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Some time when i start my car, warm or cold, it idle really rough and go between 800 and bounce near lower 300s. It happened today and it didnt happen earlier today. I just put gas in too. After 3 tries i got it to go, but i had to hold the gas in for it to go up to about 2500 rpm then shift it as it was dropping. Could it be cause my alternator is taking a dump?
when it comes to idle I would look at your alt. last.
Do you have a fuel injected car or a carburator?
I good tune up might be the first thing I would do. At the very least change out the spark plugs with plain NGK plugs and look at the old ones.
wp
ok so this problem is still going on and i just replaced my alternator. So could it be something with the timing belt? cause ill hold the pedal at the same spot at 2k rpm and after like 3 secs it goes up to 2.5k rpm and after that its fine. any suggestions?
who replaced your alternator?Quote:
Originally Posted by HelenKellerrr
and that sounds like vac advance issue
Hey how do you check vac advance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HelenKellerrr
when it comes to idle I would look at your alt. last.
Do you have a fuel injected car or a carburator?
I good tune up might be the first thing I would do. At the very least change out the spark plugs with plain NGK plugs and look at the old ones.
wp
I would start with a bottle of injector cleaner.
I'm think he's dealing with fuel-injection as his thing on the left says he is currently driving an LX-i.
i replaced my alternator. and i also just put fuel system cleaner in. come to think about it, every time i put fuel system cleaner in, this seems to happen
I'd change brands of injector cleaner. Good gas is a better idea.
Many fuel system cleaners are just solvent based and relatively useless; It must contain a good dose of PEA. I know Red Line SI-1 has a good dose of PEA, and I believe the Chevron Techron still has it as well.
the idle has gone away for now, but i also used the whole tank of gas up that i put the cleaner in.
So, the cleaner worked?
Hey guys mine is still running rough and shakes the car,Someone told my it was the torque convertor what do you guys think.Would the urethane mounts I did make it shake this bad through the car and the steering wheel.
I wouldn't do urethane mounts for precisely that reason. I mean, they pay very smart engineers a lot of money to design mounts that absorb those vibrations. When you stiffen them up, you'll be getting a lot more vibration transmitted to the cabin.
Is the car actually running poorly or are you just feeling more vibration?
More vibration at a stop light,pop it into neutral and the shaking goes away.Someone said it could be my convertor,hate having an auto.
All things being equal, I'd say it's the mounts.
I'm gonna change so of the mounts,think I'll change front and back ones but leave the torque arm one that's urethane.do you think that would be ok.
Do the minimum and see how it works. You can always do more later.
Well I changed out the dog bone mount first to see if it gets any better.
Hey does anyone know the easiest way to get the front mount out.I jacked up the motor but can't get it to clear the top stud on the mount,the trans hits the frame.
you can unbolt the bracket from the front of the block (14mm bolt head) but you have to keep the motor jacked up. I cut the stud down on mine because it was a pain in the ass to find my one socket that can bolt down the mount.
When you are putting it back together line the parts up and bolt the bracket up first.
Hey I swap all the mounts except the drivers side and the vibration is almost gone.So i guess the urethane mounts aren't such a good idea.
