86 Honda Accord turbo build

Now that the car is running pretty good but at idle the gauge is everywhere on the air fuel ratio. Any ideas? do I need to change the way it's powered right now it's powered from pin A25 on the obd1 ECU . And the yellow wire hooked up to pin D14

Here's my O2 settings Neptune don't know if I have them right yet

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Originally Posted by Shane86

Now that the car is running pretty good but at idle the gauge is everywhere on the air fuel ratio. Any ideas? do I need to change the way it's powered right now it's powered from pin A25 on the obd1 ECU . And the yellow wire hooked up to pin D14

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Are you using the wideband as your only O2 sensor. So your trying to simulate the narrow band output im am guessing?

Not sure about this the setting have got to be on the internets someplace.

if your really lean like you showed the AFR will be inaccurate or all over the place. The closer you get to 14.7 steady state the easier it is to tune.

You got your fuel pressure steady like at 40 psi. Thats a pretty good base pressure on a Honda. Unless you got some kinda crazy injector set up.

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Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord

Are you using the wideband as your only O2 sensor. So your trying to simulate the narrow band output im am guessing?

Not sure about this the setting have got to be on the internets someplace.

if your really lean like you showed the AFR will be inaccurate or all over the place. The closer you get to 14.7 steady state the easier it is to tune.

You got your fuel pressure steady like at 40 psi. Thats a pretty good base pressure on a Honda. Unless you got some kinda crazy injector set up.

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Yes I'm trying to run the wideband as my only O2 sensor. It's not running lean anymore now it's showing its running around 10 and all over the place. stock injectors stock fuel pressure regulator. The signals wired into the yellow wire wideband wire should it be wired into the brown narrowband signal?

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Originally Posted by Shane86

Yes I'm trying to run the wideband as my only O2 sensor. It's not running lean anymore now it's showing its running around 10 and all over the place. stock injectors stock fuel pressure regulator. The signals wired into the yellow wire wideband wire should it be wired into the brown narrowband signal?

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That im not sure on that one they might need to be combined. I never ran one that way.

Go thru the prints again or ill try to pull them here in a minute and read thru it and see.

Not too sure about the erractic runing. maybe run it open loop with out the O2 senosr and just see if the maps are even close at a few RPM spots. Let the wideband log what your seeing.

EDIT:

Sound close?

Optionally, the YELLOW (Analog out 1) and/or BROWN (Analog out 2)
can be connected to the analog inputs of other devices such as data
loggers or ECUs. If either one or both of these wires are not being used
isolate and tape the wire(s) out of the way. The default analog outputs
are as follows: Analog output one (yellow) is 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V =
22.39 AFR. Analog output two (brown) is 1.1V = 14 AFR and .1V = 15
AFR


yellow and brow scale different.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord

That im not sure on that one they might need to be combined. I never ran one that way.

Go thru the prints again or ill try to pull them here in a minute and read thru it and see.

Not too sure about the erractic runing. maybe run it open loop with out the O2 senosr and just see if the maps are even close at a few RPM spots. Let the wideband log what your seeing.

EDIT:

Sound close?

Optionally, the YELLOW (Analog out 1) and/or BROWN (Analog out 2)
can be connected to the analog inputs of other devices such as data
loggers or ECUs. If either one or both of these wires are not being used
isolate and tape the wire(s) out of the way. The default analog outputs
are as follows: Analog output one (yellow) is 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V =
22.39 AFR. Analog output two (brown) is 1.1V = 14 AFR and .1V = 15
AFR


yellow and brow scale different.

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Thanks for all the help I am going to try to switch to the brown wiring and do a lot of testing to see if I can figure it out

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Originally Posted by Shane86

Thanks for all the help I am going to try to switch to the brown wiring and do a lot of testing to see if I can figure it out

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yeah brown for the simulated and yellow for the gauge sound right to me. Im thinking the gauge is 0-5v.

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Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord

yeah brown for the simulated and yellow for the gauge sound right to me. Im thinking the gauge is 0-5v.

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tested the brown no luck with that. Inspected all my wiring. Reading a little on line about it and someone grounded the dimmer switch separate then the Gage. i did that recalibrated and now we're in business victory:cheers:

To the next puzzle which would be Code 17 vss. Neptune it doesn't show that this is a error code the car is not running in limp mode. It just shows I have no VSS signal without that I can't enable two step or boost by gear.

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Originally Posted by Shane86

tested the brown no luck with that. Inspected all my wiring. Reading a little on line about it and someone grounded the dimmer switch separate then the Gage. i did that recalibrated and now we're in business victory:cheers:

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:cheers::cheers:

glad you got it figured out!! Good what year is your car again? I know for the 86-87 to get a vss you have to add a resistor in the cluster. There is a writeup on it here.

also you wont be able to run boost by gear because our transmissions dont have a sensor to let the ecu what gear is what. Just a vss

Yes 86. Now I just need the resistor to try that out. I heard I can get a cluster from a 89 to get a VSS signal

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Originally Posted by Shane86

Yes 86. Now I just need the resistor to try that out. I heard I can get a cluster from a 89 to get a VSS signal

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Here

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Originally Posted by Tdurr

Here

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Where can I get the 6K resistor only been able to find 5.4 or 6.8

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Originally Posted by Shane86

Where can I get the 6K resistor only been able to find 5.4 or 6.8

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RadioShack if there's one still open near you may be a Fry's Electronics also

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Originally Posted by obd0driver

RadioShack if there's one still open near you may be a Fry's Electronics also

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Radio Shack's in my area I'll check that out

Yeah its would be a good time to make a list stuff you need your you can use later because they are going out of business in the next month or so

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I installed adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Bumped it up from 38 to 40 the car is running better and better everyday

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Originally Posted by obd0driver

Yeah its would be a good time to make a list stuff you need your you can use later because they are going out of business in the next month or so

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I didn't know that I'll hit them up first thing in the morning thanks

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Originally Posted by Shane86

I installed adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Bumped it up from 38 to 40 the car is running better and better everyday

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Higher the fuel pressure the better the spray pattern.

Made a jumper for pin D4 scs- service check signal /timing jumper.and obdo to obd1 map sensor plug. And on the resistors my local radio shack is closed! Order some from eBay.to be continued

3k resistors

i did that didnt work. save your self the hassle an get a 89 accord cluster. your just wasting your time.

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Originally Posted by Rendon LX-i

i did that didnt work. save your self the hassle an get a 89 accord cluster. your just wasting your time.

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I'll try that before I go hacking into my harness

I may have a cluster. Ill check in the am

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