Thanks
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Thanks
hell yea! get it done!
You bet.
Attachment 7164
I'll leave these here.[emoji48]
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...2eb63e4a92.jpg
Mad scientists over here!
Mad as hell, like Jekyll and Hyde
Here you go tim... making a jig for a solid rear mount...[emoji48] http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...adba3c0c73.jpg
Ohhh yea. I am not sure what is going on with the trans-axle but the progress is looking good man!
I am removing the front mount all together. The plate will become the new side mount. There was nothing on the transmission that was strong enough to mount to. So this is the best alternative.
Ohh a jig... i see you!
No more messing around I see!
So what are you going to do with all that glorious space now?
For now the plan is to clean it up.
Solid rear mount.[emoji48]
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...d2ea74788d.jpg
Looking good!
I can't recall if you got your motor back from the shop all sorted out yet or not? Is the motor your test fitting to an extra block or the original one you were getting repaired?
That's the old block. I got a "new to me" block and had it machined. I got it back last Wednesday. I just want to sort out the mounts and such before I put it together.
Okay so. Bandsaw blade broke again. So I stopped working on on the motor mounts. I decided to see what was wrong with the clutch seeing that I have the old motor and transmission mocked up.http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...c303dcc4f9.jpg
So from 0 with the clutch fully depressed I've only got 1 5/16 inches of travel. Now from where I had the clutch adjusted to originally at full disengagement is an additional inch and a half past that 1 5/16 inch. Meaning that I need 2 13/16 of travel. So what I'm getting at is WTF. Will Somebody go out and measure those for me.? The Only real solution that i can seeI at this point is relocating where the clutch cable connects to the armature to about halfway down the armature.
This is about how much more pedal movement I need.http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...9ab9721c3d.jpg
I'd have to check mine to see if its similar at all.
I do notice though that compared to stock, the integra cable has less travel in it all together, I pretty much have it at max adjustment and there is enough pedal to shift normally but maybe 1/4 less than stock(pedal movement). Anyway, what I am getting at is that stock will probably be a better option to go if you need the most pedal travel you can get(I can't remember which you have, sorry).
I have the clutchnet red clutch and pressure plate with the aluminum flywheel
I also have the stock clutch cable
your cable might be going bad, replace that fucker. they are like 20-30 for a brand new one from autozone.
13 bucks. I'll pick one up!
even better. when mine came uncrimped and almost left me stranded a mile from my house -_-
Man that's affordable, I don't think I could get a price like that around here! Mind you, I don't think I could have piece of mind with a $13 cable doing an essential part of driving.
I hope that solves the problem though.
13 bucks and it was the only one in town. I'll take it! I hope that's it though.
So, I replaced the clutch cable and it made little to no difference. I used an old trick to gain more travel. I cut and trimmed the clutch pedal and slid it forward
about a half inch. Ant this is what I gained. The picture is with my phone resting on the Break pedal. Stock height and then modified height.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...dcf96c96ce.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...5855e9a427.jpg
Here's the adapter. I bolted it together just in case I needed more travel.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...e9e7278349.jpg
That's unfortunate about the new cable not being the quick fix.. dang.
So with the pedal modification do you now have the proper amount of movement? I suppose it's sort of hard to tell when you can't quite test it on a running engine. Nice handy work though!
There is more movement for sure. Enough is to be determined.
dang, that sucks. I hoped the cable was the problem...
I'll figure it out. I can get more with a different pedal adapter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 89T
Clutchnet is your problem right there. My green is the same way the cable is all the way out just hanging on the last two threads.
Only thing to fix it right beside getting a real clutch that fits is maybe cut the flywheel down enough.
I looked and the preludes cables are longer according to Rockauto but I have no idea if they hook up the same.
I like your motor plate idea!
This is one part of the reasons ive been looking for someone to make A2B plate so the we can go hydo and there are better options for clutches, flywheels, lsd, axles and dog boxes. Its been done twice before so its possible.
So we are saying that the pressure plate is the problem Or the flywheel? I have a stock set so I'll measure them up. Do you have the stock flywheel?Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord
Thanks on the motor plate comment. The hard part is keeping it simple so it can easily be duplicated.
I've gonna ahead and tired to contact the two members that have them to see if i can buy the schematic from one of them but never heard back from them. Here's a photo of what it looks like. I would assume that it's not much different then a H2B plate. The other cool thing i read one the build it that the fitment in the engine bay is like it was ment to be there and since the A20 trans doesn't have a trans mount you do have to run one if you dont want to. Attachment 7189
I already talked to JohnnyO. He no longer has it. I am trying to get ahold of jason.
Now on a side note.
The 2 flywheels are the same.
The pressure plate mounted with no clutch shows 3/32 of an inch of difference on the throw out bearing contacts. Now with the same clutch installed and mounted. There is 6/32 of difference that is just over an 1/8 of a inch.
Sweet keep me post on the plate. I'm willing to toss money your way to get it done. I also have a a20 block and B series trans ready to take to someone to have the r&d done.
I am comparing flywheels right now.
I can't find anything on jason
After research, it looks like Victor already had/has the ball rolling.
my clutchnet red pressure plate I had no more adjustment on my cable. its just the way things are. I had a transmission shop guy tell me that its because i used a aluminum flywheel and because it was lighten it was shorter than a stock flywheel and thats why my 3rd gear would grind. I laughed and told him he didnt rebuild my transmission right. trans failed after 20k and a rebuild. I just installed the trans that came in my coupe that had all integra gears but by then i went back to a ACT clutch with street disk. It had OEM pedal feel and i used the same cable and had plenty of adjustment. When i took out my pressure plate it looked like my Throw out bearing never disengaged and the fingers were worn down. I emailed clutchnet about it and they said they could replace the fingers for 125. I saved it but now it just on my junk pile
The fly wheel was the first thing that I checked. It seems to be a match to the stock counterpart. I agree that the pressure plate is the problem.
glad i didnt go with clutchnet...
I don't think the clutch is the problem. It's the pressure plate.
If you have all the parts already make one out of plywood and them take it to some one to machine it out. That will get you started.Quote:
Originally Posted by obd0driver
Yeah I'm horrible with that kind of stuff but ill see what i can do
Ask a buddy he's gonna trace them out for me them out for me. I'll have to pull my trans for this but it's not on the street.
I have both
Lol well.
Time.
any update on the traction bar? innovative is taking their sweet time.
Innovative isn't taking their sweet time. Everyone that has a car in the area is taking there sweet time. You can't test fit or measure with out the key component the car lol ahahahah. But isn't someone going there this week?Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
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Ace went in on Wednesday. The only member close with a b swap is Daniel and he is in bakersfield
All you need is an A series. The only difference is that front motor mount.
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Great build can't wait to see what kind of numbers this monster is going to put out
If I can ever work on it!
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You need to get something done! Lol hope you had a great Christmas
slacking jerry. get it done brother lol
well by the time this is done we will have the chedda bar installed.
yup mine will be here the 13th
Tbo I never said I was going to produce a bunch of bars. Usaully we are slow at work in the winter, but with the mild winter this year we have been slammed. I just did 12- 10 hour days straight. I am totally exhausted anymore.
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Are you still going for #1
Always! Theres big shoes to fill.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane86
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Lol I know you can do it:bow:Quote:
Originally Posted by 89T
I'll leave these here 2..https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5d4ac4d8b6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3bad6109b1.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Shane86
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Looking good so far
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I wish I had a stainless welder:sad2:
You can weld stainless with a mig.. Just sayin[emoji1].Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane86
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...206cfef733.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a694509381.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e7da2043e6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4456de38fa.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1088c2c348.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f35bc0fd28.jpg
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Some more pics.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...015074f776.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...848cf9b72c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6e990975c2.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by 89T
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Nice I'm doing the Accord dance right now:inout:Quote:
Originally Posted by 89T
89T is right, and I have done it with my little pro-mig 135 welder if you go look in my hatchback build for my stainless exhaust. You have to switch up your wire to something like 308L IIRC and the best is to use tri-mix gas. Co2/Ar can be used however it causes a bit of impurities and the weld. Now Tig is the shit for exhaust welding but requires a few other skill-sets and equipment that most wont have access to. In either case fabrication details like back purging the pipes when welding (like what 89T has done here) helps minimize corrosion from the inside out. devil is in the detailsQuote:
Originally Posted by Shane86
I didn't see the pipe sections well earlier on FB, but i realized these have a nice bevel for butt joining
Cool man thanks for the info I'll definitely be looking into it moreQuote:
Originally Posted by gp02a0083
What do you guys think.[emoji48] https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7b5abb25ec.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...26062db308.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e508fd8c52.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Shane86
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The idea behind it was to keep it as compact as possible, yet keeping the runners equal length.Quote:
Originally Posted by 89T
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Shit as long as it holds boost and makes power fuck what it looks like
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x2Quote:
Originally Posted by obd0driver
"The Devil is in the Details"Quote:
Originally Posted by obd0driver
89T is putting some careful thought into HIS design and fabrication rather than slapping some haggered stuff together with little to no thought at all...
Roughly half dozen things can be pointed out in the image that reflects that.
:thumbup:
So much manifold, awesome dude! Happy to see you're still rocking on with the project.
Deleting the brake booster and adding hydraulic clutch.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7993be0ffe.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ba1196cf28.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2a879afbc1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...99249cff60.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by 87roach
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what adaptor did you use for the booster delete?? and what size MC are you using? looks like the stocker. glad your still making progress my friend!
Stocker with an ef hushperformance adapter. 70 bucks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tdurr
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A few things lefthttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...580d9ca6f8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...362602a0bf.jpg
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Some very impressive work. I am definitely looking forward to the final product.
Little second gear RIP today. Its rich but it will do. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...970eec7286.jpg
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Nicely done brothers
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Very cool!
Keep it up man. Looking good 👍
This looks niiiiiiiice :D :D
New dashhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...519247f127.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ce8fd4b9f0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...83d5193ec5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...429a1b127e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f9388b408d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2be1b7d014.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...98d5997067.jpg
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Testing lightsTapatalk Cloud - Downlaoad File 20190901_185126_001.mp4
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Hey Jerry! Good to see you back at it again. She looks good! Did you repaint it??
Yes sir, I got it painted a couple of years ago. Still at it, slowly making progress.Quote:
Originally Posted by bullard123
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Glad to see it. Go go go!
I'm not very happy with the phantom grip lsd. It's a good way to introduce metal shavings to your gear box.
I didn't get any pics, but I went with a MFactory helical lsd.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3f0cb1f3ca.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ecac9e9d0d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4f56d2211e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9f5f10ddf9.jpg
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Owee!
Mid plate build. The rear mount broke so it was time for something different. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...303fd08263.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7e2ab9100c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...467af50d13.jpg
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This is awesome! What's the method of attachment for the front of it to the traction bar?
Yes sir, the front attaches to the traction bar. This is also before trimming the rear mount.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fixedit
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So you are going to make these, right? :rockon:
