just like the title says. im getting fuel. it has new (b4 sitting) plugs wires and dist cap n rotor. new coil maybe?
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just like the title says. im getting fuel. it has new (b4 sitting) plugs wires and dist cap n rotor. new coil maybe?
is the gas nine months old? gas doesn't last anymore it goes bad quick.you'll also probably need to drain the tank and put in fresh gas, first drain the oil and change the filter, don't start it with that old cruddy oil,
aye, oil change would be good but im sure it will be fine, and the car just wont run optimal on the old gas but it should run fine lol.. might miss fire a little bit but no reason to waste gas just run it thru and then add fresh. 9 months is not really that old lol... give her a good driving around when she starts then add fresh gas, rev it up high a bit to get all the old crap out of the engine also
my lawnmower won't even run on gas more then a couple of months old, it's garbage today, it's nothing like it was even a couple of years ago, it simply won't last. I can't believe you would overlook the obvious and make him do extra work for nothing, unless you put in a fuel stabilizer gas has no shelf life today.
here's your best explanation, since almost all gas is 10 percent ethenol blend today, it absorbs a huge amount of water from sitting, much more then regular gas, once it cools down the gas seperates. what is in the tank after nine months is basically worthless as a fuel. http://www.fuel-testers.com
While I partially agree with you Lost, I don't think he needs to drain out the gas nor it's the cause for the problem exactly.
I do think that some of this gas could add to an existing fuel delivery problem with a carbed car.
We have vehicles at work that sit well over six months and some even over a year with the same gas and they can be started. That said though we're getting gas fresh from the pump that is pretty lousy and cause random bucks and running on condtions.
I would get the best looking of the old plugs and unplug one of the spark wires and connect it to the old plug. Lay the plug next to the block or where it can ground out. Then have somebody crank the car over and check the intensity of the spark inside the gap of the plug. It should be nice and bright white blue. If not or no spark at all maybe time to look at the coil.
Lubricate all linkages on the carb and check vacuum lines.
Clean battery cables thoroughly with a wire battery brush.
i wonder if he did the bypass of the fuel pump relay to prime the carbs? sometimes they will just refuse to start after sitting unless you do that, i still think the gas is bad, too much experience with this new garbage to discount that. I've had to drain gas out of gas cans that was two months old in order to get my lawnmowers to start. fresh gas and they start right up. there have been a lot of complaints out of Florida on them putting way too much ethanol in the gas, since we are close to the border and get most of the fuel here from an unnamed gas delivery distributor, who also delivers all over Florida,probably the same crap. It happens all over the country, chances are he's getting cheap gas also, the ethanol absorbs so much water it separates
We still dont know if it starts at all.. but, its carbed right? poor some good gas in from the top, and see if she turns over, once you've concluded that theres spark.
English language, so complicated and confusing isn't it?
To read the title it says hard to start. Some of us would say well it does start but it is hard. Others would say well it won't start so it is hard....
I agree with you but pointing out observations of life :thumbup:
I would put a shot of starting fluid in it. If you can start it with starting fluid, you can be pretty confident that it's a fuel delivery problem. Be careful with the starting fluid though. Too much and you can wreck a bearing.
I'd stick with starting fluid, not gas down the throats, if you want to pour gas in pour it into the float chamber. I'd think twice before washing your cylinders with fuel when it's been sitting and the oils probably scarce to begin with.
You could even run the carb with a fuel line from the base of a fuel can sitting above the carb, just to test things out with the fuel pump and filters bypassed.
@ first it wouldnt start. persistant i kept trying. then it started but low idle i tried to give it gas but acted like i flooded it and shut off (repeated process). Then went to auto parts store-- picked up some carb cleaned, seafoam, spark plugs, and a msd coil. i tried the carb cleaner, to no avail.
i also tried pouring the seafoam into the carb and did better "trying" to start, so i poured it into the tank and attempted to replace the s.p. and pulled (unscrewed) the plugs but the 'all' plugs still looked 'brand new'. put em' all back w/ firing in order.
I removed the stock coil and prepped the wires for the msd, hooked up the msd coil and i sounded noticably stronger but NO start @all. i kept tring, then the rpm stopped jumping on my cluster when i cranked her. i think i might have blown a fuse (hopefully) because i didnt ground the coil wires. im on a much needed vacation now, but i will be back in a week or 2.
@ lostforawhile;;im going to try siphoning the gas out and putting the good stuff in. if that doesnt work im going to haf2 get it towed being as its in storage now. then go from there.
Thank You All for the advice! i will keep yall informed... she does have over 250k so i might just get it towed and rebuild, @ A20A1 being as it probably has alot of gas in the oil from cranking and give gas so the seals will be shot soon.
I agree with lost, and check both your fuel filters for varnish. I repair small engines for fun and extra money and the "new" gas is NOT stable. White powder oxidation in aluminum carbs from water that is absorbed into the gas is a big problem as is fuel turning into varnish within 3 or 4 months. I'm buying non-starting snow blowers now to fix and I always pull the bowl to see if it is badly oxidizing. If there is a lot of that white powder in the bowl and pitting the carb is trash.
There should be a drain plug on the bottom of the fuel tank. Have a clean catch pan ready so you can see what you have in the tank. If the fuel is ok you can put it back in.
Also it is possible that a 20 year old vacuum line is sucking air....
ok after just reading a "how-to" on installing a msd blaster it seems i hooked both positive wires to the msd (doh!). that might be the reason why the rpm gauge stopped working. does any1 know what i may have broke?