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RTV is not a good gasket for an intake, just saying. Assuming the "EG6" was not a JDM Si-R, yeah its not very hard to whoop on d16 civics, it takes very little to see ~150hp at the wheels with the A20.
I would doubt you have any fueling issues unless you havent changed the fuel filters or you have a jumpy tach.
You can let it idle at whatever you want, probably 700-1000, I find it gets a little annoying at around 1000, but I keep it high enough to turn the AC on
Hi guys! Newbie from the UK here! I have a 93 carburated accord which I want to change from vacuum to mechanical secondaries but couldn't find anything for my later model. I saw the thread on the the third gen but didn't know if it was the same. Was looking to eventually boost my f20a2 engine. Any help would be appreciated. Many thanks, Nick.
Hey everyone. I'm a newbie here. Still trying to figure out how to use the site but here it goes. I have a 1983 honda accord with 1.8 ek1. I'm doing the timing belt on it. Now what I find interesting is that you have to have your bottom cover on to have your crank pulley on. So my question is will i run into any problems when I go to tighten my crank bolt before the belt tensioner has even been adjusted with the belt on? Or should I tighten crank bolt then slip the belt the over cam? Any input would be appreciated. I plan on using 5th gear and someone on the brake to tighten the crank bolt so some movement is likely.
woops
Don't you have to tighten the bolt before you can tension the belt? Turning the crank pulley bolt (and not having it loosen) is part of the tensioning procedure.
dumb question but what should my distributor advance be at, keep in mind that I have no vacuum retard hooked up just advanced because weber, weber 32/36 86 accord LX
Don't do it unless you have a lot of brake clean and time also a flat file.
Advance it till it pings and then back off a notch....since your totally modified it really up to you where you want to run it. All the stock settings go out the window.
I set my static timing to 10-14deg, I haven't heard it ping, but some people have trouble hearing it. You may not rely on the ping unless you have made yourself a det can.
My fans won’t turn on unless my ac is on. Fuses and relay works. I swapped out the sensor on the bottom left of radiator and it still won’t come on. Any help?
Download the shop manual from the link in my signature, then follow the troubleshooting chart on p.23-6. Let us know what you learn.
Hey guys, I messed up and lost that bolt that goes into the fuel filter. It's a thick one with a hole going through it to allow fuel to pass. It's the same as the one in the fuel pump. I was wondering if that's something I could even purchase, if so, what's it called and any leads on where to look?
Banjo bolt....or fuel banjo bolt. There available I cant remember where I got my last one. your supposed to use new crush washers.Quote:
Originally Posted by peakylight
EDIT:
HONDA ACURA BANJO BOLT FUEL PIPE 90020PD6000 OEM 1B308 | eBay
hope you get the idea.
This was a huge help, I ordered one and it's on the way. Thanks so muchQuote:
Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord
There are two banjo bolts and I'm pretty sure they're interchangeable. Which is good because one of the bolts is that abominable flat head, non-hex thing with the integrated check bolt. It's nested way down in the engine compartment and requires a large crescent and the removal of a lot of extra items to get loosened. If you can get that one loose, throw it out and replace it with another hex head. The banjo bolt from a 4g Accord also works.
Got the new banjo bolt and installed it into the fuel pump. Now I’m installing the new fuel filter and have a question. Does a second smaller bolt go into the top of that annoying bolt? It has a clean circle on top which makes me think that one say there.
Yes one is the pressure test port it's plugged when not in use.
I’m not having much luck with the forum search, I have an 84 Accord with a bad manual transmission (chunks missing from the housing bad) and am wondering what the interchange options are. I thought I saw a while back the 86-89 will work, but can’t find it again
Do you know what engine it has?
I’ll have to double check when I get home from work, but I think it’s the ES2
How do we add a line in to stock stereos? There was this thread: 404 Not Found but it is not working.
I have a carbureted 85 accord. Need info on where to purchase bolts for the head. Any info is greatly appreciated.
Part number 90005-PC6-003 you can get them online or from your dealer
Hey so while chasing millions of wiring issues we found a metal box under the drivers seat on my 1987 accord with wires going into it and we are unsure of what it is. Does anyone know what it is and what it does
You are most likely talking about the ECU. It is the brain of the vehicle.
Here is a pinout if needed Attachment 10852
I have a 86 Accord LX. Carbureted. What plugs give reliable and good mileage? Copper or platinum?
TIA
NGK copper... Platium is the biggest waste of money for a spark plug, if you want long life get an iridium
Hello guys, Do I have to order Prelude upper control arm if I put yellowspeed coilovers. Or I'm good with my stock parts with my accord 89'.
If not do you know who sells prelude 2nd Gen upper control arm? Thanks!
No... you don't, unless you wan't fine camber control.
You can occasionally find them on ebay
Trying to figure out the order in which to adjust my valves i saw a video sayin cylinder 1,3,4,2 is this correct?
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthre...AL-(-UPDATED-)
I would follow the book procedure until you understand what your looking at and the function of the cam and rocker arm.
In general you adjust valves with the rocker arms on the base circle of the a cam AKA the loose side.
I have a 1983 accord that keeps going through voltage regulators. Wondering if a later model or any internally regulated alternators would direct fit.
A20A3 is the woodruff key for the crank pulley and the timing belt gear one piece, or are there two keys, one for each?
1989 Accord Lxi Coupe KA MT5
Pretty sure there is just 1
Thanks. I just got the key from Honda. By the size of it there must be two. The pulley bolt came loose, and it fell off! Engine still runs fine, so must be another one for the timing belt sproket.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShiRen
Thing is super small, and could never reach both A20A3 Lxi
Are you sure you didn't get the one for the cam?
Make sure you put that bolt back on with loctite or all the ugga duggas your impact can handle
anything at all on how to replace the clutch cable on a 87 honda accord lxi pgmfi ? Access under the dash looks impossible. No videos on any car with a clutch cable. I already have the parts. No threads I could find here about it. Nothing in my manuals showing me the procedure. No searching results in the forums here for clutch cable or cable show anything , not that im about to cycle through 480 pages of threads.
Pretty sure its just hooked over the end. Its tight, yeah, but you should just barely be able to see it.
I found a video of a guy showing a pedal assembly outside the car and he showed me how to hook it. I managed to replace my clutch cable in about an hour. Fully adjusted. Thanks for the reply! I used a piece of guide wire to thread through the hole in the pedal assembly and firewall to help guide the new cable hook through and then it was a huge pain, but I got the hook over the top of the highest point on the clutch pedal. It was overall easier than I thought. I was afraid I needed more access under the dash to get to the top of the clutch pedal. Luckily, my hands are as small as the Japanese.
Its not a fun job, it is surprisingly cramped behind the dash. Leave that to all 3 pedals being strangely overcomplicated
Download the shop manual in my signature. It will help explain those things you can't see so you won't have to rely on YT.
The timing sprocket on the crank has a key cast as part of the sprocket.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacques
The key you got from Honda is, as you said, for the crank pulley only.
Thanks. I fixed it. I can't believe it came loose! Should have left hand thread so when one uses for valve adj. it could not come loose!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamnar_V
Where can I find a replacement or upgrade exhaust for my 89 Honda Accord LX
Buy a muffler and weld it on
Rockauto.com has stock replacement options but if you want anything more you are own your own for custom work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasiy17
Hey there, I'm back again with another question. I did a vacuum smoke test and looks like I have a leak coming from the ?"by-pass body assembly"? Here is a picture, it's not leaking from the gaskets it's at the spring. My question is where can I get another one? or can I somehow repair it?
Attachment 11034
Attachment 11035
Where was it leaking from? You probably just need to replace the gaskets
I did a vacuum smoke test and looks like I have a leak coming from the "by-pass body assembly"? Here is a picture, it's NOT leaking from the gaskets, it's leaking at the spring where the shaft goes through..
Cant see the picture yet (sometimes its delayed in showing after the post) but i would assume you can take it apart, the spring off and most likely find an o-ring in there you could replace. I dont know if its an oring but i would assume it is. By the way not all orings are equal, you want one made from the material that can withstand oil and gas. I forgot what kind that is, automotive grade at the hardware store.
Hows that for a generic answer.
In the miata world it is common to remove the flaps and fill the holes with jb weld. In this case it will reduce power in the low end, but it should work if you absolutely cant get it to seal. I would be looking for a replacement manifold, stock or b16, if you go that direction.
Okay so I was able to take it apart and found what once was an Oring so after chipping that out I cleaned it up and replaced it with an ac (green) oring, it was the only one I could find that fit the best. I put it all back together and it still leaks there. I might have to get a thicker Oring and try that. It does seem like its leaking less though. Maybe it will seal better when its warmed up.
you can find the right size on mcmaster carr
Well my goal was to pass smog so I put it all back together, replaced a few sensors, reset the timing back to where it was, changed the oil w/filter and air filter and it passed. The idle is still high and it will pulse half way through warmup but I just turned the wheel all the way to one side and that allowed the idle test to be under 1000 rpm and it passed quick. I still am trying to figure out the high idle and the pulsing but otherwise it runs great :)
Doing the ball joints any tips for doing them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRWtVZRwa8YQuote:
Originally Posted by HubertTheHonda
Rears pretty easy to do.
The front lowers probably need a press.
Heres a link to the how too https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthre...ower-Balljoint
I think Dr. Snooz does a how to on the fronts if you search him out.
Haven’t been on in awhile. New issue arose with the Prelude. Car dies while driving down the road randomly.
I haven’t replaced the fuel filter yet, did it last year in the summer as well as new injectors, distributor cap and rotor, wires, plugs.
To start, I did the fuel pump. Still dies.
I got another filter but haven’t put it on yet. Gas cap is fine and is holding suction while the pump is running.
With that all being said, the only thing it could be is the filter and or the EGR Valve, right?
I’m gonna replace the filter tomorrow as well as take the EGR Valve off and clean it. Hopefully that should fix the problem, no?
Thanks for reading and I’d love any suggestions or answers anyone could give.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Idk if this is a dumb/newbie question but I've tried Googleing and maybe I'm searching the wrong keywords but what model of transmission Is in an 87 accord
auto or manual?Quote:
Originally Posted by ArrZeroZero
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthre...des-and-ratiosQuote:
Originally Posted by ArrZeroZero
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthre...nd-Paint-codes
New to the forum, but original owner of 1986 Prelude SI - bought first year out of college. Finally getting it back on road.
Had someone put in new plugs, wires, timing belt, injector o-rings, alternator - got it running good about 89% of time - but would sometimes lack power until high revs - then jump into full power.
Next morning it is dead, turns over but no spark.
I pull distributor cap and get this. Metallic shavings and what appears to be a piece of a retaining ring or similar with a tab - see lower right of pic - this was in distributor cap.
Clean out distributor and install new cap/rotor, as expected no go, but worth a shot for the $.
Anyone recognize this piece? Guessing distributor bearing is shot, but shaft really didn't have much play.
Any other ideas?
Thanks
Attachment 11096
Doesn't look familiar... whats the other side of the dizzy look like?
It had debris that I cleaned out with air. Sprocket looking thing( forgot name) would turn slighlty until it hit a stop in both directions, don't even remeber if I tried to turn the shaft - but it is connected to cam/motor right? I shouldn't be able to turn that by hand correct?
Almost looks like water got in your distributor and rusted it out from the inside out.
It would be helpful to take the dizzy off... but yeah there definitely shouldnt have been rust flakes in there
Hi. I have a question about my radiator/cooling system (forgive me for any misuse of terminology…this is my first car in over a decade and I’m trying to fix things myself)…
So, last week I was on my way to work when white smoke/steam came billowing out from my hood. I pulled over, waited a while, and opened my hood and everything was soaking wet. Got the car to work and eventually found a tear in a hose.
I wasn’t able to remove the hose (one of the hose clamps was rusted and i haven’t been able to get a tool on it), so I cut the hose, added an L-shaped hose fitting, attached a short piece of hose, everything is hose clamped and there is no more leak…from that area. HOWEVER,
I drove the car and after about 3 miles the engine started over heating and when I pulled over, waited, and checked under the hood coolant was basically spitting out from the radiator cap. I am unable to find a compatible radiator cap to replace this original-the rubber stopper is larger on this original than any replacements I can get at o’reilly’s or autozone. Regardless I bought a radiator cap that has a release lever on it and so far that has been working well. HOWEVER,
I can hear coolant spitting out from the radiator cap once I’ve stopped driving (only driving a few miles)…
I had come across information about this coolant leak repair called “k-seal”…has anyone used this with success? Or will this just destroy my car?
I do have a replacement radiator that I’ve been meaning to install. Should I just install that?
Apologies that this is a lot of information.
There also appears to be a leak coming from the passenger side of the car directly next to the tire. Would that leak be releasing pressure from the radiator? Is the L-shaped hose fitting too drastic of an angle and it’s preventing coolant from moving properly?
There is alot going on with this car that I’m trying to slowly fix when I have the time and money…
Any information would be helpful. Thank you.
Did you properly bleed the coolant system after you replaced the hose and added coolant. If you didnt you would still have air in the system and it can overheat causing your issues.
Download the shop manual from this site or from Snoozes signature and look at the "bleeding the coolant procedure".
Bleed the coolant, find and fix the other leaks, heat the engine without the radiator cap and watch for bubbles in the radiator, if it bubbles you have a blown head gasket.
Hey guys really dumb question I know but I'm still learning and trying so hard to get my 87 accord back up and running. Would the 2.0l block from a second gen lude be a usable replacement to a stock block? I shot a rod through my block at 3000rmp after a mechanic said it was fine to drive and now I can't find a usable block/engine.
An a20a3 block from a 2nd generation prelude Si should work
A motorad T13 should be the correct replacement cap. If it keeps puking coolant under high speed load the thermostat is stuck closed or the combustion gasses are getting into the cooling system (head gasket, cracked head, cracked block)
What does the rest of the distributor look like? There isn't enough material in the cap to explain that amount of debris. Clean it out and test.
Get a new cap and rotor for tec (not hitachi) and try again. I am baffled how all that shit ended up in your cap
Does anyone know the exact differences between an A20A1 carbed block and an A20A3 efi block? I know the heads are the same
Actually the blocks are the same it's the heads that are different.
Carb head has two bolt holes for the distributor and efi has three. I think there is a slight difference in the camshaft.
Cams are negligible at least. Probably the only showstopper is the dizzy mount if you have an efi car
Hello all! I have a 1989 Accord LX-i Sedan that currently has no power steering because when I bought the car it had no bolt or adjuster bolt to connect the pump to the bracket. Looking online of course, all parts are discontinued as I assumed. Any suggestions? Or any info on bolts that could potentially work as opposed to OEM spec bolts?
Yeah, you're going to have to experiment. Either pull the bolts off one laid up in a yard or fabricate/Macgyver something up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jsparkman
(Why does the forum randomly log me out when the page is reloaded?)
I thought about running wires from the batt , straight to the fuel pump to bypass everything. Then this ECT sensor issue , I thought about running its wires from the sensor straight to the ECU, then I started thinking more and more about just everyway to bypass every system that keeps us from starting our cars or our cars running right because of a relay, or some other overcomplicated circuit full of lockout switches and crap wiring material. Is this a good idea? Lets say we do toggle switches for ignition, fuel and toggle the starter. Like a race car. Good idea?
As far as the fuel pump relay its there for safety in a car accident, so unless just for testing, NEVER just bypass it.Quote:
Originally Posted by fortekosakku
If the fuel pump is the only one you see being a problem then what about a 12v lead, spliced into the 12v that the switch normally feeds the pump and so i can just force 12v to it in short bursts or short length durations. I get some fuel cut at higher RPMS even though everything is new on the car , I was hearing about more crap getting in the way of the fuel pump signal so , the only thing im not sure about is the fuel pressure regulator is old and its vacuum operated I believe. Forcing 12v to the pump is the same as forcing full PSI on the system right? Is that ever really bad on anything? Im not above only using it to guarantee fuel pump power during starting but if it fixes high rpm fuel cut too, or I notice a power increase , would it hurt the system to have it fully primed on its full psi? And forget about the safety aspect. If I wanted a car for safety , id have bought a volvo. If I get an any accident at all, its probably an instant death, so who cares. Free cremation. Will it hurt the car?
Voltage at the ignition switch was 12v when the key is on. While cranking though it drops below 10. Hovers between 9.8 and 10.2 while cranking. Even seems to drop the longer it cranks off the battery. Testing the voltage at the fuse when I got the car to run on a cold start, after cleaning my ignition switch contacts(even though its not even 2 yr old), was 11.7 at the 40amp coil fuse while running. That same voltage while cranking hot across the fuse is in millivolts. The voltage at the switch while cranking is below 10. My optima battery is about 4 years old. On their website it says it should last about 4 at most under the texas heat. It still cranks really strong though and never has given me issues.
I think you seriously mistake what "lock outs" these cars have. If anything at all turns off an output such as ignition or fuel, it's because an input is out of range, the input being what it uses to map it's fuel output.
Just picked a new exhaust system for my 86 Accord LX big ol fart can unfortunately but I need to do it, my muffler fell off classic the thing rotted out. I got this off a buddy who had a 3rd gen accord which was unfortunately totaled a year ago (moment of silence) however im having a hard time figuring out of this thing is going to fit or not.Attachment 11192
Just wondering if anyone has done something similar to this thing, its about 124" inches from the tip to the flange which i think should fit given the overall length is 179" on the 4 door model
PS, I think I uploaded the picture properly
Don't mind the rc cars on the floor and the mess everywhere I own a datsun its that things fault
Where can I get the brake light housing for an 88 accord DX coupe
The 3rd brake light or a taillight?
It looks like it has an extra 45 degree bend toward the front half that doesnt need to be there. I would drive the car up on some blocks or two wheels up on a curb and lay it under the car to see if its close.Quote:
Originally Posted by HubertTheHonda
I would assume some modification would be necessary especially on the down pipe.
hey all.. Just a quick question. my DX has a similar (same?) engine bay fuse box as an LXI. Would i be able to add power mirrors if i have the switch and both motorized mirrors? are the connectors there? as well as power windows & auto locks connecter... (i know i'll need latch and motor). Just curious if all the harness connectors are on there or if it's a different harness. thanks! also what is the best battery for this guy
One more thing... Do sedan (4door) foldable seats fit in my (2 door) hatch?
The wiring harness is different. You would have to find a LX wiring harness and replace both the front and rear wiring harness. It includes most of the the engine bay wiring harness and the rear one to the tail lights. All your interior would need to be removed. Switch out the fuse box. It would be a ton of work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandopatt
I am 90% sure they are interchangeable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandopatt
thank you :)
Hey ya'll ive only been recently trying to find another accord since my last one sadly is no longer running and it wont be again, but i've been wanting to try and find and 86-89 accord doesnt matter if its hatchback or sedan I'm just really into the car itself, but i cant seem to find any form of finding them near me, i live down in Miami Florida and for the most part i can only find them 9 hours+ away from me, do you guys have any tips that i could use, maybe some websites that'll do me good in finding one at least half that drive away? thanks
Any of you fellas have OEM part numbers for high/low tone horns/speedo cable? Horn I bought off RA is a generic one that doesn't plug & play - you're supposed to rewire & jerryrig it in. Speedo cable doesn't fit either on an 86 DX sedan with a H4F4 auto trans - part in question is a PIONEER CA3070.
I put Hellas on mine and iirc they were plug and play. Are the stock ones not spade connectors?
Which side does not fit for the speedo cable, make sure you don't have the clip on it when you put it in and make sure it goes into it's slot when you stick it in the trans. Idk how it could be wrong, I don't know of any other style speedo cable
I bought an FIAMM kit for the horns, speedo cable might be defective. I'll have to check today or tmw.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShiRen
Can someone recommend me a horn kit and also a radiator (orig one is on the way out) that fits an 86 DX with an auto trans off Rockauto? One has LXI only, one has MT only, what is the most expensive/best quality one that fits an 86 DX AT? Best guess so far is the AGILITY 8010928.
Alright, I think I got everything sorted. Sorry for the newb questions.
Trying to replace my radiator but I can't seem to disconnect the fans how do I do that
It's bolted on... See these pics
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/resour...351ae49d21.png
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/resour...491c12dc5c.png
will an automatic console switch directly to a manual, referring to the hole size for shifter primarily. thanks
also. does one need to remove rear quarter panels to pull out rear seat. I see the rods it pivots on put looks like more work than I anticipated. 1989 acord lxi coupe
Will 185-65-15 fit stock 1989 accord?
Pretty tall. I havent seen anyone run that size tire.
