Printable View
you'll need to go to the yard, possibly a locksmith could repin a couple of cylinders to your existing key, or at least make a key to fit a junkyard set, your other option is rear door handles from a sedan,metal to instead of plastic, this eliminates the front locks, then you use keyless entry with your alarm, it's easy to add actuators to the front door mechanismQuote:
Originally Posted by TKP89
I never thought of aftermarket actuators, now that i'm thinking about it the keyless entry sounds pretty awesome. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
If you are talking about those little plastic clips that keep the rods in place, you should be able to get some that work at the parts store. Dorman makes an assortment in those "Help" packages.Quote:
Originally Posted by TKP89
but a lot of hatchbacks had plastic door inserts for the handle, the sedan ones are metal and a lot cleaner without the lock, i have mine on the ehelf ready to put in, there are number of ways to rig a backup system to get in the car if you eliminate all the outside locks and you have a system failureQuote:
Originally Posted by 2geeSEi
but a lot of hatchbacks had plastic door inserts for the handle, the sedan ones are metal and a lot cleaner without the lock, i have mine on the ehelf ready to put in, there are number of ways to rig a backup system to get in the car if you eliminate all the outside locks and you have a system failure, you need a system you can activate from outside with it's own power supply, usually alkaline batteries, as they are long term power stable, and it's own actuator to open a door or pop the hatchQuote:
Originally Posted by 2geeSEi
the door handles are metal, and if i need to get in it if the power locks were to fail i could just use the hatch, i'll try to post a picture of what broke off, btw do you guys recommend any certain door lock kits and actuators?
Yeah, that doesn't look like a clip. Is that where it connects to the inside door handle?
Yeah, the part that connects to the handle still fits, but whatever held the rod to the actual lock broke off.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2geeSEi
well using sedan rear handles eliminates the lock hole, the handle on a hatch is metal but the plate the handle is attached to is plasticQuote:
Originally Posted by TKP89
Can you find the part here:
Honda Automotive Parts
ohh okay i see what you mean. I'll probably head to the junk yard this weekend to A. see if they have any rear sedan handles, or B. find the part i need from another hatch or coupe. I'm a little worried though because i haven't seen any 3rd gen accords around here, so i hoping there will be at least one at the junk yard.Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
I couldnt find it on there :/Quote:
Originally Posted by 2geeSEi
I was thinking #19 could be it. It doesn't look like the clips, which are #31.Quote:
Originally Posted by TKP89
well im going to the yard tomorrow, i know they have at least one 3rd gen accord, but i don't know if its a sedan or hatch, but hopefully i'll find the piece there, and while im at it look for things like arm rest and cup holders.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2geeSEi
Those would be sei only items,good luck.
i know, but one can hope lol :tongue:Quote:
Originally Posted by import racer
I have some sei stuff, see this thread: https://www.3geez.com/forum/classic-a...her-stuff.html
That is part of the lock/latch mechanism. They are the same part number for the hatch and coup.Quote:
Originally Posted by TKP89
i meant aftermarket keyless entry kits, sorry for the confusion.Quote:
Originally Posted by HLW
just got sedan rear door handles at pull a part, also as a side note picked up some rear mud flaps, mint sun visors, a ton of fuses, and a few small pieces of interior trim all for 33 bucks.
Good question. 3 of my studs for the exhaust manifold that are pressed into the head have broken over time. Anyone know if and how to replace these studs?
Another good question. Where can i get a sunroof seal for our LXi's? I can't seem to find one new and mine leaks pretty bad in the rain.
The Exhaust manifold studs are not pressed in they screw in. New ones are available from the dealer. You need to extract them with a bolt extractor. If there is not enough to grab on to, you can use the type of extractor that you drill a hole into the broken stud, hammer the extractor in and unscrew the broken stud. using penetrating oil will help removal.Quote:
Originally Posted by firefighterwhite89
Thank you. I will be replacing all of them shortly. I'll post where I get them from other than the dealer. Dealer prices are usually wayyy to high for me.
Sent from My Samsung Galaxy Prevail
I would assume I could take two bolts per stud and tighten them against each other and remove them that way?
Sent from My Samsung Galaxy Prevail
If you still have the stud sticking out, that is possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by firefighterwhite89
If the threads are messed up.you can helicoil them with 5/16-24 helicoils and use a common fine thread coarse thread exhaust stud, the 5/16 studs will usually clear the stock exhaust manifold holes,or require them to be enlarged a very small amount. I say use these because the 5/16 studs and helicoils are much more commmon. You can also use arp studs
The check engine light comes on and stays on like every other time i drive the accord, i dont see any obvious problems, do you guys have any ideas on what it could be, the ecu blinks 13 times, if there is any corrilation between the two. thanks!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/technical...ro-sensor.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by TKP89
My car has green coolant in it, isn't there a specific coolant for these cars. I thought it was like blue or something. Am i wrong?
Thanks! that was the problem, lol it seems like they're piling up.Quote:
Originally Posted by RAZR
They just use regular coolant.Quote:
Originally Posted by running strong
Nope i run green coolant in mine. Here is no specific colored coolant for Honda. but for power steering fluid you must use OEM Honda fluid only!Quote:
Originally Posted by running strong
Quote:
Originally Posted by running strong
The green coolant is the conventional coolant that was used by all cars through 1989. Some cars still used it in the early 90s models.Quote:
Originally Posted by RAZR
When the car manufactures spec'ed different formulations of coolants to increase the service life of the coolant (longer intervals between changes) they new formulations were colored differently to identify them as different from the conventional green and each other because they are not compatible with each other.
The blue coolant was used on Hondas from the late '90s. As far as I was able to find in my research, it was green coolant in disguise. It seems that Honda used all the coolant confusion to pull a fast one on its customers. To be fair, the blue color indicated a long-life 5-year coolant, vs. the 2 year green coolant that was common at the time.
Long and short: use green coolant in your 3g and be happy!
this definitely is a noob question but do you guys know if Polk Audio DXi651 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers — also fit 6-3/4" openings at Crutchfield.com will fit in the doors? or should i just go for the shallow mount ones Polk Audio DXi651s 6-1/2" 2-way shallow-mount car speakers at Crutchfield.com ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TKP89
i have infinitys in the front and i had to cut the back of the basket. i would just buy the shallow ones because they are the same price.
So my accord is has a carburator, is there a choke? and if there is it the nob under the steering wheel? and also does anyone elses shake sometimes at stop lights?
The knob under the steering wheel is for adjusting the height of the steering wheel.Quote:
Originally Posted by yoyohance
I have a 88 honda accord, carborhated engine. I just replaced the fuel filters, fuel pump relay, and the fuel pump. When I changed the fuel filters and pump, it worked for about an hour and then stopped working. Since I know those are all good, what should I look at next to try to fix the car
I've installed plenty of new parts that were bad. Check that you're getting fuel to the carb. Better yet, verify proper fuel pressure if you can. Also double-check your work to make sure you don't have a loose connection or something.
where is the transmission dipstick on a 1988 honda accord?
There is no trans dipstick. You check the level by pulling the upper transmission fluid filling hole. The level should be right at the bottom of the threads of the bolt hole on a level surface.Quote:
Originally Posted by yoyohance
That's true for a manual transmission but what about an automatic?Quote:
Originally Posted by RAZR
Honda service manuals - The 3geez WikiQuote:
Originally Posted by derolph
1989 USDM Manual, page 15-28
would these work on 87 aerodeck MS-TUONTI OY ?
No. I do not think they'd work at all. Someone else that knows more about these will post shortly though. But, for the most part, that's not gonna work.Quote:
Originally Posted by mai-ck
Sent from my GT-P3113 using Tapatalk
Where does water runoff from the windshield go? Obviously, it flows downward but where does it go after it flows down below the windshield wipers?
Pop your hood up and look at each of your hood hinges. Right on the outer edge of the hinge is a hole about a half inch big or so. Those are the two drains that drain the water off.Quote:
Originally Posted by derolph
Sent from my GT-P3113 using Tapatalk
What type of LEDs can I use to replace the front door lights, trunk light, and glove box light?
I used DE3175 LEDs for the dome light and back door lights, they just seemed a little too big to fit in the other places.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I'm pretty sure when I've pulled these bulbs, all were always the same size and interchangeable. Are you sure the prongs are not bent in certain locations? I cannot see as to why Honda would use different bulbs for front and rear courtesy door lights in the 1980's.Quote:
Originally Posted by 89AccordLX89
When examining the bulbs in the front and rears the fronts were a bit smaller, both the same length just the fronts seemed a bit thinner
Your front door lights are BA9 LEDS most likely. The dome and trunk lights are 31mm Festoon bulbs, taillights are 1157 bulbs, IDR exactly what the glove box light is. I'm thinking it was a p168 which in LED is a T10 bulb. Gauge cluster has 5 T10 lights and 9 T5 lights. The switches on the left and right of the steering wheel are all either T5s or T5 LEDs minus the housing due to height restriction. EBay those lights. China has LEDs up to their eyeballs. Cost me a little over 25$ for all LEDs combined. Only lights that aren't LEDs are the headlights now. That's only because 300$ is a little much for LED headlights.Quote:
Originally Posted by 89AccordLX89
Sent from my GT-P3113 using Tapatalk
LEDs are so much brighter than stock bulbs. And they draw around 10x less power/amperage.
Sent from my GT-P3113 using Tapatalk
posting your first thread....does it take a while before you can see it or is something wrong?????
Nah, the system thinks you're a spammer and has sent the thread up to the boss man for approval. When he approves it, you'll see it come up.
Welcome in the meantime!
Will the Fuel Pressure Reading at the Fuel Filter Test Bolt read any higher/different than at the regulator/rail?
Does anyone know where I can get the little metal brackets that go around the sealed beam to hold it on?
Salvage yard, did you want me to get them for you when I go today? 15 plus cost to ship
Will same year prelude cv-axle fit my aerodeck honda prelude 4pyöräohjaus - Purkuautot - Nettivaraosa this is the lude model.
And will loweringsprings fit from dat car?
quick question, have attempted search function and cant get anywhere sifting through the old threads so don't bite me.
Will the rear bumper of a sedan fit a hatch? I sort of don't have any way of comparing them and parts recyclers in my area don't have the knowledge for cars this old anymore. thanks
This is Charlie's area of expertise, so I'll let him have the final say, but the front ends on all body styles are for the most part interchangeable. From the doors back, not so much. Short answer is no.
I havent been on the site for awhile, so maybe this has been answered before. The sunroof is not sealed, but like all oem sunroofs, depends on 4 drain tubes going to the 4 corners of the car. Usually, the rear drain tubes get plugged, and them when you put on the brakes, you get the water that has collected in the "pan" below the sunroof down the back of your neck. There's plenty of posts about how to clear the drains.
see previous post without quote.Quote:
Originally Posted by firefighterwhite89
They've been cleaned out already and I keep them flowing. Are you saying that they're supposed to leak and that's normal? I'm wondering where to get the rubber strip seal on the rear of the sunroof. The strip that completely lines the back of the sunroof and keeps water out as a seal.Quote:
Originally Posted by w261w261
Sent from my GT-P3113 using Tapatalk
When you say that "it leaks pretty bad in the rain," how do you know that? Is water dripping down inside? If so, the drains are not working.
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
hatch rear bumpers are totally different, both the cover and the metal insert, they only interchange with hatchbacks, but all year hatch bumpers interchangeQuote:
Originally Posted by Cody
Hey guys, this is probably one of the most stupid questions, but earlier today i went to fold down the rear seats in the hatch and when i pulled on the little knob things they just came out, I've tried to screw them in to no avail. hoping there is an easy fix to this, really need to be able to fold the seat down. Thanks guys.
Here is a pick of what i'm talking about, if it helps
Has anybody here order a molded carpet for their accord? Weather it be from ebay or rockauto. Experience ect..
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
I don't have a hatch, but I would guess that your plastic sleeve is stripped out. If you don't intend to take it off again ever, then fill it full of epoxy, jam it on the rod and let it cure overnight.Quote:
Originally Posted by TKP89
alright thanks! , was a little worried about messing it up more, but i'll give it a shot.
Why did HON-DUH go through and delete all of his posts? lawlz
someone probably has one of those on a parts car somewhere the internal plastic threads are stripped you just need a knob, if you cant find the right color, use some krylon fusion satin black and paint both black, it matches any of the interiorsQuote:
Originally Posted by TKP89
How to remove JDM Reading/Map light?
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps2f89e7b3.jpg
Last owner from my car for some stupid ass reason didn't actually reattach the mirror when they finished installing and I can't for the life of me understand how it comes off.
I have one for my 5th gen and it's very self explanatory how that one is pulled apart.
HELP!
It's probably one of those deals where you get to yank it off and then fix what you broke. :ugh2:
:( Damnit. I don't want to do it like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
I will keep thinking and keep searching. :( maybe I'll find something.
Looks to me , get a pick tool and pop off the grey section around the lights.
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
I'll give it a go, thanks. :) My dad was thinking the same, but I wanted a more definitive answer.Quote:
Originally Posted by 89T
Fingers crossed I don't scratch or break anything !
I doubt this is worth a new thread so I'm posting here to help my friend that I sold the sedan to. It's a 1989 LX-i with 160k. Other than the "main" fuel pump relay, what else could cause these cars to crank forever without turning over?
Distributor will make them do that. I've experienced that first hand.Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
Also have heard there is a coolant sensor that will cause them to do that.
Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
I only say that because that's what I ended up having to do with my coupe. I don't have a map light, but I do have those wonderful seat belt lights with buzzer above the rear view mirror. To disable the buzzer, I had to remove the cover. There were no instructions, so I made my best guess. Turns out that it was old and brittle and just kinda shattered in my hand when I put stress on it. I glued it all back together with Super Glue and it's still there (fingers crossed).Quote:
Originally Posted by Calabek
Definitely think yours through and proceed carefully. Just be prepared to do some triage.
Can anyone provide the sizing for our shift rod bushings? The two that go between the shift rod and transmission. I know they're obsolete BUT, my dads shop makes alot of polyethylene tanks for fire trucks and I may can get him to order a long rod and just cut us some replacement bushings. Anyone know the sizing? What's the original material made of?
Sent from my SPH-M840 using Tapatalk
Where can I find trim to headlight cover?
Junk yard, Ebay, or from a member on here. Trim like that is going to be hard to find. Good luck finding it.Quote:
Originally Posted by deucer9
Stock is rubber. Look up some of Rendon-lxi threads there is a bushin kit from I believe an integra that fit our cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by firefighterwhite89
I have looked at a few threads on here about poly bushings and it's almost like everyone has different part numbers when checking between them. Could someone please tell me which ones are the proper ones? I'd like to replace every bushing possible.
Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk
Chedda's has a kit with all the bushings in the shift rod and the torque rod to transmission bushing.Quote:
Originally Posted by firefighterwhite89
Web Store
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
Hey guys thanks for your help. :) I grabbed a flat head, stuck in between the grey part and the cream part and then just wedged it out. :) No scratches, no marks and no cracks or damages.Quote:
Originally Posted by 89T
:D Thanks again!
How do I take my front bumper off? Year 87.
I can see a screw on each side where the bumper meet the fender, and brackets/mounts holding the bumper on behind the indicator lights. I also see a few bolts on the underside of the body holding it on. What else am I missing? How do I take the signal lights off?
I did a quick search of 3geez and found nothing, but I may not of looked correctly. I apologise if I am creating spam
Thanks!
Glad you got it off intact.Quote:
Originally Posted by Calabek
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
Is your bumper the face-lifted one or not? (I think the aerodeck got the bumper one year before any other body style.) If the turn signal lenses are clear and not amber with the two screws in front, you must take off the fog light covers and look up to see the one screw to remove them. The screw is in a plastic housing so it cannot be lost so all you have to do is loosen it until the lens can fall out. Then there are two 12mm bolts on each side that need to be removed. Only remove the two 12mm that are above each other, not any of the other ones (if that makes any sense). You will also need to remove the four screws near the fenders as well as the two or three bolts underneath the body. At this point the bumper should slide forward off the frame, with the metal reinforcement and foam padding.Quote:
Originally Posted by Calabek
I'll give this a go after shopping, thank you. :) that's the only thing I didn't try, pulling off the fog light covers. hahahah. I tried to pull one off but was afraid I'd snap it, so I left it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
And yes, mine is pre-facelift. Here's a picture to confirm:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...29639796_n.jpg
That's a face-lift bumper for sure.
That is a face lifted front bumper for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Calabek
You have a face-lifted bumper. There are six plastic tabs that break easily on each cover. I pull them out top first, one tab at a time. Once you get this far look up to the under side of the turn signal housing and you will see a hole in the bumper foam. You can stick a cross-style screwdriver into the plastic housing holding the screw. Loosen it until you can pull the housing out; the screw is on the outer side (the side closer to the sides of the car), and the housing comes out from the outside first as well (do not try to pull it straight out of the bumper).Quote:
Originally Posted by Calabek
Brilliant! This worked a treat! Thank you so much!Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
Unfortunately, I have this on the bumper - I don't know what it is and it's the only thing holding the bumper on the car (well, not holding). The screw holding it on is completely rusted out and I've almost rounded the screw :( It's a small Denso cylinder. Any ideas?
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps19baa06d.jpg
How is the cylinder connected to the car? If it isn't attached to the frame it should come off with the bumper cover.
It's attached like this:Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps5307a35c.jpg
It's okay, I got it off. It was just clamped on by that rusted screw. I got some locking pliers and unscrewed it. Bent the frame a little bit, it was on there pretty tight. Very rusted.
energy suspension also has one for a civic but it's the sameQuote:
Originally Posted by HLW
What is the cylinder?
