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alright... my car is running really rich... ive already replaced the ECT, injectors for better condition ones, injector resistor box, FPR, ecu, and the engine wiring harness, o2 sensors, vac advance, black box...
still she continues to run rich with a rough idle... i have no idea what else could be causing her to act up... help me out guys :/ i dont want to have my car taken away just cuz it wont pass smog and i wont get my tags
Did you check out the Tw sensor? just throwing that out there...
is there another name for this sensor? idk what it isQuote:
Originally Posted by Demon1024
Did your check yoru map sesnor. that does make your car run lean or rich. If the sensor is dead then youll have that problem. Its inside the magic box
is there a way to test the MAP sensor?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rendon LX-i
with a volt meter. Just go to the junk yard and yank one out of a 3geez. doesnt matter what year as long as its FI. It well have a vacum hose to it and it well say MAP ASSLY. on it. and DENSO or someshit. Try that man...That would be your best bet. Just pocket it thou lOL no need to pay 25 dollars for electronic shit that MAY not work. thats how j/ys charge
i have a spare black box laying around.. i might change the MAP tomorrow or somethingQuote:
Originally Posted by Rendon LX-i
Recheck your TW sensor too.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60400
wp
ok i wanna get things straight... i have the 89 version of the lxi... i was told the green one was ECT... now im hearing green is TW... which is it? im tired of buying things that dont need replacing... also i heard the white one was the fan switch... correct me if im wrong... i need to know what the green one does AND the white one...Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord
In for the same reason. I'm going to try the paper clip test to see what does what. Clsoing the loop in the fan switch should turn the fans on when the car is off.
ok i found out the hard way... the white one is the ECT... the green one is the fan switch... i just disconnected one at a time and sure enough right when i disconnected the white one... i got code 6 on the CEL... so theres proof... AND i now know why i was running rich... the ECT wasnt getting a good connection and yeah... now i cleaned it and shes running perfect... BUT i adjusted the valves to factory specs and she sounds like a dam diesel... what are your guys' personal specs for the valves? i dont like the diesel sound
You did it when it was dead cold right?
i think mine was 7 and 10 if i'm not mistaken
Yes. TW sensor is ECT sensor ( engine coolant temperature sensor).TW stands for Temperature Water or Thermal Water sensor.If you say TW at an auto parts, they may look confused if they are not to knowledgable.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1987AccordLx-i
I have seen people get them backwards. The TW (ECT) sensor and the radiator fan switch look similar and both accept the same plug, but each are calibrated for a different temperature reading.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1987AccordLx-i
when i did voltmeter on it i got pure zeros across the board... and ohms it was i think 160 somthing.. pass or fail?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluntman
oh! ok haha now i got itQuote:
Originally Posted by Bluntman
yeah... i was thinking on going 7 and 15 but idk ill see how it is at 8 and 15Quote:
Originally Posted by Demon1024
I don't have my manual handy, but I go with the middle of the range (I want to say 7 & 11) and adjust them pretty tight. You want them to make a little noise. When they get real quiet is when you are in danger of burning a valve.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1987AccordLx-i
i was thinking more of 8 and 15 but if 7 and 11 are ok then ill go with thatQuote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1987AccordLx-i
Good detective work on the sensor. I did not answer cuz i was not sure esp on the 89 model.
Valves will be a little noisy at idle. You might have them a little loose. I think there some youtubes of our cars running one of them being mine might help you out. But the sound on film to me is louder then what it seems to ear.
Also just a note my favorite Honda Mechanic swears I run mine too loose but after about 200k miles I think I like my adjustment better then his. I have been thinking about messing with the adjustments to see if theres some power to be had there but I ll wait to after my 300k mile goal.
wp
thanks man.. i like figuring things out on my own :devil: but yeah the valves are set to factory specs and it sounds horrible so im going to adjust it againQuote:
Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord
intake 0.005 - 0.007 in (0.12 to 0.17 mm)
exhaust 0.010 - 0.012 in ( 0.25 - 0.30 mm)
from the book. I should have put that it was inches :)
sweet... ill stick to those specsQuote:
Originally Posted by Demon1024
great news!!! such great news i had to tell 3geez first... i passed smog!! finally after months of diagnosing.. she passed with flying colors... thanks to all that helped me pass smog :cheers:
congrats man!
yeah i can see that 7 and 15 would make it sound like a diesel lol, it's pretty much always 7 and 11 on honda.
actually right now i have it set to factory specs... which is if im not mistaken like 15 intake side and 28 exhaust sideQuote:
Originally Posted by stat1K
