Help please...probs converting auto to manual

So...I haven't posted for a bit b/c I'm having a so-called mechanic convert my auto to a manual...it's taken some time now...I ordered a manual transmission from man-trans (since some people gave them high reviews here)...the converstion is pretty much complete...however, the big kicker is that the mechanic says that there is trouble with the new tranny shifting into fourth and it will either grind or pop back out...also, there were some other probs. he had, such as the throw-out bearing not fitting right from a parts car tranny and other stuff that I can't remember right now...so he called me today and said "good news" everythings good to go...except the new tranny grinds and/or pops out of fourth...he said he would put the old tranny from the parts car in for me instead and see how that worked...but he wants full payment first, prior to putting in the old tranny...any thoughts would be appreciated...sorry in advance...it's late and I have trouble conveying everthing...thanks again...

I wouldn't farm out an oil change, much less a tranny conversion. If you had posted up what you were intending, I would have urged against it. If you can't do the work yourself, then you pretty much have to do what your mechanic suggests. He isn't going to warranty anything, of course, so if you have any more trouble it will come straight out of your pocket. Learn to do your own work is the lesson here, I guess. Sorry.

I test drove the car today...it goes into 1st, 2nd, 5th and reverse...smooth enough...However, it grinds going into 3rd every time...and it won't shift into 4th...he is adamant that it's the tranny...what else could the problem be...or does it sound like a typical tranny issue...????

Hopefully a pilot bearing was put in the back of the crank.
Kinda sounds like the shifter needs checked if its only 3&4, how does it feel in those positions with just moving it in those with clutch in and parked?
Edit: i don't see pilot bearings mention in the how to so anybody know if one is used? Its commonly overlooked in other swaps.

No pilot bearing.

Well...I've tried the search before I replied, so that I don't sound like a complete noob...Some people are saying that pilot bearings aren't necessary b/c our trannys are supported internally by two bearings...and someone mentioned this:
"ok i figured out this one.
On 87 and older models there was pilot bushing. since the end of the input shaft is smaller on 86-87 accord and prelude you will need pilot bushing. they are awailabe ay any autoparts stores.
on 88-89 accord, the end of the input shaft is bigger in diameter, so it doesn't need pilot bushing.
So just remember, if you are going to install 86-87 tranny use pilot bushing.
I learn something everyday"

So...I have an 87 accord w/ 88 parts car...So just to clarify, is it a pilot bearing or bushing that you guys think may be missing?

Oh and roodoo2...the car is still at the mechanic's...however, next time I go down...I will shift while it's parked...and see how it feels...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 87hondalx

Well...I've tried the search before I replied, so that I don't sound like a complete noob...Some people are saying that pilot bearings aren't necessary b/c our trannys are supported internally by two bearings...and someone mentioned this:
"ok i figured out this one.
On 87 and older models there was pilot bushing. since the end of the input shaft is smaller on 86-87 accord and prelude you will need pilot bushing. they are awailabe ay any autoparts stores.
on 88-89 accord, the end of the input shaft is bigger in diameter, so it doesn't need pilot bushing.
So just remember, if you are going to install 86-87 tranny use pilot bushing.
I learn something everyday"

So...I have an 87 accord w/ 88 parts car...So just to clarify, is it a pilot bearing or bushing that you guys think may be missing?

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The internal parts of the 86/87 trans and the 88/89 are identical. The only difference is the shape of the case between the two. Otherwise, they are bolt on replacements for each other. If you go on to read the rest of that thread, you'll see that they had to get a bushing custom made for this application and that the machinist recommended against doing it, saying it was unnecessary at best and might damage the internal trans bearings at worst.

Full thread is here in case anyone is interested: https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35089

You can check the shifter for any bends or distortions. That might cause your problem, but I doubt you're going to know if something is wrong just by looking.

Good luck with this.

Thanks...the mechanic is going to swap in an older tranny for me b/c he's certain it's the tranny...so we'll see what happens...

I hope it works out then. I find it disturbing that a specialized re builder sent out a manual transmission with major issues like this.
Check them out, a lot of the better re builders will pay the labor for R&R the tranny if their warrantied unit was defective.

Thanks...roodoo2...I'll keep you posted...and I'm at the point where I hope it is the tranny...but I'm concerned, b/c mantrans seems to have a good rep. and I hope the mechanic is not screwing up on something and just assuming it's the tranny...time will tell...

Since the trans shifts easily into 1,2,5 and revers, it is most likely bad 3-4 syncros or something in the sift fork and rod for 3 & 4 (they use the same shift fork and rod). This is an issue inside the transmission, so your mechanic is right that changing the tranny will fix it if he puts in a good tranny.

Even the best rebuilders will make mistakes from time to time, that is why they waranty their work.

^^ I hope this new trans fixes your problem and you'll be cruising soon.