlights as much as possible too, any how, I found out that there was one bolt in to the headlight that made it looking like it is now.Quote:
Originally Posted by thegreatdane
I must agree about using hydraulic tools there. yes..
And to tell you that my fenders already scratche the door on the both sides. even if they are pushed forward along those oval holes.. So I'm out of options here.. maybe I need to disassemble it all together to the radiator to relax all bolts and assemble and see if it gets better.. Anyhow, If you came up with something, let me know..
So you say that copper one is better then.. I have a 86, so I gues I have a copper one then, then I will just clean it and maybe paint it in heat dissipatingQuote:
Why? If you want better cooling, get a metal 2 core out of an 86-87. Copper is a much better conductor of heat than aluminum. The alum blocks don't require such a large radiator because they dissipate heat so much better than cast iron. But if you want to save the 1/2 lb or whatever, power to ya.
paint.. I like to see my engine cool, or maybe oil cooler will help me more with cooling..
Thx for the tip, I didnt know that..
