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I need to replace the Cap Set, Choke (electric choke) on my 89 Accord LX 5-speed. Honda no longer manufactures/stocks this part . . . but, they do carry it for the 89 LX with auto transmission. That part # is 16014-PH4-306. My question is: Will this electric choke work on my LX 5-speed or are the carbs completely different? I also believe the above listed part works on the 89 DX 5-speed, too, it's just not listed for the 89 LX 5-speed. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
That really isn't a common part needing replacement, what happnd ?
They should be intrchangable since theres no difference in carbs or choke function between the transmissions.
The fast idle pull off system is much more troublesome on these. They are separate from the choke opener.
During winter the RPM's were around 2500 and wouldn't come down for a half hour, or so, of driving. Took car to import mechanic that specializes in Honda and they diagnosed the electric choke but wouldn't fix it because the part was no longer available. The weather warmed up soon after that and the problem disappeared. Two days ago, after a night of heavy rain, I left for work and the car did just the opposite. It started dying at intersections and low RPM and hasn't stopped since. It acts like it's flooded-missing and hard to start, unless you put your foot to the floor. I actually found the part that was diagnosed as needing repaired and it's being shipped. I'm now worried this may be a bigger problem than the electric choke/choke coil/cap set,choke/whatever. Any help is appreciated. Unfortunately, I have limited mechanical skills when it comes to carbs.
my car was doing the same thing. when it was colder out it would idle high, 2k up to 4k. when it warmed up the car ran fine for one weekend then started dying all the time, especially when i went to stop. but mine seemed to be starving of fuel even though we adjusted the inlet screw to allow more fuel in.. sometimes it would start to die whilst driving, would have to dump the clutch to start it up again.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ydnar
my choke works properly and i modified the carb a bit and made the secondary for the idle mechanical. relies on idle screw now..
same boat as you lol.
If I was sure it was the choke I would have saved some money and converted to a manual choke, but it's not for everyone, some tire from the manual adjustments and from poorly made or installed manual kits so they find it better to repair the auto choke.
Have you checked your coolant system, there are parts of the carb that rely on coolant temp to operate properly, sometime it's a simple problem that they don't see coolant if the level is low or if there are air pockets.
I replaced the choke coil and it ran fine for a week and then the bottom fell out. It starts fine and runs like a top till it begins to warm up and then the idle falls off. The car will die at low rpm or idle so low (250 rpm) the car shakes and is at the point of stalling. The exhaust at idle smells rich and at slower speeds there appears to be a miss from time to time, but no problems at highway speeds.Quote:
Originally Posted by A20A1
I checked radiator and coolant is a little low (app 1 1/2"-2" below cap). Will fill and bleed cooling system and see if this helps. I'd like to check IACV but can't find it. Does anyone know where this is. Thanks for any help and for this suggestion.:flash:
Do you mean Idle Air Control Valve or Intake Air Control Valve?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ydnar
The Idle Air Control Valve is part of the FI and is connected to the throtle body for the FI. Sicne you have a carb, you will not have this.
The Intake Air Control Valve (Intake Air Control Door) is in the air cleaner with a control diaphram on top of it. It is located where the hot air duct from the exhaust connects to the air cleaner.
If your issue was with the Inake Air Control Door, you woudl have a rough idle when teh engine is cold, not when it is warm.
You probably have the idle speed set too low. The idle speed set screw is on the back of the carb (the side facing the passenger compartment) and should have a plastic knob on it that you can use to turn it by hand to set the idle speed.
The idle should be set to 750 RPM +- 50 RPM on most, but if you have the original hood, it will have an emissions sticker on it that will indicate what the idle speed shoudl be set to.
Adjusting the throttle stop screw is fine, but if there is something else wrong the higher idle will only mask the problem. Turning by hand may be difficult with the hoses in the way, I used a flat head to rotate the knob, pushing it from on top, the hole at the back end of the knob also receives a Allen wrench/Hex key but I forget the size.
