Wheel studs can be a pain

The other day, I was driving home after work and I heard a load thud come from my front right wheel. Pulled to the next gas station to check it, I was only half a mile from it. Well I didnt have a flat tire. This worried me just as it would with any body else. Well since I could drive on it, I drove all the way home. Dont worry it really wasnt that far. As soon as I got home, took off the hub cap, there it was, 2 lug nuts with broken studs fall out.

I had a car where I lost one lug nut, but that was a much easier job. For starters, I couldnt get everything off I needed. But finally, after 4 days, I finally got the studs back on. Now I am having a scratching sound coming from the wheel. I think it maybe the metal sheild for the rotor. Not really sure.

I am interested in my accord. Never had a honda before, needed to try it out since I bought it for 800 dollars. Its an 86 accord with the cfi engine(carb-fuel injected). Dont like the engine to much but it drives. Looking to swap out. Any information I can get would be awesome. If anybody can give me info on how to do this hub job easier, that would be great. I am looking to change all wheel studs for reason of just want the strength.

I am also looking for spare parts, but I think that goes in a different blog.
Thanks

The front wheel studs are the ones that are a pain. There is a way to replace them without pressing out the hub. You need to grind off half of the head on the back of the new stud so it can slip passed the rounded area for the bearing.

good idea in changing all the studs on the car, I guess after 20+ years it doesnt hurt to have it done.
If your interested in swaping out the motor I suggest checkiing out this thread
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67310
And Welcome to the forum

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bmoneyhoffa

Its an 86 accord with the cfi engine(carb-fuel injected).

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LOL. So which is it carb or fuel injected? :lol:

I would check the studs for straightness first. They break very easily when they get bent even slightly. You might also put a little oil on each stud so you don't torsion them unnecessarily when torquing. When you do torque them, it's 80 ft-lbs and you should use a torque wrench every time you tighten them.

If you're OCD like me, you won't want to grind down your lug heads to install them. This means you're going to need to take the entire front suspension apart to remove the steering knuckle. Then you'll take that down to Pep Boys so they can press out the hub. Then you'll go back to find they've butchered it up in the process. Then you'll argue with the manager for a few weeks, threaten small claims.... Sorry, that's another story. Anyway, as long as you've gone that far, you might as well swap out the front wheel bearings. By the time you're done, you'll have a week's labor and $300 in it for some $0.50 lug studs.

Barring bent studs or power drifting into curbs, you shouldn't ever need to do what I've outlined above.

All I did to replace the front studs since they keep breaking I dont know why. BUT I just took it to a bench grinder Tapper some of the head and it barely cearlys the hub but it works. The dust sheild is in the way you can either bend it or cut it. i just bent it, when i was done i just bent it back. But not hard. The chances of pressing the hub out and in again your prolly going to end up messing up the hub bearings.

I just did what Snooz suggested, and replaced the hubs entirely. I was able to get new hub/bearing assembly (with new studs) for pretty cheap. They just get them pressed on and you're golden.

Welcome to the board. Where are you located?

If you're not opposed to turning wrenches on your car, then why not source some 88-89 LX-i or SE-i knuckles from the junk-yard or someone parting out a car here. Then just get new hubs/bearings for those knuckles and you won't need to borrow someone else's car while you're knuckles are off getting operated on.

The 88-89 LX-i will net you larger (better) calipers and rotors, thus better braking power. Don't forget though to change out your master cylinder (also relatively cheap) to the larger one which is needed because of the larger fluid capacity of the front calipers. You'll also need the prop valve.

Call those snapped studs a blessing in disguise and your opportunity to liven up your car a bit in the process of the repair.

You're better off going to a small machine shop with a hydraulic press and have them pess out the hub. Thats what I did and I don't have any issues thus far.