driveaxle

How do i remove and replace the passanger side drive axle?? :confused:


:stupid:

it is hard to explain,
go to autozone or advance auto parts and get manual, Haynes is ok, but Chilton is better. I used manual, and took me like 3 hours.

take off wheel
remove big nut on the out side of the rotor right in the center
unbolt the lower part of the suspension
pull out the complete axle

this is a basic brake down GO GET A MANUAL!!!!

THREE HOURS?! I replaced a driveaxle in 30 minutes!

There's not much to it really, except that FRIGGIN HUB NUT! If you don't have a breaker bar, now's the time to buy one. You'll also need the hub nut socket. Ask your auto store tech, he'll know what it is.

Anyway, here's a quick rundown of what you'll need to do.

With the wheel still on the ground, break the hub nut loose and remove it. It's dented in to prevent it from coming loose, so you'll need to get your flathead screwdriver and hammer to tap it straight again. If the nut has been there for a long time, it's gonna be a BASTITCH to remove, trust me.

After you remove the hub nut, raise the wheel and place the car on jackstands. Remove the tire. Unbolt the brake caliper, remove it from the hub and ziptie it to your spring. Do not seperate it from the brake line and DO NOT LET THE CALIPER HANG BY THE BRAKE LINE.

Unbolt the two bolts directly below the upper control arm (10mm) and remove the metal piece it was holding. This should reveal the castle nut for the upper balljoint. Remove the cotter pins from the tie rod end, the upper balljoint and lower balljoint. Loosen the castle nuts, but DO NOT REMOVE THEM. If you seperate the joints with the nuts off, they'll seperate violently and WILL injure you (I sliced my hand pretty bad learning that lesson.) Using a joint seperator, seperate the tie rod from the spindle arm and set it aside. Next, seperate the upper balljoint, and then the lower balljoint. Lift the spindle arm out and pull the driveaxle out of the hub. Set the spindle arm aside.

Now, all that should be there is your driveaxle, dangling on the lower suspension.

Now, unbolt the damper fork to lower suspension bolt. Don't worry, the damper fork won't shoot itself into the pavement. Next, unbolt the damper fork from the strut (It's a pinch bolt on the backside of the damper fork on the top. Remove the damper fork.

Here's where we actually remove the driveaxle...

(If you were considering changing your tranny fluid/oil, now's the time because some of it will leak out when you pop that driveaxle out of your transmission.)

Place a prybar between the transmission and inner CV joint. Pry in the direction of the CV joint as to not damage the transmission. You'll hear a slight pop, and the driveaxle will start to come out of the tranny. Slide the driveaxle out. Yep, that's tranny oil you're seeing.

Install your new driveaxle by inserting it into the transmission, making sure the splines are lined up and the snap ring is installed on the end of the splines (You'll see it.). Using moderate force, grip the driveaxle by the axle itself and slide it into the tranny.

Time to reinstall! Slide the damper fork onto the strut, but do not install the pinch bolt yet. Instead, install the fork to lower arm bolt, but do not tighten it. Now, line up your fork and install the pinch bolt. Tighten the lower suspension bolt. Oh, by the way, make sure the driveaxle is in between the damper fork :lol Line up the splines on the outer CV joint and slide it into the spindle arm (this may take two people). Slide the balljoint ends into their respective holes, and bolt down the castle nuts. Make sure the openings in the castle nuts line up with the holes in the balljoint studs. This is for reinstallation of the cotter pins (VERY IMPORTANT). Reinstall your brake caliper, making sure that none of your brake pads or other goodies fell off or got misaligned. Reinstall the tie-rod end, once again lining up the castle nut with the holes in the stud so you can reinstall the cotter pin. Replace the metal protector back on the upper balljoint stud. place the new hub nut on the driveaxle end (just hand tight, you can't torque it while it's lifted). Reinstall your tire and lower the car.

Torque the hub nut to ONE HUNDRED FIFTY foot-pounds. (If I'm wrong, correct me.) Using your screwdriver and hammer, notch the hub nut. You'll see where it's supposed to be notched.

Now, take your car for a test run. If you come back in one piece, drink to a job well done!

Once again, if I missed anything, or mis-stated anything, post it along with the corrections.

-5150 :bandit:

very nice how to sabz ! :super: !

just one thing i wanted to add ! the joints ( upper & lower and tie rods ) are bitch to seperate ! if this seperator don't work use a big fuckin hammer ! :D

MIKE