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I just bought a brand spankin new 800w 12" Sony Xplod Sub woffer... i built a box for it into the floor of my trunk.. (i'll try to get a pic online) anyhoo.. i hooked it up to a brand new 222w Sony Xplod amp and even at Peak power i get barely anything....i have a 45wx4 Sony CD reciever. So it sounds good.... just not great and loud... would you reccomend getting another 222w amp and doubling it? or getting a 750w Sony Xplod???? input is welcom... money is tight. so thanks!
get the 750... it will give u much more bass... but in general... XPLOD sucks!
Travis
Congratulations on the new stereo setup! You should get the bigger amp only if you want it really loud, I have a 500 watt amp running to my 10” sub, and that’s plenty loud for me. I would love to see your setup in the trunk, as I’ve been thinking about the same thing.
check the EQ on the deck... if that turns up nothing, then go for a bigger amp... those subs can rock good, but they like power (even though they don't take a lot of it)
Derick
geezum you guys... you really know how to make someone feel bad
what is octobor let's tell everyone theyre stupid month?????
I bought it cuz it was cheap.... and it sounds good... and im not a gettho thugsta so im not going to be bumping up the streets or entering a compitition anytime soon....
i just want my car to sound nice... and clear... and not give me hemoraging in the ears.
so ya know what.. i dont even know why i bother asking you guys anything.
you cant just answer a question... you have to put that extra "by the way" after it
fuck all of you
Sorry, I just edited my post, hope it makes you feel better.:D
What RMS Wattage is the sub rated at? You want to try to get an amp that puts out that much Wattage or a little higher. Otherwise when the sub tries to play real deap lows its going to clip. You can damage speakers by underpowering them. If they woble at all when there coming in and out the cylinder behind them can get distorted and will catch when it travels up and down creating scatching. If the cylinder becomes really distorted the speaker won't move back and forth at all.
id run the 750 but be careful about blowing the sub, might wanna keep ur gains down
dude get somethin that will kick the crap out of ur sub, that amp isn't going to do much except give you trouble, my advice is buy the 750 for ur sub, take the old amp and try to hook it up with ur mids for a boost in power, that way ur not wastin anything
i am suprice no one said to look at the level on the amp. it is probably set too low that is why you are not getting a lot of boom.
even 222W amp should rock.
check the level and make sure it is matching the voltage what comming out the HU.
*hates sony*
ive had 3 sony decks and none of them worked right and all skipped... 222w to a single 12 sealed wont be real loud but ill sound ok. Im assuming he knows what his gains do and how to set them.
The two sony decks i own have been great to me. But i am very picky on model. Both are high end sony decks and i wasnt gonna buy a sony this time cause i dont like any of the new decks until i found a 99 or 00 model brand new on ebay. This was the best deck sony has put out i beleive so far and do know why they didnt revise it and sell it after that other than its retial price its the best unit i have ever tested. You have to be real picky with sony stuff because they car audio products are not all up to market standards as far as their subs go.
TRUST ME.... when you get subs, you need an amp that is higher than the watts from the sub. (just dont MAX out everything)
if the sub watts are higher than the amp, you can destroy the amp and subs.
thats why higher watt subs arent that expensive, BUT higher watt amps are expensive!
btw, a capacitor will help if youre seeing dimmed lights... plus youll get a little more power out of your amp.
What the F**K are you talking about?! "sub watts"? Please, heed no part of this persons advice! I'll try to take this one part at a time...Quote:
Originally posted by hondaaccord_86
TRUST ME.... when you get subs, you need an amp that is higher than the watts from the sub. (just dont MAX out everything)
if the sub watts are higher than the amp, you can destroy the amp and subs.
thats why higher watt subs arent that expensive, BUT higher watt amps are expensive!
btw, a capacitor will help if youre seeing dimmed lights... plus youll get a little more power out of your amp.
If you get a sub with the wattage printed on the cone ( :rolleyes: ) then first off, you bought a cheap, cheap sub, that is going to be able to take probably a third of the power on the cone without blowing. Second, find the subs specs and find the RMS wattage of the sub. That is the amount of power the sub can take THERMALLY before the voice coil (the magic doohicky that turns wattage into movement of the cone) melts. The MECHANICAL handling of the sub can be exceeded below the thermal RMS wattage, so you have to be careful about what kind of box you put it in.
The above in a nutshell: Find the sub's RMS wattage and don't put more to it from the amp's RMS wattage than that.
As for the high-wattage amp comment, amps put out power almost universally the same. That is why high wattage AMPS are CHEAPER than high wattage SUBS!! Amps just produce power, and a watt is a watt, no matter if it comes from a JBL 1200.1, or a Sinfoni 60.1 (a $1000 amp). The DIFFERENCE is that the JBL has a terrible crossover, and is not a very high quality build, so it won't last as long in unfavorable circumstances. The Sinfoni has an amazing crossover, loads of features, and rock-solid build quality, as well as it's prettier (yes, you pay for looks a lot more than you'd think in a LOT of amps).
Look at a Brahma 15. It's an unbelievable sub. Right around $500. You could get a JBL 1200.1 (around $250) and run the Brahma on that and it would be ridiculously loud, and ridiculously accurate (because the amp has almost nothing to do with accuracy, it just provides power). The sub is twice as much as the amp... HMMMMM.
I don't know what you were smoking before you wrote that, but I want some :)Quote:
if the sub watts are higher than the amp, you can destroy the amp and subs.
Amps can only be destroyed by running them with a lower load than they are rated for I.E running an amp rated at 400watts into 4 ohms at 2 ohms, it would overheat and could quite possibly break. You can also destroy amps by doing nasty things with unfused electrical lines to them, but that is above and beyond the normal call of car audio ;)
Subs can ONLY be destroyed in 3 ways:
1) exceed the thermal limits of it. The voice coils can only handle so much power before they melt. Play lots of music beyond this power limit, and bye-bye voice coil, bye-bye sub.
2) exceed the mechanical limits of it. Over-excursion. Playing 10 hz tones on the sub in a ported box tuned to 30 hz at full power is a fun way to blow a sub. It'll move in and out super far and tear stuff, yay! :)
3)manufacturer defect. Something's wrong straight from the factory, I think this one speaks for itself :tongue:
As for the cap, caps do next to nothing to solve problems. Upgrade your 3 "magic" wires underneath your hood, or get a bigger alternator to solve dimming, don't use a cap, it won't help much at all.
Sorry for the verbal abuse, but I hate seeing myths and false information perpetuated.
wOOt wOOt!
Go Brahma! Go JBL! GO 87DXhatch for settin all this shitt straight... some guys on here have no clue about car audio and how it werks!
Travis
they are caled x-plod for a reason
can u post pics of ur trunk? i still wanna see how that looks
Check your wiring inside your sub, it may be loose. Its what happened on a friends. Grounded out. Double check it and pay close attention.
If it "grounded out" then there would be NO sound, he says that it's just weak.Quote:
Originally posted by GhettoAccord
Check your wiring inside your sub, it may be loose. Its what happened on a friends. Grounded out. Double check it and pay close attention.
It's a Sony Xplod 222watt amp, which probably means 222 watts peak, and somewhere in the upper 100 watt range rms. That much power, unless coupled with a very efficient sub, will not produce a lot of bass in a sealed box. Go ported, however, and you're into a whole new realm... :D
But he's not ported.
So he's got 2 options if it isn't loud enough:
1) clip the HELL out of the amp to get the extra power out of it, and hope and pray that the sub doesn't blow, or sound like crap (which it would probably eventually do both).
2) get a more powerful amp
Peace :wave:
It may be a LOOSE connection, therefore not all wire in contact with one another. And if it is moving around it could touch at times but not all the time. It might be some other wire also. I'm just tossing out ideas.
Naw, I double checked everything before I did a final install, it's all snug tight. I think my amp is just weak... I'm probably going to get a new 750w Xplod this summer.
How much is the sony? Give me the specs you have and the power you want, and I'd be willing to bet you I could find a better amp for cheaper.
Try me ;)
dogg don't ever buy a xplod stereo or amything they suck ass real bad go with pioneer
i had some xplod equipment in my car for a while, i realized that it is good for what you pay for it, but it eventually needs to be replaced with some serious stereo equipment
