Car died while driving...

89 LX Automatic. Got off work, car started fine. A couple of minutes later it just lost power and the engine died. I replaced the pump a few months ago, I can hear it energizing. The engine turns but it sounds sluggish, dragging. Haven't done any diagnostics yet. The battery light didn't come on, so I am guessing the alternator is fine.

A few years back, the something happened...that time the timing belt had a few teeth stripped. Hope is not that again...I'll post any updates so I can give you a better idea on what's going on.

11/06/13

Just trying to get an idea of what the problem is before I start working on it.

Fuel pump about 5 months old. Energizes.
Fuel filters new, replaced at the same time as the pump.
Battery also replaced at the beginning of summer.
Spark plugs and wires replaced just last week.
Starter replaced new this year

So will check for fuel, will check for spark at the plugs, will check for timing belt condition and see were it takes me. Just realized that I didn't replace the dizzy cap and rotor...

Took the timing belt cover off...try to start it, I hear the starter but the timing belt is not moving....

Removed spark plugs and turn the crankshaft manually...the belt doesn't move. I looked down as far as I can see and it appears the timing belt stripped at the bottom...so I guess this as they say is that. Timing belt is stripped. So I am going to get a timing belt, oil pump gasket and camshaft seal since I will have all that off. Anything else I should replace check while I am doing this job?

Water pump maybe and the tensioner.

apache07x thanks for the tip....here is were I am stuck at. I am having a hard time removing the crankshaft pulley bolt.....this is an automatic...any suggestions? Before I go out and buy an impact wrench?

Try to rent one if you can. I had to use one to get my bolt off. Maybe use a breaker bar if you can get enough leverage on it, that's kind of an akward spot to be working in.

Check your valves while you are at it, I find it suspicious that this has happened once before. There shouldn't be enough resistance on the belt to shear off teeth. Maybe the heat, since you're in AZ. Anyone else have thoughts?

Crank bolt came off....didn't want to mess around and bought an impact wrench from Harbor Freight ( item 69606 )...on sale for 37 bucks ( with 25% ) coupon. So now I hope everything else goes smooth...

Niles, for that price I just had to buy it to avoid the hassle...hope the valves are OK....yes it is strange that it happened again...then again, the last time that I replaced that belt was in 02...so this one is on my for not replacing it when it was due...goes to the wall of shame...

Harbor Freight always has what I need :D

Done. Car starts. It is idling a bit high, but hope I can take care of that when I do the timing.

Sweet. Glad you got it going.

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Same here apache07x...

Lesson I learned from this one is, I will replace this belt every 60000 miles. This is the second time it happens ( it lasted 10 years since the last time it stripped) and both times the valves were ok. The one thing about changing the belt is the crank pulley bolt. I am glad I bought the impact wrench it saved me time and frustration. ( and it was cheap )

Also, it always makes me sweat rotating the camshaft to align the marks with the belt off. Specially when the shop manual says " Never" to do it with the belt off. But then again, if the belt fails how in the world am I going to align the cam-pulley but with the belt off? Oh well, it is done.

So if you are doing a timing belt replacement and need an impact wrench to remove the crank bolt. Pm me and I'll be happy to lend it to a 3geez in Tucson. Is electric so all you need is an outlet.

I'm a little late I know, but on an auto, you can put a heavy screwdriver down the timing inspection hole to stop the drive plate. Then you can remove the crank pulley bolt with ease. I used an impact socket extension on mine before I swapped to stick.

Glad you got the car rolling again.

You know, the one thing that I haven't been able to find is...how to tighten the crank pulley bolt. I did read on the manual to set the transmission in gear and apply the parking break. Does that apply to automatic as well? I just hit it with the impact wrench a couple of times. But I would feel a lot better if I use my torque wrench and tighten it to specs. ( 108 ft-lbs)

So to tighten it ( Manual or automatic) is to set transmission in gear, and apply parking brake?

Pretty sure I answered this in your other thread, but drop a screwdriver or large socket extension into the timing hole to jam the driveplate. Then you can use a torque wrench without any worries.

Dr_Snooz,

Honestly, it makes me really nervous to put the screwdriver into the timing hole, I am the " what is the worst that can happen if I do this" kind of guy. It is not that it wouldn't work, has more to do that I am too chicken to try it. I am going to try putting the car in gear, apply the brake and see how it goes. Again, I did torque it, but I can't tell if it was 108 or 300 lbs. So just for my piece of mind, I'll torque it properly asap. Thanks for your idea though, if mine doesn't work, I'll use yours.

A giant screwdriver is how I did mine, and it's actually the exact instructions in the Haynes manual lol

Remember that the drive plate bears all the engine torque which, as it so happens, is about the same amount of torque as a properly torqued crank pulley bolt (108 ft-lbs). The engine block is made of thick cast iron that holds the transmission in the engine bay, even over deep potholes. The worst that can happen is that you shear off the end of your screwdriver and it falls into the bellhousing. If you do that, you'll be removing the transmission to get it out. And you definitely will have to get it out before running the car. I prefer to use a thick, chunky 1/2" impact socket extension but a screwdriver will work. If you figure out a better way though, definitely let us know.