/suprised pikachu face
Guess I'm staying in Tennessee for the rest of my life
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/suprised pikachu face
Guess I'm staying in Tennessee for the rest of my life
You got it, I'm in Nevada.
Okay
While following the instructions in my Haynes manual I have checked the timing and I can not see the mark, I have checked that they are there and I even re-marked it to make sure it is visible but no matter how I angle the light, move the distributor or rev the engine I can not see the mark with the timing light..
Attachment 9626Quote:
Originally Posted by InAccordance
Here is the pictures of the timing belt lined up.
Attachment 9627
Attachment 9628
It's kind of hard to tell from these pictures but it appears that everything is lined up. What kind of distributor is it the original or a remanufacturedQuote:
Originally Posted by 1989_3rdGenAccord
And when the gears are lined up is the fixed pointer at the T mark on the flywheel
No, the+ mark on the flywheel (I'm assuming is the T mark you are referring to) does not line up.
Sometimes there's two marks a t Mark and usually sometimes a circle approximately 15 degrees before top dead center. If it's not line up on the flywheel the timing is most likely off . So line up the mark on the flywheel and see where your cam gear sits
This is the cam gear with the flywheel mark lined up.
Attachment 9632
I need you to pull the camera back a little bit and take a picture I can't tell. I need to see the whole cam gearQuote:
Originally Posted by 1989_3rdGenAccord
Not enough room there for that, the silver line back there is the valve cover gasket and the grove on the right on the cam gear is the grove that needs to be lined up with the top of the head.
You can rest the camera on the driver side fender and take a picture.Attachment 9633
Before I can tell you to change the cam gear timing I need you to roll through the flywheel and be sure the only Mark you see is the cross
there is another mark, it has the number15 above it. According to the manual, that is the mark it should be on when setting the timing.
I assume that's the 15 degrees before top dead center mark when the distributor fires. I assume you come up to the 15 first before the cross
Put it on the 15 and see were the cam gears at
The distributor fires 15 degrees before top dead center your cam gear needs to be lined up at top dead center not 15° beforeQuote:
Originally Posted by 1989_3rdGenAccord
Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane86
Setting the spark timing The car needs to be warmed up and the idle set at 750 or lower. The vacuum lines to the vacuum advance need to be plugged or pinched off. You should then see the marks with the light hooked to the #1 spark plug. Higher RPMS or vacuum advanced hooked up may make the spark timing advanced and you wont be able to see it with a light the window is too small.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1989_3rdGenAccord
The cam and crank timing is different then the spark timing although they are related. The cam and crank are MECHANICAL timed. the cam needs to be lined up at TDC with the crank. TDC is the #1 piston at the top of its stroke. The camshaft has the intake and exhaust valves closed on the #1 cylinder at TDC. This is MAX compression and this is what you want.
Since the distributor runs off the cam if the cam is off the spark timing can be off as well.
Bit confusing but take one at a time you can figure it out.
EDIT: adjusting the distributor; advance timing the idle goes up retard the timing the idle goes down.
The People's Democratic Republic of California also requires ancient cars to pass smog. Though enough people have complained to my Assemblyman that he's working on fixing that. Or so he says.
This is a tooth off.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1989_3rdGenAccord
Okay, I discovered my problem. I was trying to line up the cam with the crank but it turns out that the tdc mark on the flywheel does not line up with the crank mark therefor causing my problem.
I have now lined up the tdc mark on the flywheel lined up with the cam and the rattle has 98% disappeared but when I use the timing light, I still can't see the timing mark on the flywheel and although it runs better still have the misfire. I will try some sea foam in the intake tomorrow. What does that mean when the crank doesn't line up with the timing mark on the flywheel? Anybody know?
you make it line up. You turn the crankshaft untill the mark lines up with the pointer. Then set the cam.
sounds like you are alot closer. I would move the distributor until you can catch the mark and see where you are at either too much advance or to much retarded. Im guessing with a misfire your retarded.
Remember both vacuum lines going to the distributor need to be pinched off. I WOULD NOT pull them since its very easy to break that little nippple off. Timing is off spark plug wire #1.
Wouldnt hurt to start with some new NGK V groove or cooper plugs and verify the spark plug wires are good, clean the contacts on the inside of the cap with some fine sand paper. Usually Friday night tune up stuff.
The timing procedure for these cars is complicated and covers 3 whole pages in the manual, starting on p. 24-6. It's worth reading through carefully so you understand what you are doing and what you are looking for.
I replaced the distributor, cap, rotor, plugs, wires and coil along with an oil/filter change. Everything was NGK except the distributor.
I move the distributor, angle the light in every way, rev the engine ect.. and still no mark. I even put a fresh mark on there just to be sure It can be seen.
The tdc mark on the flywheel does not line up with the crank mark. If the dot on the crank is lined up with the half circle on the engine block then the tdc mark is not lined up and vice versa.
I followed the manual to set the timing to a T and still no mark.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img17/9770/z0t6.jpg
here is the two marks you are looking at on your flywheel. This is a picture from below the car.
You are using the small "window" cut out in the bell housing to check? Its below where the distributor is located and is usually covered with rubber plug. These cars dont use any marks on the timing belt to line up the crankshaft.
Yes, that's the mark and the location.
just by your pictures I think you are using the front of the engine to check the crank position is why I posted that.
Don't really have any advice really other than take it to someone that can do it for you.
All right one of the first questions I asked was it original or aftermarket distributor and I never really got an answer back. Now that I see that it's a replacement distributor. I have had no luck with replacement Distributors I always recommend OEM. If you still have your original distributor that works put that back on and try that
In your 1st post you said you reset the timing because they told you it could be a tooth off... did you pull the timing belt off either end?
Sorry I didn't catch that one. I put in a rebuilt OEM. Mine was bad and not rebuildable.
When I Reset the timing the first time I did so by lining up the crank dot with the half circle and moved the cam over one tooth so that the cam marks would then line up with the head. To do that I loosened the belt.
It's very easy for the crank to shift when tightening the tensioner back down, may want to check that it didn't move on ya.
Ignore the crank dot, you set it by the "T" on the flywheel/flexplate for initial install when lining up cam/crank. Cam at "UP" position in line with engine and crank at the "T". Just have to make sure the crank doesn't move when tightening down the tensioner as it does like to do it.
That is where I'm at now. I still cant see the mark on the flywheel and I still have a misfire. Does anyone have any idea what I should do next?
Take off timing belt and reset timing completely using method described above.
Yes I have done that. Today I used a can of sea foam in the intake. Seems to run better but now the idle is staying at 1000 rpms (normal 750-800)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1989_3rdGenAccord
If you have an auto, then you have the 2 marks pictured above. You also have a dot or two. Do NOT use the dots to line up the crank. Use the T or the cross. Don't use the number. Use the T. If you're confused, upload pictures of how you're lining it up and we can advise.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1989_3rdGenAccord
Yes I used the + not the numbers and not the dot and i still cant see the mark when checking the timing. I also still have a tiny bit of rattle every once in a while. There is also the random misfire.
I'd say either the block or deck has been shaved, you have the plug wires out of order or you're looking at the wrong pointer. There isn't much else that can go wrong.
The plug wires are in the correct order
the block, head, and deck? has never been removed
the pointer is the only one there. Should I show pictures ?
I have an 88 accord lxi and want to swap but I don’t want to have to modify just for fit. Can I get a suggestion on what I should get?
I believe any kind of swap there's going to be modification but probably b18. Would probably be the easiestQuote:
Originally Posted by Lamont Seawright
The a20 intake fits the a18 correct?
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Negative
Does anyone have any pictures with the Carb off and any misc pictures of the carb/gaskets/parts/shit? Alot of the threads are too old and the pictures are gone. First time working with a Carb on a 3G.
What are you needing? The carb base gasket o ring I replaced with gasket paper. I did a full vac delete on my carb, its easy for me to get pictures, but I cant tell you what you should replace because I did the bare minimal. O rings on the needle and seat screw, tighten the venturis, just dont touch the accel pump unless its leakingQuote:
Originally Posted by BITESIZE
I'm new to Carbs, so everything pretty much.
Are you doing a vacuum delete or something? I can pull my carb off and take pics, thought I would for the vac delete thread anyway, but Im not sure how I can help. As far as it goes inside of it it just needs cleaned out, pull the top off and thats about all you need to do.
I'd like to do the delete.
Quote:
Originally Posted by InAccordance
In Alabama, there's emissions laws but they're not really enforced. Besides, if they were, anything over 25 years old or older is automatically exempt from Emissions testing anyways. Win Win for ME:flip:
New to this forum, new to carburetors also. I have an 86’ Honda Accord looking to swap to a Weber carb. Anything I should do before swapping??
Quick question! Would 1985 civic corner lights fit a 1985 accord?
Delete all the hoses.
Whats the best spot to place a floor jack under the car to lift the rear and set on jack stands?
On the floor. :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
If you look underneath, there should be a fairly big bump on the underside of the trunk floor. That's your lift point.
I just bought a 86 prelude si, I can't find parts in my area and my cat is pretty bad. Should I just delete my cat or will it run better with one. (No emmisions where I live)
Give a call to a couple exhaust shops around town and see what their prices would be to cut out the cat and weld a universal one in there.
The car doesn't need the cat to run but it is nice to have one because it does clean up the exhaust smell quite a bit. Without a cat your car will smell like a 60's or 70's gas guzzler.
So I punched my cat out, made the car run alot better, I don't notice the gas smell cause all my cars are old 70s gassers. Thank you for the help :).Quote:
Originally Posted by conozo
I did the same thing to my cat didn't feel a difference in anything but the smell of exhaust fumes in the car
Where would I find the ECU on my 2nd gen 86 prelude 2.0l
In the back seat, drivers side, there is an ashtray on the side panel. Remove ashtray, should be under there IIRCQuote:
Originally Posted by Therustywrench
Ok I found it and it's blinks 5 times pauses and blinks 5 times again. Thats the only codes it's throwing. What would that mean? I'm really new to the older computersQuote:
Originally Posted by 86ccord
05 LED FLASH(s) 85-98 * AccordQuote:
Originally Posted by Therustywrench
MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure)
Mechanical Problem / Disconnected Piping
Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
Search trouble codesQuote:
Originally Posted by 89T
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I sold my accord in the for sale section, how do I remove it?
Just update the thread to that effect.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1989_3rdGenAccord
So to start, I own a 87' Accord Hatchback Sport, i'm located in Canada, and theres no accord that has benn produced here with gaz injection.
So, I have a couple of questions!
I've bought an EF9 SIR and changed the bottom end for a B20B with still the head of the SIR, with a RS transmission for the highway.
I have some Integra DA shift rods and 11inch spindles , Innovative eurethane motor mounts for Bseries, a walbro 255lph fuel pump, a p28 ecu with a chip and a front lower torsion bar to fit bseries in a 87' accord hatch.
Presently the motor and trans are in, but the shifter rods are not fitting because the floor is in the way.
So first question:
Is it better to bust the shit outta my floor to be able to fit the shifter rods or modify the shifter rods?
Second question:
I've made a custom cover to fit the 255lph walbro fuel pump and everithing is good on that point. Now to convert it from carbu to injection I have to pss a new gaz line. What are the other things to do except that?
Question three:
I have an OBD1 main harness from a 92/95 civic SI, and the engine harness from a 95 Integra GSR for the P28.
Do you think its a good Idea to take the main harness from the 92/95 civic SI and weld some wires to the main harness of my 87´ accord hatch; (exemple of the wires, check engine,rpm, oil pressure.) and then put the power on both harness.
I have a few questions. I have a 89 accord lxi automatic 260xxx on it and I need to know what years are compatible to interswap parts out of? My driverside lower balljoint is pulling through the steering knuckle housing and I'm looking for new steering knuckle but am having a seriously hard time trying to locate one there are a few on google that look very similar but I have extremely weary of them I just need some solid 100% accurate advice from some people that know there shit about these cars so if anyone can help me that would be really swell and great of you. And one other question will a f20b fit in an 89 accord.lxi
Hey guys, I'm looking at a 88 accord and would like to pick it up but the passenger door does not open. The lock seems to actuate but it's hard to tell. Any ideas on this?
Unless it's been in an accident, it will be a relatively easy fix. I wouldn't let it keep me from buying the car.
Hey I'm back with another question although I am not new I still have trouble navigating the search. I have my manual transmission out with no reverse and whiny 5 looking to rebuild it. Where can I get the best rebuild kit for it?
The fact that you can't engage reverse, which is nothing but a gear, something is clearly wrong with the shifter. Those gears are actuated by the same shaft, nothing else is. Take the black cover off the one side and you can see 5th, stick something in the shifter and turn, it I think clockwise if you were looking at it as if it were in the car, and in and out. I think out should engage 5th, so you will see it and make sure it has a positive connection between the syncro and the gear. If you push the shifter in it should engage reverse. If you can engage it by hand but not in the car your shifter linkages are probably bent in some way. It doesn't sound like you need a rebuild, if you do you might have to take it somewhere that can source parts individually because I know of no way of bringing these trans back from the dead.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1989_3rdGenAccord
Btw if you need the page in the manual its 340
The parts I need are..Quote:
Originally Posted by ShiRen
Main shaft. Tooth count 11th-12th-19th reverse idler 27th. 5th gear 36th. Counter gear25th. kit bearings, syncros, gaskets and seals.
What would you suggest? The car has 100,000 miles on the transmission and I cant find anyone with a transmission that has low miles.
Oh yikes. I did not figure you had it apart already. I would start calling trans shops, if there is any source for parts they would know it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1989_3rdGenAccord
Its a little late now, but you need to shift into one of the other gears without releasing the clutch before shifting into the unsynchronized reverse.
I have been calling but so far no luck since the main parts I need are "hard parts" as they say.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShiRen
I was afraid to hear that. I know 5th commonly dies in these trans, if you can't get those parts anymore then idk what we are going to do. Most cars with a good trans are too nice to pick parts off of, the cars that aren't look like this or are severely out of spec.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1989_3rdGenAccord
I'm so sick about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShiRen
I need help with this, If there is anyone out there who can help me get the parts I need.
Your going to have to spend a good amount of time looking in junk yards and pulling tranny's to find what you need. Ask on the 3geez facebook page, check Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market, search all the local pick a parts you have.
Make sure you replace the seals because 5th year is caused by low fluid leaking out of your seals.
I have been looking im my junkyards and so far the couple I have found are automatic. Yeah I have replaced my axle seals 5 times this year but they keep leaking. I don't have facebook but I asked my brother to look and he said there's nothing there for my car. I will look at carpart.com.Quote:
Originally Posted by conozo
The big leaker you need to look out for is the shift shaft seal
I think that one is ok but I will be replacing all that if I could ever find the parts I need.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShiRen
One of those axle seals is the incorrect one and I dont think the correct one is available might be why it still leaks.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1989_3rdGenAccord
I was able to get the correct driver side seal after about 7 trips to the parts store and I have no idea what the pn was, unless I posted it in my car's thread. I have to replace the passenger side seal now and as far as I can tell the right one is listed for the auto trans... I have it but I have not put it in yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord
Yeah I have not found one yet that doesn't leak.
Quick question; so I’m getting an ’89 LX in a few days and the owner said the car stayed in the family and was maintained fairly. Only issues is the alternator and the ac system. He said the ac is completely shot. How should I go about repairing it? Will I need a whole conversion to r134a or can I keep the r12 system?
I think you are going to have to have the car in your hands before you know anything. It depends on which compressor it has and where it is leaking etc.
There's almost no reason to opt for R12 over R134 anymore. Last I checked an R12 fill cost $300 where a conversion costs maybe $150.
Do you have a reference for a conversion kit? Just went to see the car today. glad to see that everything is exactly how the guy explained it to me (with the surprise no power steering). other than that, mechanically it feels solid! No leaks, and minor squeaks! Definitely needs some TLC on cosmetics (expected) but the engine and tranny are strong and what i hoped for! i have a few pics i took today that ill post in a bit. so glad to have something to put time into, amidst this corona crap hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
There are 2 different compressors, if it is a keihin, the whole system has to be replaced to put r134 in it, do not even try it. You need a denso compressor and none of the keihin lines fit it, so unless you adapt it somehow, you have to source the compatible lines. If your car already has a denso compressor though, its a matter of buying the $4 r134 fittings and filling it up. My money is on you have a keihin and the o rings on the lines to the compressor have perished. I have a keihin filled with es12, its not expensive, but availability is suboptimal.Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingFuqboy
Made a thread in 1geez but running out of time lol. Going to be looking at my first 1980 Accord Hatch 5spd. Single owner car almost 100% original with 119k miles. What should I look for visually and in a test drive? I am coming from a 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 so a lot of this is foreign to me. Anything I should know ahead of time?
I will answer you since you're pressed for time. I have never even seen a 1g in person honestly, and not many people own them anymore. You are going to have to use your own judgement for the most part, you should be able to tell most things that need fixed if you really look around, but parts are going to be hard to come by aside from your normal consumables. If there is something that looks wrong and you are not prepared to diy it or really go on a parts hunt then it may not be the car for you. However, Im sure it will be a fun project. I have a 3g and a Civic Type R, both cars are on total opposite sides of the spectrum and I love it.
I just joined because my accord has been acting funky not spunky like usual, let me give you some background it is a 86 accord LX and I love it with them flip up headlights, I did a Weber conversion but it went south in about 5 minutes with a razor blade. I did a Weber 32/26 swap and I have been struggling with vacuum leaks off and on one minute it's fine the next it wants to die. I removed the vacuum control box so no more AC and cruise control and what not. Plugged everything on the manifold they don't leak and I know the base plate has a small leak but I haven't had any luck with fixing it. For any Weber enthusiasts here my problem is the thing wants to die 99% of the time and it has gotten worse the carburetor is tuned for the motor the A/F ratio is good but it wont idle till it hits a certain point, so is it that from a vacuum leak or a fuel problem that could be causing this? I replaced the fuel filter in the tank already and I've been running non ethanol premium gas in it. Again Weber swapped with no vacuum control box no vacuum system besides the brake booster.
I can tell you for sure a leak on the baseplate is not a "small leak" you also can't tune the a/f with a vacuum leak
Shiren right get the vacuum leak sorted out. Since Im guessing your using an adapter you may have to sandwhich in some fiber gaskets as well to get everything to seal up good and then see what you got.
Or just go ape-shit with the RTV...
It was actually RTV'd like a mofo but it started to leak after like 5 months, I got the vacuum leaks sorted and it's running like a champion I got to smoke another EG6 which is cool however like everyother startup the thing will not idle it's got rev range but it refuses to idle and i'm really confused but it runs good then i turn it off run into the parts store come back out and it wants to die so it seems like a fuel pump in my opinion or just the relay is going on i'm not to terribly sure this thing is a lot more complicated than my datsun. There are no vacuum leaks I sprayed it down with brake clean and it was mint. Just as a side note what should it idle at?
Idle? well in you case anything~ but 700 to 900 RPM would be fine.
