82 carb floods when hot, gas tank hums ?

EDIT----update @ post 21, so jump down there.


first of hello every1,
once the engine temp rises a little above normal temp & I shut her down, the carb floods through the sec. barrel. Ive also noticed that when it floods the gas tank builds a lot of pressure & hums. that's how I know its flooded. if I remove the gas cap it stops dumping gas & a lot of pressure escapes. then I can restart the engine, if I don't remove the gas cap it will continue to hum (build pressure) & flood itself. it only does this when it running hotter than normal & its been getting hotter everyday, so it pretty much floods when ever I shut her down unless I drive without the gas cap on (not very safe). I rebuilt the carb a few times now thinking it was something with it, but just recently discovered the gas cap thing. this is my first honda so I'm stumped. there's to much crap to the vac system. I don't know whats what & whats needed for good mileage. I know a lot of ya might say to ditch the factory carb for a weber but I cant afford right now :( any suggestions ?

thanks

also when/if I do go weber whats your guys MPG ? I got this car for the MPGs as I have 3 paper routes & drive 70+ miles a day. thanks again

ekoms.

: UPDATE :

Ive been driving it around to raise the eng. temp to where it starts to hum & flood the engine with the gas cap off & it didn't flood the engine. so I'm thinking there is something wrong with the gas tank vent system & the pressure it creates forces the gas to get pass the float needles & flood the engine. doesn't it vent back to the engine to reburn the fumes (part of the emissions system) or does it just vent out next to the filler ? how is the venting system setup ? this is all I cant think of.


Edit : Ive been read to just drill a vent hole in the gas cap, but what is causing it to build so much pressure ?

Check your charcoal canister and the hoses running to it.

You have a restriction somewhere in the fuel venting system. Fix that problem instead of letting your hard earned money evaporate into the atmosphere through a hole in the gas cap.

well today I was in the middle of my paper routes & bang, bang, bang. I thought the tranny blew on me but I blew a CV shaft. dammit. I guess the cars on hold & Im back to driving my gas hog heep. do u guys have I layout of the venting system ?

thanks again.

:UPDATE:

ok guys I got the cv fixed & removed all the lines to the charcoal canister one buy one. 2 of them (small purge & other large line) killed the motor as soon as I removed them. the one labeled tank did nothing as the larger purge line. should I just replace the canister ? Im not sure what I am looking for. also I noticed that the #14 vac line under the 2 fuel lines has gas going through it to the carb, not from the carb through the line. if I disconnect it from the carb it just drips fuel kinda slow & that line runs to the black box ? not sure if its supposed to do that ? help ! I also took a gas cap from an 84 with the carbed ES2 (my parts car) & am using it as its a different cap.
thanks

The gas cap should be fine from either car. If you have fuel in something other than a vacuum line, then you're that much closer to finding out your problem. There should definitely not be fuel in any of the vacuum lines. It sounds like some sort of diaphragm in the carb is blown out or is leaking. You mentioned that you just rebuilt the carb?

i want to make sexy time with your car if its the one in ur sig

gas cap get clogged and rusty too, so they dont work as well
the ethanol in the gas now is gong to cause weird issues inevitably

ok guys I am fed up with this Honda carb/black box crap. I ripped it all out today & modified my spare carb for my 81 Toyota pickup to work with the EK1. I just have to get the throttle cable & coke connected. let me tell you, with this carb the car starts without any assistance & runs alot smoother. when I get everything all finished I will post some pics of it all. another reason I LOVE Toyota's. the engine bay looks so much cleaner :) 1 ? though, what lines have to stay or need plugged ? like the lines from the charcoal canister and such. I did remove the black box & the majority of the line running to the engine.

thanks.

Good work, that was quick! You don't really need anything. Run vacuum to whatever accessories you want to keep. You will probably want to run vacuum line to your heater box from the manifold, and you can also run vacuum to the vacuum advance, and the cruise control actuator if you have it. You don't NEED the vacuum to the canister, but it might get smelly without it. Is there an evap port on the Toyota carb you can run the canister to? I'd do that if you can. I don't know if I'd run that to manifold vacuum as I think the fumes will change the mixture after the carb and won't really be consistent.

I ran vac to the brake booster, vac advance, choke release (on carb). I also connected the vac line labeled "TANK" (that's the gas tank vent line correct ?) from the canister straight to the manifold. other than tuning the carb for this engine & running the manual choke, it runs great ! anyways here's 2 pics for the moment, it started to get dark :)

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...0426091934.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...0426091936.jpg

anything look familiar ? and no Civic Accord Honda that pic is the same year, but not my car. it just so people know what Honda I have :)

Very cool. What size are the throats on that carb? Did you just fab up an adapter plate or drill holes and tap the manifold? Glad to hear it runs good for you!

I'm not sure on the size of the throats, but there pretty close to the Honda carbs. worked all day on it today changing a few things, tuning the carb & adding the choke. she sputters a little until it gets totally warmed up, then runs awesome. I think I got it setup the best I can. after all this carb was designed for the Toyota 2.4l 22r not the 1.8l EK1. the tank still hums but for like 2-5 seconds then stops & it doesn't flood. I can live with that. once I get it all finished & cleaned up I will post some detailed pics. I'm very proud of my self for getting this all swapped & running in 1day (it just took from 9am to 8pm) :) also I just made an adapter plate but I like the idea of drill/tap the manifold, that would look even cleaner. what do you think is better as this car will never see the factory carb again ?

Well if you're dumping that carb. Hell yeah make the manifold fit it. Though the adapter plate might make it a bit easier to do some port matching. Make for some smoother transitions from the carb to the intake manifold... But I'd take off the manifold if I was going to do any drilling or tapping on it. Last thing you want is a metal flake going down into a cylinder.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ekoms

ok guys I am fed up with this Honda carb/black box crap. I ripped it all out today & modified my spare carb for my 81 Toyota pickup to work with the EK1. I just have to get the throttle cable & coke connected. let me tell you, with this carb the car starts without any assistance & runs alot smoother. when I get everything all finished I will post some pics of it all. another reason I LOVE Toyota's. the engine bay looks so much cleaner :) 1 ? though, what lines have to stay or need plugged ? like the lines from the charcoal canister and such. I did remove the black box & the majority of the line running to the engine.

thanks.

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This look familiar?

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...r/100_0850.jpg

That's my '82 Celica block 22R with a '79 20R head on it, .030 over, shaved, 10.74:1 compression, and custom power steering bracket garbage.

Funny how we both have first gen Toyota pickups and 2nd gen Honda Accords, eh?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by guyhatesmycar

Funny how we both have first gen Toyota pickups and 2nd gen Honda Accords, eh?

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hell ya strange eh. I love my 1gen yota & now that I've got the honda running good Im starting to really enjoy it. ya got to love the japs. them make some great vehicles. glad to hear Im not the only out there with almost only jap vehicles, but I also have a Jeep Rubi & a MGB. I had to have an MG as I was born in Ipswich :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ekoms

hell ya strange eh. I love my 1gen yota & now that I've got the honda running good Im starting to really enjoy it. ya got to love the japs. them make some great vehicles. glad to hear Im not the only out there with almost only jap vehicles, but I also have a Jeep Rubi & a MGB. I had to have an MG as I was born in Ipswich :)

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I've still got my '84 3/4 ton GMC, though I don't really drive it. I've always wanted a little british sports car, my buddy just restored a Triumph Spitfire, one of my favourites! You should throw up some pictures of your MB. I've seen a Sunbeam driving around town here as well.

well the yota carb didn't work out as planned, its getting like 10 mpg on this car (i need mileage). so I tore it all of this morning & put the ball & chains back on. good thing I didnt toss that shit. I was almost going to, then my girl said to keep it just incase. man do I love her. she saved me alot of headache that I would of had id I did toss it. no more updates for this thread as my cars stock again :(

thanks guys.

I remember the old Keihin carb could get fuel sucked into the vacuum lines from the air jet lines mistakenly connected to manifold vacuum, or a gasket leak allowing for vacuum to enter in above the jet/emulsion tubes pulling out fuel.


Hooking straight to the tank vent is okay. But now and then it may cause a little hesitation.

I like to add a smaller inline filter between the vent line and the air filter for the carb so that a little air is mixed with the gas fumes before reaching the carb, in theory at least.

hey guys been alittle while for this tread, but it still hums & builds way too much pressure. it no longer floods since I rebuilt the carb & replaced the charcoal canister, but still hums. the only thing else I can think of is the two-way valve. do u have to drop the tank to replace it ? not sure what else it could be.