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I've been looking around and so far it looks like B+G makes springs with the rates and drop that I want, and Bilstein seem to be the way I'm leaning for struts. Does anybody have any horror stories about either of these , or know if they make a good combo?
I tried running the bilsteins on the H&R's, which if you look at the list I made are much softer than the B&G's. They do not have what it takes for duty with stiffer lowering springs. I pulled them after less than 5k and replaced them with the Koni's. Night and day differance. I only went with the Bilsteins cause a tech their screwed up and told me their 30% stiffer than oem accord struts, WRONG their only 15% stiffer, not good enough. Only Bilstein Sport struts are 30% stiffer, but you can't get those for our cars.Quote:
Originally posted by BMS
I've been looking around and so far it looks like B+G makes springs with the rates and drop that I want, and Bilstein seem to be the way I'm leaning for struts. Does anybody have any horror stories about either of these , or know if they make a good combo?
BTW, I sent the Bilsteins back to Bilstein and had them revalved for much stiffer springs. Once they were revalved they did kick butt, but out of the box, they suck with lowering springs. Get the koni's. And several members have complained about the Tokicos being to soft in the front, and the kyb's are only oem replacements so you want to stay away from those as well.
From what I've seen the Koni's cost about 60 bucks more than bilstein's. Does the cost of revalving exceed the 60 dollar diff?
Smart man;) Yeah it does. Koni's $424 Bilsteins H.D's $370, revalving $260 ='s $630 What you could do is only revalve the fronts. Our cars are allot less demanding in the rear. That would bring the total down to $500. Just a thought.Quote:
Originally posted by BMS
From what I've seen the Koni's cost about 60 bucks more than bilstein's. Does the cost of revalving exceed the 60 dollar diff?
I'd rather just save the 75 dollar difference and put it into a new rear sway bar.
Well that'll work to. Set the koni's to 1 1/2 turn's max rebound stiffness when you install them. Also, its really important that the allen key you use to hold the strut rod from turning, be a tight fit.
I saw on Koni's web sight that to adjust them you push the strut all the way in and turn. Is this the adjustmet you speak of?
On my other post you also mentioned that 10/10 performance would be something more than HR springs. By looking around this site, and readng the thing on stiffness over stock, I have come to the conclusion that the BG springs would more of a 10/10, and more what I'm looking for. Agree?
Yes, I'm glad to see some benefitting from that post in the way I'd hoped it would.
I'm only all too eager to learn. I've only had the car 6 weeks, and only joined here recently. Looking through this stuff I realize that I've hit a goldmine of info about a car I'd otherwise be lost about.
Well I'm glad to do my part to help the members. It's really a great car and it respond's so well with the right suspension parts.
If only I had the dough to put my info to use. I first need to get my timing belt replaced, and probably a tune up. I also read that my car has two fuel filters, one just off the tank and one in the engine bay. My fiend, who's dad owns a local performance shop, suggested that I take he one just of the tank out altogether, and just run a larger one in the engine compartment. It's tempting to me, but I'm worried that there are two on there for a reason. What do you think?
Well I agree it has 2 for a reason. And I'll add in being a member for over 2 years I've never seen that "at the tank" filter be a problem for reliablity. Just my 2 cents.Quote:
Originally posted by BMS
If only I had the dough to put my info to use. I first need to get my timing belt replaced, and probably a tune up. I also read that my car has two fuel filters, one just off the tank and one in the engine bay. My fiend, who's dad owns a local performance shop, suggested that I take he one just of the tank out altogether, and just run a larger one in the engine compartment. It's tempting to me, but I'm worried that there are two on there for a reason. What do you think?
I want to replace them anyway, so I'll just stick with that. I have all the records for my car, and not a one of them has anything about fuel filters. Unless she changed them herself, I'd say their ovedue. I replaced the one off my old car after it hadn't been changed in six years, and it looked like a chunk of charcoal. Maybe I'll gain some HP with the change!
