Not sure if these are new but they look pretty sweet....stainless 4 into 1:thumbup:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...:en#vi-content
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Not sure if these are new but they look pretty sweet....stainless 4 into 1:thumbup:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...:en#vi-content
must be a new header but they look alright. i guess they are the SS header knock offs
they sure look better then space shitterQuote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
Looks pretty decent.
I'm not sure about the 4-1 design!
I already picked one up. You can check out the thread on Prelude Power.
http://preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=337284
doesnt look bad for the money, dunno how i feel about 4-1 design as even the 4-2-1 (wich i could instal in peices) was a bit of a pain to get in there. its amazeing how a new part can come out for a car thats so damn old lol
about god damn time we got some goodies!
man i hope they dont sell out, wife is supposed to get me those for my birthday!
got to love a woman who buys you car parts
I noticed they have a header for the b20a too, too bad it's for the prelude ones... I wonder how hard it would be to modify it to fit the accord, I'm guessing it's just the bend that's different with the prelude egine leaning backwards.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-H...item335eab293c
I think Roodoo modified one. Might have been an H22 header though...
On the Mazda forum I'm on the OBX headers are pretty common for anyone who doesn't wanna spend upwards of $700 for the AWR. Haven't seen any complaints, good deal for the money.
i might buy one when i get back home, my pacesetter is about 80% rust now...
i always heard obx was known for some pretty bad weld jobs... though that might have been early in their years idk. but they look nice.
There is always this to help stop the rust from even startingQuote:
Originally Posted by itzdave
http://www.por15.com/BLACK-VELVET/productinfo/BVG/
What is wrong with a 4 into 1 header?
I'd assume it's bad for low and midrange power if you're more or less stock, it'd be good for a fully built motor. I'm thinking of buying one anyway eventually I got to get my suspension up to par before I can go any faster.Quote:
Originally Posted by hammer3rd
Actually if memory serves me, the 4-1 design makes for a steeper torque curve early on, but you sacrifice some hp for the low end grunt. The 4-2-1 is what DC used, as do many of the other mfg's out there because it's the best all around design that will give you a decent increase in both tq and hp. Then there's the ultra-long primary 4-1 (some designs called spaghetti-headers) that are decent for tq and you still get a solid hp.Quote:
Originally Posted by 86-lxi
Think about the design of most turbo mani's. Ultra-short 4-1. Done for a few reasons:
1. Space for the turbo
2. A turbo motor makes shitty power (relative to on boost) before it spools, so a mani that allows tons of flow (for the turbo) but makes a pretty steep and early tq curve will give it a teeny bit more early grunt to make it.
on that design (just looked at it) I wouldn't be surprised if S&S sold the jig to OBX because that looks nearly identical to the S&S header that use to be available to us (arguably still is).
Slip fit on the primarys means it's easier to install, but you might get some leakage. Just a part of it to be aware of, that's all.
Ball-socket for the joint (same as S&S and Pacesetter) instead of the flex/bellows like DC. The socket joint lasts longer than the bellows, but tends to put a little more stress on the rest of the exhaust system due to how stiff it is compared to the bellows.
Either way, I like this header. The longer primary will be more like the tq and hp curves of the DC and P/S 4-2-1, and I'd prefer a shorter primary with a 2.25" collector, but for the $$ it's well worth a shot.
Shoot they come out with a 4-1 after I made my own and for only $170 on e-bay.
I would have bought them.
As for the 2" collector pipe, there may be some options other then simply cutting it off and replacing it with 2.25"
1) I could use it as a choke tapered into a 2.25"
2) Stepped the 2" to a 2.25"
3) Set in the 2" pipe 1/2" past the beginning of the 2.25" pipe
