Sorry to get all noobish up in this hizzle...

So, long post warning.

I'm just getting back to the 3gee after having driven an '03 Protege5 for 2 years. Loved the car to death, but I had to sell it to fund my 2 month Asia backpacking trip - totally worth it, but as with any good car, it broke my heart to see it go.

Now, I've had a black 87/88 write-off-mashup Accord sedan sitting in my driveway for a whopping 3 years. When I bought it I started to rip the interior apart, do a black and silver theme similar to another member on here (can't remember his name but I loved his car - it was a hatch, black, with black and silver interior and the single sexiest front bumper I've ever seen on these cars, which I believe he made himself). Anyhow, when I got the P5 I lost interest and started modding that instead.

Now I'm going home in 8 days, broker than broke, with big dreams to fix the Accord. It's been a while since I've touched it so this might not be all, but these are the problems I remember, and if you're willing to spitball with these incredibly vague descriptions, it would be much appreciated. Much searching will follow and has preceded this post, but it's been a little out of date.

1. First and foremost, no reverse and no 4th gear (auto trans). I'm relatively handy, and I realize that the trans almost definitely has to be replaced. My question is: Should I bother with a pick n pull auto trans (or similar salvage yard)? The goal here is speed to get this thing on the road as my Silverado makes my wallet cry. Should I just bite the bullet and do the manual swap? I know it would make the car more fun, but really what I'm most concerned about avoiding is repeated trans replacements. Also I know it comes down to luck of the draw, but basically, what are my chances in getting a functional auto trans out of a wrecker car?

2. The car kept draining batteries. I could never find the drain, but it was pretty massive. Any common sites for something like this? The battery would be dog dead within roughly an hour of boosting it and running the car for a good 20 min/half hour. Sometimes it would be dead after one cranking attempt within a minute or two of shutting it off. Again, vague, but any advice is helpful.

3. WHY WON'T MY SUNROOF STOP LEAKING?! I tried running some wire through the drain tubes in the trunk, but never really reamed on getting it in there because I thought I would break a tube and just make it worse. Should it take some elbow grease to clear those? Also, where will the blockage empty from, and will I get a better idea of whats going on with the headliner out?

I'm sure there's more, which I'll undoubtedly post. Please go easy on me, keep the flaming to a minimum (just getting back into these cars!), and I'm hugely grateful for whatever you can offer as constructive advice.

1. get the automatic professionally rebuilt or get a u-pick manual swap "kit". i wouldn't get a junkyard automatic because you can't really test it and junkyard warranties suck. you can do a junkyard five speed swap for probably equal or less money assuming you are doing the work.

2. Unplug the battery and charge it. If it has been sitting a few months you will most likely need a new one. With a good battery connect the negative. Touch the positive cable to the positive post a few times. There should be a small spark, like a static discharge from your finger. If there is a hot spark there is a draw. Remove the alternator charge wire and try again (this will test your diodes in the alternator). Touch the positive wire to the positive battery post again a few times. If the spark gets notably smaller you may have bad diodes even though it charges. This kills the battery when the engine is not running. If there is no change reconnect the alternator and move to the fuse box. remove the main fuses and try again to see if you get a small spark. If you get a small spark put back 1 fuse at a time starting with the main (70a) fuse and check the spark at the battery cable as you reinstal each fuse. When you find the fuse that causes a big spark use a wiring diagram to trace what it feeds and go from there.
This is a way to test without tools. I use a 55 watt headlight in line with the positive cable so I don't have to keep checking the spark. When the headlight illuminates this indicates a draw.

3. Use some compressed air... I dunno much about the sunroof, don't have one :0

o funny thing about these cars. if the headlight gets stuck and does not reach its full open or closed position they will not turn off or even make noise! this happened to me when i crashed mine.

Also check your rear defrost (had the relay latch on me last winter and it would kill the batt right quick).

And ditto about using a light to test for draws (my version is an 1157 with a couple wires soldered to it. Or I use an old school test light in series with the positive cable). Start with the high amp screw down fuses (alt, rear defrost, Ignition switch) in the underhood fuse box. If they all check out, move on to the ATC fuced circuits. Luckily the electrical in these cars is not too bad at all to service and is all in all pretty reliable.

That's an awesome idea for the electrical. Thanks, guys.

Also, I've gotten a compressor since the last time I tried to clean out the sunroof drain lines, so that'll be handy.

As for the trans... yeah, I figured that would be the answer. Cost is as big an issue as time, so we'll see about this whole rebuilt trans business. Although, if I have to do the JY 5spd swap, nobody is going to have to twist my arm :P

Another thought is to try to find a car listed that was running and was wrecked or blew a head gasket. It's not uncommon to see them listed . This would require purchasing a whole car and taking out two transmissions . Still a risk but reduces it somewhat.