Should I get on the Ksports I order? I want a pretty stiff ride with good handling, I can adjust the struts of course, but still want a great amount of control. Should I just go with their stock spring rates or order a custom set?
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Should I get on the Ksports I order? I want a pretty stiff ride with good handling, I can adjust the struts of course, but still want a great amount of control. Should I just go with their stock spring rates or order a custom set?
Their regular ones are 672lbs front, 392 rear. I think thats gonna be plenty honestly.
Maybe for the towing haha. :)
Now to find a place to order the ksports cheap.
ebay. honestly the D2s are cheapER and do the same shit luke.
I've heard good thing about D2's luke. check IA about info on them.
I know this fools. Ksports is my loose term haha. No ebay I hate ebay. I want to order from a real store lol.
LOL......ebay the shit yo. A its from D2 but there just selling em on ebay. make sense. there cheaper there to.
Ebays 800 bucks...apparently we can get it for 725 shipped but iom still researching.
keep us updated on your progress with this Luke. Once you get these, and dump those top-hats' I promise you'll understand why I've been preaching that pairing proper spring rates with proper shocks is a must. If you like the feel of the ride on your Sprints, just ask them to dupe that same rate (front and back), but understand the car will be MUCH tighter with the KSports and will make your teeth chatter on bumps.
Whose running sprints? :ugh: :)
Lol Ive got ef coils. But yeah Im still working on pricing at the moment. Talked to the guy from carolinahondas...and he said d2 isnt making em anymore and that only ksport makes em now. So he gave me a quote for $800 shipped for ksports....trying to find a better deal at th moment. Ill def. keep ya updated.
Also im hoping the chassis can handle the spring rates....sometimes i feel like im killing it when hitting potholes/dropoffs, with 450lb front and 350lb rear. Guess well see.
No matter what spring rates you get, none of those struts will likely be valved to match any of them. Here's a ksport dyno graph if you're interested in how "awesome" they are. Even with the adjustability, they'll likely never match up.
http://www.msprotege.com/members/Jef...FrontFinal.jpg
http://www.msprotege.com/members/Jef...tRearFinal.jpg
As you can see on the front shock dyno, shock 1 will have to be turned near max, and shock 2 near minimum to even match up. The rears won't ever match on this particular set. Maybe you'll get lucky and get a matching set, but I doubt it. You see Ksport reps popping into forums to "back up" their product, then never provide any data.
Well honestly theres not really any other alternatives for a full bodied coilover in this price range?
so the k sports are not the best?
how can you tune them?
who have you all contacted for a price quote? adam is the guy phillie bought his from? ksport directly? any other local suppliers?
I'm not sure what the big hoopla is about a "full bodied coilover." It's the same thing as a strut with a threaded sleeve welded to it, but these guys annodize them and put a useless adjuster knob on the top. You don't have many options but waiting and spending your money on something quality would be the way to go. Hell, whatever you have on your car now is probably going to handle better. Just because it's a coilover doesn't mean it's better than a good strut / spring setup. And without a dyno sheet, you really have no way of knowing if your struts will be properly valved for the springs you get.
Basically, buying something like this is like throwing your money down the toilet. That's all it is. Might as well buy a KYB, Koni, Tokiko and Honda strut and put them all on different corners, because that's basically what you're doing. Don't just buy them because they're a coilover.
Also, a lot of FWD drivers are using higher springrates in the rear. The reasoning I haven't researched yet, and seems sort of counter-intuitive, but it's definitely something you should look into.
If you can find me a full set of New revalved konis with a good sleeve for less than $800 ill buy them right now. :) Or new bilsteins for that matter. Also with just a spring and strut combo I cant get as low as Im running now.
As far as the rear being set up that way its just to promote oversteer. Trying to accomplish about a 50/50 split from front to back...but its very hard in a fwd car.
Having a car wish softer rates and a bigger rear bar though accomplishes the same thing. When Im driving in the mountains hard my front goes first, but my rear is soon to follow if/when i lose traction. XD
yeah the main reason it putting brick-stiff springs out back is to get the FWD car very ass-happy. Combine this will slightly less stiff front end and you have the ability to keep both front tires on a good contact patch because it'll allow the front to flex a bit under heavy corner loading. This, along with the stiffer ass end will make the rear want to break traction sooner (greatly reducing rear traction and the 'push' notorious with FWD cars which is the major factor causing understeer). Once the traction breaks, or just is lessened, the front end will basically just want to 'pull' the car through turns but you'll have to re-learn the FWD driving experience because it'll mean needing to keep the ass from coming around. Remember, loose is fast right.
I'm dying to actually put that theory to practical application this summer once I get my damn heap-o-shit on the road again. We'll have to see though.
What kind of logic is that? That's like saying you're going to put a 90hp Geo Metro race motor in your car because it's cheaper than a Turbo A20. But you're justifying it because it's a race motor, so it's somehow better even though it's performance may not even be on par with a stock A20?
Explain to me what exactly you think you're going to get out of these that you won't get out of your current setup with different springs. What exactly are you getting for $800?
Adjustability? Rubbish.
Ride height? You already have sleeves right?
Proper valving? You have no way of knowing.
But I digress. I guess they are pretty flash.
Well thats what Im asking...if Im not gonna be getting anything better out of them, then Ill spend the $800 on a new camera or something.
Oh yeah. That would be money better spent IMO. :)
But don't just take my word for it.
Hmm Im thinking I might just pics up a set of used EF full bodied coilovers cheap and buy a camera lol.