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I thought years ago they stopped making tokico blue shocks for our cars. I see them available for our cars, they look a little different than the original models with those being baby blue and these are navy blue in color. Am i making stuff up that i thought they discontinued these and they are back now.
I think i blew my rears, one was leaking the other day and now going over bumpy roads the rear end skips all over the place. Got 13 years / 50k miles from them.
Buy them and let us know how they work!
I'm considering getting some ksports coilovers then selling my used H&R springs, Front Tokico Blues, and Bilstein Rears since i wouldnt need them anymore.
I really need those rear control arm bushings to come in, need to replace my tires but want to do that after I replace all the original bushings so the tires wear even. Will be getting these tires Continental ExtremeContact DWS 06 Ultra High Performance All Season
I got those tires on my Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT. Im on the second set. There pretty good tires esp in the rain but I wouldnt brag to much on there over all performance handling. They do also quickly flat spot sitting for some reason which I find very odd in the year 2020. I think the treadware is 560?
The Continental Sportcontact 6 that came on my Type R were awful. Not bad in grip or anything, but Continentals tire compounds are a bit questionable. 240 rated tires only lasted 11k miles and were extremely dry rotted after being a year and a half old. It doesn't surprise me at all that they flatspot on you.
I put some Hankook Ventus V12 evo2 and they have been able to keep most of the horsies down, even in the rain. For just under $100 I would probably be willing to try some 205/55r16s on the accord... thats really tall though.
0 for 2 today. I tried to order the tokico blues that I found online and they didn't have them anymore. The other item was the rear trailing arm bushing. I guess ksports are in my future and poly custom bushings.
Parked the car for the week her to get a few things sorted out, still getting blowby on cyl 2 so I'm soaking it in seafoam. Then I'll be replacing all the bushings front and rear and also replacing my dash while getting the heat working.
Ive had really good luck with marvel mystery oil unsticking rings
Didn't get as much time as i wanted to work on the car during thanksgiving weekend but did manage to soak cyl #2 in seafoam for 5 days then marvel mystery oil for 2 days. Also took out the old dash and put in the new dash, connected the heater controls all up but still no blower fan.
Need some help with this blower fan.
I've been looking at the manual and tested the ignition switch continuity and it is working. The radio does turn on, the heater controls are light up and i can hear the vents move when switching modes. When i measure the voltage from the connector straight at the blower motor i get 8.2volts on high but it does not spin. I assume it should be 12v and i assume that if its only 8.2v this is probably a ground issue but i cannot figure out where it grounds to.
Also my dome light and chime sound when you leave the lights on are not working. I dont think those are related or connected to that circuit in any way although.
You're getting power at the blower, but not enough. Trace back in the circuit until you find 12V and whatever component comes next is your problem. It could be nothing more than a corroded connector.
Bet the blower connector is burnt toasty. Old motor pulls alotta amps and its fused for 70A,EDIT 40A. I put a 15A inline on mine and had to goto a 20A. At full fan speed I think it by passes the resistors s should be full voltage.
Chimes the box under the radio mount plug it back in.
Also got this mysterious connector under the dash, between the fuse box and steering column, its just hanging out there. Blue/White wire and a black wire, so something is not grounded, pretty thin wire, doesn't power much.
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No clue on that one. Lost connectors I was always taught to pull it and do a 360 see what its reaches.
I'm pretty sure that is the plug to the headlight chime on the panel below the steering column lol. Its been a while since I looked, but I swear its a 2 wire like that... and it would explain some things. Not so sure about the dome light.
There should be 12v to the blower on high, but it should get the motor to run. Anyway, you'd have to do the troubleshooting steps on 22-10 and 22-11 if you haven't already
The connector pictured above is for some interior lighting because its the same color wiring and connector as other interior lights. I think there must be some driver side foot well lighting on the LXI that i dont have on my DX dash.
I did fix the blower, ill post pics in a bit but it turned out to be a bad ground. There are couple of wire block connectors just behind the side vent controls under the dash for the dash wiring, one is a blue 4 pin and all grounds. one of the grounds was completely burned up. So i had to splice the wire and run a separate ground wire to a bolt near the steering column and now i have a blower fan and door chime.
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This connector is all grounds and its for the dash wiring, its directly behind the levers that open and close the side vents. I bet this happens more often than people realize with how many post i found with sporadic blower fan issues on here.
I have one cabin tech improvement i would like to take a crack at sometime. A crude version of climate control. It is a modern feature in newer cars that is actually useful but also not a feature that takes your control away. I was thinking i could use my A/C button (since i dont have ac) to turn on the "climate control" which would really only adjust the fan speed automatically by waiting for the heater core temp to be higher than ambient temperature then it would turn the fan on high at first. As the cabin temperature improves it would lower the fan speed down to low.
This week in quarantine I am replacing all the suspension bushings. They are all original, Ball joints are good, they have been replaced recently along with a few other times throughout history. They are all completely shot, some barely existed, surprised it still handled well and was quiet.
The front inner lower bushing was a major problem, the inner sleeve was loose and not attached to the rubber part of the bushing and was really rusted to the bolt, when i unbolted it, it pulled the bushing along with it. I had to use my angle grinder and completely cut through the sleeve and bolt in the very tight spot between the control arm and subframe bracket. I got it out eventually, will need to buy a new bolt.
Now i got another one in the rear. This is the offset bolt that you can adjust toe with, the nut came off easily but the bushing sleeve is rusted to the bolt, i can't even just hammer the bolt out. This one has access to both ends of the bolt unlike the front. Not sure how to get this one out, i would try heat but its right next to all the fuel filler lines for the gas tank, maybe a hammer chisel?
No way in hell those cam bolts are coming out. You will have to get new ones from Honda, which are plated better thankfully, but the shank is a slightly different size, you will need to put a washer with an ID larger than the cam shank on it to actually tighten it in the subframe... That was a really stupid problem to have
Which bolts are you referring to (which year honda and model) I cannot find OEM or aftermarket bolts for the car. Rock auto said they had one but it is out of stock, no autoparts stores have them, etc. Its the last part i need to get the car back together.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShiRen
I had been good about taking pictures of all my oem part numbers, but I did not for these. I would love to double check, but I believe it is 52387-SE0-023. I wonder if you got the cam washer (52388-SE0-030) as well if it would not bottom out. I swear the shank had to be a good 1/16" longer though, thatd make for a thick washer. Also don't be a dummy like me and find out you lost your old nuts and don't have a suitable replacement. They need to be a very high strength stover lock nut, ideally at least, I am using 2 10.9 regular flange nuts and using one as a jam nut. Here is that part number 90216-SE0-010 EDIT: these actually might be a nylock... I don't remember removing a nylock and using one sounds a little dumb
I found someone selling a used toe bolt kit one on ebay and went ahead and purchased it since I know its the correct size. Also had to purchase a genuine honda control arm bolt from a 03-07 accord to replace the front lower inner control arm bolt. Ours measures 12x80 and this one was 12x84, should be fine with the extra 4mm in length. I could not find that bolt anywhere at fastener stores, apparently 80mm is pretty long. Spent about $180 on those two bolts and 4 of the tiny control arm bushings in the rear. Way to much for what i got but i am glad to get it ordered.
Really? I ordered 2 cam bolts and 2 of the regular bolts for the other 2 lcas, that was $50 at the dealer, and I may have bought out all the $5 bushings, got 5 beck-arnley bushings from rockauto, 1 from amazon, and a 2 pack of moog bushings also from amazon. I was really worried there is little to no stock left. I maybe paid $100 total.
I hope that toe bolt kit is right... make sure you can't move the arm front to back once its together, before you bolt it to the trailing arm. I specifically opted for oem rather than the one on Rockauto that may or may not exist, so itd be right, we don't get that luxury though.
Got a bunch of posting to do, will add pictures later but for this year 2021 the car was down for about a month while I was sourcing suspension bolts and extra bushings since i didn't order enough for the rear. I was able to get it all replaced with new bushings and was able to find bolts that work. The front inner lower control arm bolt is a similar sized bolt that actually for a rear acura suspension. Pics of part to come for reference. My window weld large rear trailing arm bushing fill is working great. Car is much less clunky going over bumps, handling hasn't improved much as it was already pretty good. Replaced my blown rear Tokico blues with KYB shocks and I can't tell the difference. I'm using H&R springs.
Then it started to snow big time, did order some new tires from costco. Special order as they werent on their website, they gave me a little fit about my car being too rusty to lift, but i insisted it will work just fine as i knew it would. Rocker panels underneath are pretty much gone because previous shops just lifted the car wherever instead of the pinchweld lift points.
Its been a hard winter on the old honda but its still trucking along. Lots of things on the to do list for it, still super fun to drive.
I've made a decision to do an OBD1 upgrade on the car. I've been researching parts and how to's and will start sourcing everything I need. I am going to do it right and get all the tuning parts and software too so i can learn tuning which is something i have wanted to learn anyways. Part of the upgrade i will also but a B series intake manifold on there to get rid of all the unnecessary parts and ports that are on the A20 head. I will not be doing coil on plug.
Right now the car runs pretty well warmed up but there are a few things leading me this direction. I think the A20 is a great engine but the fuel and ignition system could definitely be modernized and simplified. All the mechanical ignition parts of my system are tired and quite frankly i don't want to try and fix them with other tired parts. My car runs well when warmed up when its warm outside but when its cold or doing a cold start it runs pretty bad, fluctuating idle, really notchy throttle, and the fumes that come out of the tail pipe are bad, it also runs rich a lot of the time.
Id start off with a wideband guage even before you do any modifications.
It will give you a good idea what the engine is doing in all conditions. I ran mine for more than a year before I did anything to it. its kinda like watching your oil pressure gauge you get pretty good at predicting what and where fuel ratio is going to be. I logged mine a little but alot less than I thought I would.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajcm21n1lAE&t=1745sQuote:
Originally Posted by conozo
Thanks, this is a good idea.
I recently just purchased coolant/battery and oil pressure/temp gauges, already had the innovative afr gauge. Data logging with those extra inputs in a daisy chain will really help. Might be more than you want to get into, but if you want more inputs but not the gauges they make the SSI-4 box that allows you to add in several extra inputs... might do one later for rpm myself, depends on how well megajolt and innovative logs overlay.
Also, I can't wait to replace the stock coolant temp sensor with a k type thermocouple... that thing is crap!
Purchased the AutoMeter 2-1/16" WIDEBAND AIR/FUEL RATIO, ANALOG, 8:1-18:1 AFR, GS Sku 3870
Its their GS series gauges, they are black with white letters that light up green when lit. Same as the dash, it also matches my oil pressure gauge from the same series.
2-1/16" WIDEBAND AIR/FUEL RATIO, ANALOG, 8:1-18:1 AFR, GS
https://www.autometer.com/pub/media/.../8/3870_39.jpg
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Realized today that sometime this month in 2001 my dad gave me this car to drive. Hard to believe that i have had this car for 20 years or that I am old enough to drive a car for 20 years. (I am 37, i know not that old but in terms of a cars lifespan its old)
Its been a while but I'm still kicking and the car is doing the same. Summer has been busy with camping, going to the lake, kids activities. I drive the kids to taekwondo every weekday, they love riding it it just as much as I do. I haven't really done anything to the car as for repairs other than taking a few parts off and cleaning them. Whats new is that during a 5 hour road trip to an roller coaster and water park i hit the best i have ever done with 260 miles on a half tank of gas. 34.6MPG on the entire tank.
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Also I have decided not to reinstall the radio. I have been driving without a radio for over 2 years and honestly I like it. Cruising in the summer with the windows down or even in the winter you get time to think about things. So for the sake of going light weight (another goal) I 3D printed rear speaker covers to replace the metal ones, plus the metal ones have no way of staying there without being on a mounted speaker. Its a louvered design if the pictures don't do it justice. Where the radio goes, i am going to put my extra gauges, oil pressure, wideband O2 sensor, and i have room for one more but don't know what that is yet.
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I bough this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LDM7N6 I can't live without my radio, already have a stripped miata and it leaves a lot to be disired, but I will definitely be getting rid of the head unit because aftermarket ones always look like shit. I don't know why they all still have to look like they're straight out of 2001. Sony, Pioneer, and the lot should take a page out of Blaupunkt's book and look at the SQR 46 DAB, except for that insane price tag.
I agree about aftermarket radios look odd in any car. I have the original radio i was going to put in to be authentic but honestly its just an am/fm radio so pretty useless. But that bluetooth/amp looks pretty nice. Small package and no other user interface to put somewhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShiRen
I put one of those media player ones in mine. They're shorter than a CD or tape deck. I do want an old school tape deck though for the look eventually but that's later down the road when the major stuff is taken care of (probably never lol)
Only have 3 speakers though, rear right isn't working and I did put all new speakers all around and even swapped the left and right rears just to be sure. It's in the wiring somewhere.
My engine sort of went kaput. But as usual i think the solution will be to take it apart, clean it up and put it back together.
Friday i was driving around town and parked at a clients parking lot for about an hour, when i came out there were two big oil leak spots from me. One the size of a big dinner plate and another the size of a medium plate. On the way back home i was stuck in stop and go traffic and the engine started smoking like crazy. The oil was leaking on the exhaust header from the valve cover gasket. I'm sure people though i blew up my engine. I know what the problem is, when the car sat for years while i was doing the carb to fi conversion, cylinder #2 piston rings became stuck, its causing excessive blow by so oil leaks out of every gasket. Its been this way for 30,000 miles and i knew the day would come where i was forced to fix it. So I have it in the garage and this week i am tearing the engine down to fix that piston ring. As far as i know its not cracked and there are no scratches on the cylinder walls from when i looked at it a while ago with a boroscope. This week is the best week for me to do a project like this being that its thanksgiving week. Pics to come.
Looking forward to improved performance and probably a smoother running engine when all 4 cylinders will have the same compression after this. Although it has run and performed just fine even with this cylinder #2 problem. Typical Honda (works even though its broken)
Good luck with it!
I found marvel mystery oil to be fantastic at unsticking rings... but Im not sure I would believe it would have stayed stuck for 30k mi, at least not without taking out the bore with it
ok, well i got the piston out and the ring is not stuck. So now i really dont know what the issue is. I have excessive blowby where it even causes the dipstick to pop out every drive thus causing all my oil leaks. Cylinder #2 measured about 20 psi lower compression compared to the other pistons. Also a leakdown test showed %25 percent leak compared to the other cylinders which had no leak. That cylinder has lots of oil in it, you can tell by the pictures and by the spark plug. I'll spend more time looking at tomorrow.
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Yes i was wearing underwear ......... yes i was using my sons old underwear as oil rags.
Now i see the #2 exhaust valve looks funny, i will look at it more. But could a bad valve cause excessive blowby?
in pic 17 is that a crack in the exhaust valve? That would cause the loss of compression. Valve stem seals would put oil in the cylinder, maybe. What led you to believe #2 had stuck rings? Really trying to think what would cause the blow by unless it simply needs rings because the bores look pretty good. I am assuming your pcv system was near stock.
If that valve is broke I've got an extra head that I only needed for the exhaust valve springs, so there is probably a decent valve in my collection Id be willing to send you
I assumed it was my rings because when i did the leakdown test i listened to where the air was going and it was leaking into the crankcase only on that #2 cylinder. It was not leaking into the intake or exhaust manifolds.
From the pictures that #2 exhaust looks sketchy. So i will need to replace it, it looks like its crumbling apart. The valve stem seals are new as of 30k miles ago but i guess thats the most probably blow by cause if the rings are fine. I am going to look closer at the rings and make some measurements.
I see this motor has been apart, at least for a head gasket, but was it ball honed as well? Is that correct? If its already been ringed and honed it might be time to go .040" over (or b20 pistons hehe).
I wasn't saying the valve seal would cause blow by, not even sure if that is really possible, I think it would rather go out the rest of the exhaust. If the compression was escaping out a bad valve then its going to be hard to tell if the rings were bad. And I assume the cause of death of the valve would be a burnt valve... so make sure you check that fuel injector too!
Let me know if you need a valve... I thought they were out of stock, but there seem to be a few new now.
Update: I have it all back together and have been driving it the past couple days.
I replaced all the valves with new ones and lapped them all. Replaced every gasket and seal i could. Cleaned everything I took off as best as i could with a rag, engine degreaser, carb cleaner, and compressed air. Adjusted the valves and timing. I think the timing belt is off one tooth because its supposed to be timed at 4 degrees but i could only turn the distributor to 3 degrees. I would assume i would have more room to wiggle it. As i was aligning it up it always seemed to be on the half tooth mark. That will be an easy fix, probably take about a half hour now.
Only two problems i ran into were just waiting for parts. I'd work on the engine for an evening then order a part and wait a week, work on it for another evening or day and wait another week for another part. So all in all it took about a month to complete with about 4 whole days of work with most of that time being cleaning parts. I did not take the engine block out to do this rebuild/refresh.
My diagnostics is that all three valves on cylinder 2 were not sealing well at all causing the combustion to go back up the intake and up through the intake valve guides past the valve stem seals. There was a lot of carbon in that area and also the valves were very crusty and pitted. Cylinder one had the same carbon on the intake valve stem seals. This make me replace all 12 valves. All the valve seats were pitted. I installed the valves, filled up the chamber with water and blew compressed air from the exhaust and intake runners onto the back of the valve to see if i got any bubbles. Pretty much all had leaks and especially cylinder 2. I took the valves off and lapped them, repeating the test till they sealed perfectly.
The car does seem to run smoother. It still has a loopy idle on cold starts, but thats not an engine problem its a vacuum leak, distributor, coolant sensor, or multiple things, i havent figured it out yet.
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Pretty sure mine is an interference engine now. Didnt measure it but any carbon build up would be game over if the belt broke.
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New Valves and cleaned carbon
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some pistons cleaned super easy and some were very difficult to clean
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Utterly amazed here. This is the original factory catalytic converter. Still good after all these years, light shines right through it. Bolts still good too, zipped right off with impact.
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I desperately need a new downpipe exhaust gasket for my pacesetter header. Havent called pacesetter yet to see if they have one but couldn't find anything online.
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Links if the pictures dont work above.
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I am assuming you go the head resurfaced? You probably don't have the timing out, thats just the best its going to get. Just make sure your cam is advanced (lobes moved counter clockwise from stock, if it leaves you with sufficient valve clearance) rather than retarded and set the ignition timing between 6-10*BTDC. It will help if you can find actual TDC instead of going off the markings on the crank, but its hard to do with the spark plugs at an angle. Engine should run pretty good if you can manage that.
Day 2-3 now. Engine is running very good. Transmission is not. Slipping out of 1st and 5th. Before anyone says my transmission or syncros are bad i know they are not. I had zero issues with it before. I can say this with confidence because when i put everything back the clutch cable seemed odd, it just doesnt come straight off the transmission and lay across the engine bay the same way it did before. I cannot figure out how exactly it was. Pictures online seem to have it lay across the distributor, mine has never been there for sure. The big radiator hoses seem to be in the way. If i move the clutch cable to a different location, the clutch pedal feels completely different and it works for 5 miles until the cable moves in the engine bay then the gears keep popping out. Also the cable does seem to be binding at times, there were a few times when i started out in first it felt like i was dropping the clutch even though my foot was off the pedal at that point.
Its almost like its been wrong its entire life and it needs to stay that way. looking at old pictures now....
Good news is i might be on to something as to why our 5th gears go out all the time. Clutch or clutch cable issues... (5th gear doesnt necessarily pop out completely, sort of half pops out and you can hear the teeth not engaging completely as you get a whine sound especially when you let go of the gas)
There is a lot of padding behind the clutch pedal you might try to remove and see if it fixes the issue. I'll admit to not routing it where the cable normally goes (because its ugly as sin) but I had to get every bit of travel out of my clutch pedal as I could though. Never had issues with it binding or anything like that though. My gears don't pop out, but 5th grinds. I should probably look at the cable again, maybe you're onto something. 5th is the last to get any oil, so its basically doomed if the clutch and oil are an issue, very few of these trans are going to see their 40th birthday. The clutch pedal needs a higher pedal ratio imo, it would solve all the troubles if it was allowed ample travel to begin with, and our clutches are light as a feather.
Quote:
Originally Posted by conozo
Classic ole time valve job does it again! Glad its running good!
The cable uses one of the valve cover hold down bolts and a U clip to keep it from moving around. If you forget that it wont move good.
All your pictures are post now which I think before they were not.
That car got a lot of love. Do you think the carbon caused the poor seal, or the poor seal caused the carbon?Quote:
Originally Posted by conozo
I think when I had the head refreshed locally during my carb to fi conversion they did not get the 3 angle valve grind at the correct angle. They were all off evenly but cylinder #2 was the worst with the carbon build up in that cylinder. One problem caused another causing the original problem to get worse.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
I dont know why my pictures dont show up right away. They are directly linked to my server as i have always done and there is no restriction to having it this way.Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord
I'm still having shifting issues with it popping out of 1st and 5th. So far i have adjusted the clutch cable and can confirm it is working as it should. I loosened the motor mounts and re tightened them to let the engine settle as it was before because i though maybe the engine was tilted to much causing a weird angle on the shift rod and therefore i couldn't shift into gear all the way. I changed the tranny oil with new Penzoil Synchromech which is what i was using before. I had a though that maybe coolant had leaked down into it through the speedo sensor which is why i changed the oil but it looked just fine with no sparkles or anything.
I dont know what else to check. Possibly my exhaust pipe is hitting the shift rod, ill take a look. It feels like it shifts into every gear just fine.
I say best bet is pop the 5th gear cover off and see what the wear looks like, I need to do it myself. If its the shifter then I am pretty sure you would have problems in 1, 3, 5 or 1, 2, 5, R. If it is hard going into gear with the trans stationary, you need to put it into a forward gear and go back to neutral without letting off the clutch to stop everything, then something might be binding up.
I may be jumping the gun but it keeps getting better every mile i drive after the fluid change. Maybe i did have coolant in there causing fluid contamination. Been driving around half of yesterday and today using all the gears and it hasn't slipped once. Out of fear i am driving super easy on it. Wish me luck.
I swear if I change my oil and my trans goes back to being happy I don't know what I will think. I have dumped gallons of water through the engine since I did the clutch. I mean I blew up 2 radiators in that time :dunno:
Another angle on it is/are your shifter bushing and shift rod bushing in good shape?Quote:
Originally Posted by conozo
The shifter bushing I run is solid nylon and the shift rod I run the polyurethane one. These are pretty much "goto" mods in my book. I did it so long ago I forget to add this. I kinda forget how the stock set up shifts but it was never my favorite until I did these too mods.
Does 1st and 5th pop out as your driving along or pop out right after you release the clutch on a shift. Ones syncros and one is not.
The shifter bushings were replaced a couple years ago. I will take another look at them, i also wanted to take a look under the shifter boot to make sure everything is good there where the shifter rod attaches to toward the rear of the car. It does all feels like it did before the engine work. I will say there has always been a little slop from what i believe is the bird cage bushing but i am not 100 positive on that.
So about 20% of the time when i shift it into first, as soon as the clutch starts grabbing i will see the shifter move back and when it does that i know its not in the gear fully. If it stays put then i know i am good to use 1st. If it does pop out its instant the first move the car makes, never while i am up to speed.
For 5th, its not so obvious. I have to go by sound to tell if its not in gear, i can hear a whine and the shift knob does not move even if its actually in gear or not.
Again, i had zero issues before the engine rebuild. I never had a miss shift or anything like that ever.
Did you bend the shift rod when you pulled the engine? I know it sounds silly, but I did it when I pulled mine, dont remember how I managed it though. I think I bent the stationary rod.
I thought that too dropping the trans it can happen, that thing is all balanced weird.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShiRen
What do you say oldblueaccord which behavior is syncro and which is not?
ShiRen - I did not pull the engine, i left it in the engine bay. Only transmission items i touched was removing the clutch cable and took the speedo sensor out of the hole and put a rag there.
I try something different every day but the last two days of quite a bit of city driving 1-4 worked every time. (I did not attempt 5th) Didn't check the bushings yet because its been brutally cold here recently. Typically its mid 30s during the day but its been between 10 to 15 degrees and windy.
Pops out when you first shift its syncros. Pops out as your driving under load is some shaft flex in the trans misaligned shafts.Quote:
Originally Posted by conozo
Some of the older designed trans the shift rails run under a plate outside the trans and the flex makes them pop when you have a high torque modern motor. I dont really think Honda's are designed this way.
Just to give you a lol my 2018 Camaro trans t-6060 pops outta 1st once in a great while just like my dads 1969 Chevelle wagon did. They all got there quirks.
Maybe new oil fixed it.
Torque can definitely pull a honda out of gear... Ive done it on the drag strip in a hastily built turbo crx. Its not a normal failure mode, but it has everything to do with the bushing that sits right behind the shifter. Its supposed to allow some fore/aft movement, but not wiggle when you move the shifter, if something is wrong with the stationary rod or the bushing then the torque can pull the car out of gear or the shifter out of the bushing. Thats not what is happening here obviously.
Ive never had an old honda pop out of gear while cruising, but I have had a k series trans pop out of gear when I got it back from a mechanic with barely any oil in it. I wonder what would happen if extra oil was added.
New theory here. Sorry i'm all over the place but in my experience problems on a 34 year old car are never common and sometimes includes parts that never typically fail.
In the last week for several days in a row i have only been driving in 1-4 and those gears have worked every time. I tried 5th a few times and after i did 1st did not work every time. Also if i park on hill and the transmission is holding the car in place, 1st does not work that first couple shifts afterwards. My new theory is that the fluid change did nothing, i am wondering if when that clutch cable slipped the day after my rebuild it loosened the nut on the end of the tranny shaft therefore causing the gears to be loose and moving around a bit. I will pop the cover off the tranny and take a look to see if that nut has moved and see if i can tell of the gears are sloppy.
All of your theories are valid, there is a lot that can go wrong in a 30 year old gearbox, and probably a lot that is wrong. Definitely could be something like mainshaft slop.
Does your gearbox whine at all? That would be a good indication of slop in some direction.
5th gear does wine sometimes. I believe when its wines it pops out of 5th gear, when it doesn't wine 1st gear pops out.
I am very afraid to open the 5th gear cover especially with the intention of looking for something wrong. I have no way of just getting those parts and i have been looking for an entire spare tranny to have just incase for years. I have an automatic junkyard search that will notify me of any accords in a couple hour drive around me. I've never seen a manual transmission pop up.
This is why I am very fixated on using b series trans.
Honestly Im afraid of opening the over on mine too lol. Part of that fear is not finding anything wrong in what I know is a ticking time bomb.
Still driving with the tranny the same and still looking for one in case i need it when i take it apart.
Last night i replaced the IACV with a new unit from a 90-95 Civic. It was posted here a few months ago as an option, it does fit but you need replace the coolant hoses with longer ones, just 3 feet of generic 5/16th will be plenty for the project. Also one of the bolts needs shortened or washers stacked. I think i need to bleed the coolant more because during warm up for a minute or less, the idle is high and fluctuating. 2k to 3k in a very consistent loopy pattern. Its very interesting to drive like that. I'll figure it out but its almost comical on how high it is. Tomorrow ill take a video and post it. I didnt know we had anything on our engines that could make the idle fluctuate that much. Definitely no low idle or stalling issues right now.
Here is a video of it, the revs above 3k are me trying to stop it.
https://youtu.be/C93GloaZfUM
I'll go out tonight and take another look, i did bleed the system good this morning but i do have and had a very small coolant leak which i wonder if its introducing air into the system as it sits and cools down. I did put UV die in the coolant so i can see but i think one of the temperature sensors on the thermostat housing is leaking internally through the plug.
In the picture of the inside of the throttle body. There are two air holes for idle control. Which one is which idle control? I will say during idle and when its surging the covering the top port basically does nothing. Covering the bottom completely will make the engine stall and the bottom one is connected to the surging idle. We have the IACV on the middle front of the intake that i replaced, then there is the IAC? on the rear of the intake between the throttle body and the firewall. I am wondering if when i replaced a bad part with a good part, all the other bad parts (the IAC?) are rearing their ugly heads.
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/2...rottleBody.jpg
Also on the IAC? on the rear of the intake, i took the top cover off with the two phillips screws and inside it is screwed down all the way but if i push the plunger down all the way i get the same high surging idle. I'm not sure if its supposed to do that or not.
It is my understanding that both are for idle control. One is for when the engine is warm and the other is for when the engine is warming up.
well the IAC your calling on the backside of the throttle body is the fast idle valve. its comes into play when the engines cold. Screwing the plunger down just lowers the fast idle speed. Once the car is warmed up it shouldn't effect anything unless it has a vacuum leak I would guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by conozo
The EACV? on the front of the intake manifold Im not sure where the ports are in the intake I never have taken all this apart.
Not my best answer.
EDIT: adding in make sure you have fluid flow to the FIV and EACV. I know some of my small hoses were so bad I was not really getting coolant flow. Also I loosen the hose going out the EACV and bleed air from there too you will hear air escape when you pull on the hoses.
Yes you are correct, i didnt have the shop manual with me when i posted. Below is from the shop manual.
The FIV Fast Idle Valve is the thing on the back by the throttle body. Sometimes called the FITV or Fast Idle ThermoValve
-(From the manual)Prevents erratic running when the engine is warming up. Cold coolant contracts the thermowax valve allowing additional air to be bypassed into the intake manifold so the engine idles faster. When the engine reaches the operating temperature, the valve closes, reducing the ammount of air bypassing into the manifold.
The EACV is on the front of the intake manifold. It appears that only the 88-89 models have this. Also to make it more confusing its called the IACV on later model Hondas
-(From the Manual)The idle speed of the engine is controlled by the EACV and FIV. When the EACV is activated, the valve opens to maintain the proper idle speed. After engine start the ammount of air is increased to raise the idle speed about 150-250pms. When the coolant temperature is low, the EACV is opened to obtain the proper fast idle speed. The ammount of bypassed air is controlled by the coolant temperature. When below 122 degrees F the FIV opens
When looking at the diagram of this EACV, i dont know why there is coolant running through it at all. There are two wires. One is a ground and the other goes to the ECU to activate the coil/plunger.
The FIV on the other hand is purely mechanical. I've questioned if mine has been working correctly for years. What are the chances that that wax valve is still there after all these years and overheating in the past. The shop manual test procedure for it doesn't make sense to me. Put your finger on it and make sure there is air flow. Well.. air flow where, around my finger? In the throttle body port? Its so noisy in the engine bay i cant really tell whats going on.
One more thing i just read. In the shop manual for adjusting the idle speed it says to disconnect the electrical connector on the EACV while the engine is running before adjusting the idle. I can tell you that if i unplug that with the engine running it immediately stalls.
Can anyone find that thread from a half a year ago or so that presented this idea of replacing the EACV with a newer civic model. I can never find a thread again once i see it.
A vacuum leak will also cause the infamous bouncing idle, though it seems unlikely in your case.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthre...ock-off-plate)
I think this was the only thread on it...I can find anything else either.
Does Pacesetter Exhaust company exist anymore. I was going to call them to get a gasket that goes between the header and down pipe and i cant find them on the internet. I did take it to the store one time to try and match one but didn't have any luck.
Try this: https://www.carid.com/pacesetter/exhaust-systems/
Although I don't see Honda listed it seems Pacesetter is still in business. Also saw Jegs and Summit sell Pacesetter but again, no Honda. :sad2:
What kind of gasket? Its unlikely that they used anything non standard
Its this one...well.. whats left of it.
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/2...ssembly(8).jpg
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/2...ssembly(9).jpg
Ah yes, the blank one? lol
Worked on the car a bit today. Some good, some bad, some weird.
Oil change. After my rebuild where i was fixing my oil leaks and valves i decided to go with only synthetic oil and change it every 5,000 miles. The oil has improved over the years and im not running out of oil, but the best part was that the oil still looked clean when i drained it. Thats never happened before, its usually black as can be even at 3000 miles and synthetic.
Weird next. I noticed all over the outside of my car the other day lots of red/brown dirt all over the car and in every crevise. I figured it was clay dirt from driving by a construction site where they track mud on the main road or something like that. But futher inspection its all rusted metal flakes and it is everywhere. Everywhere in the engine bay, wiper cowel, door jams, under the car, stuck to my wheels, in the back bumper, there are even shards stuck in my front bumper. I have no idea where it came from but i would guess some other car or truck was just shredding metal material (bearing, brakes, etc) on the road and during a rain it was washed onto/into my car.
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/2...lFlakes(1).jpg
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/2...lFlakes(3).jpg
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/2...lFlakes(6).jpg
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/2...Flakes(11).jpg
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/2...Flakes(12).jpg
Next I've had this rattle in the back when going over a bumpy road such as my stone driveway for a while. I honestly thought it was the door or the gas tank ratteling but i jacked up all 4 tires and starting checking everything. I noticed that the rear driver side tire was moving forward and backwards a little and discovered that the bushing bolt for the front of the trailing arm was completely loosened and the only thing holding that control arm on was the fact that the bolt couldn't back out completely since it hit the body first. Obviously fixed that and put some thread locker on it.
When I jacked up the car and lowered it on the jack stands I heard a crunching sound, one of the rear jack points was giving away due to rust. This made me sad, I know i need to fix the rust and i will but it is such a big job. My rockers are pretty much gone all because shops over the years just kicked the lifts under the rockers and lifted it without making sure it was on the lift points so they are all bent and rust started to form years ago.
continued...
Then i took my exhaust off. When i did the engine rebuild i shined a light through my catalytic converter and thought it was good because i could see the light but it was actually clogged and my flex pipe was rusted/broken so it has been very loud and really too loud. I confirmed it was clogged by looking at the exhaust with a thermal camera and you could see all the heat before the catalytic converter. I sprayed it out with carb cleaner and it make a big improvement, right now its soaking over night in water and Dawn dish soap as some people said that worked for them. Got a new flex pipe and found a gasket for the pacesetter downpipe. Its a Felpro 95088 from a 1991 Subaru Legacy Turbo. A ton of Subarus use this same gasket kit for 15 years or so. I think the subaru one actually matches the ports better than the original pacesetter one.
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/2...lFlakes(2).jpg
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/2...lFlakes(4).jpg
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/2...lFlakes(5).jpg
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/2...lFlakes(7).jpg
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/2...lFlakes(1).jpg
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/2...lFlakes(9).jpg
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/2...Flakes(10).jpg
Lastly the transmission is dripping a little oil here and there now. Looks like its coming from the 5th gear cover. It really wants me to take that 5th gear cover off which i am still afraid to do so.
I'm going on vacation soon and my thought is to take the 5th gear cover off before hand so that i can look at it and have time to order parts or think about what to do during vacation.
I'm loving the much quieter car. Its not even completely quiet because there is still a hole in the muffler but it was so loud before it was vibrating the car and it feels so much smoother driving down the road now. At some point I will replace the muffler and originally i was going to get a Maglaflow that had some noise but now I'm thinking stock quiet. The A20 will make enough noise without help from the exhaust if I really want to hear it.
Next on the list is to get the rear toe sorted out. After i replaced all the bushings i could not adjust the toe anywhere near where it should be. Its pointing in quite a bit. The lower control arm toe adjuster is turned to the max and i still need quite a bit more. I was wondering if i got the trailing arms or other parts mixed up left to right but I'm not sure that is possible. The toe was perfect before hand.
Thats odd the toe is so bad off after all that. Ill dwell on it a little we can get you some measurements are length if you need it.
I am having a similar issue with my front toe and camber. Youd think that I could get more than .8 deg front camber with prelude arms... lol think again
Really might have to get creative on where you squeeze your toe out of or its cheddas lcas for you. Knuckle to trailing arm mounts maybe?
i get very close to -2 degrees camber just with the TRW camber mounts.
Trying to get maximum MPGs out of this tank and the next tank.
After i recently unclogged my catalytic converter with brake clean and soaking it in Dawn dish soap overnight my mileage went from 25-26 to 31 normal driving. So i though lets try for 37 MPG on this tank. I didn't start this tank till i was 1/4 the way down so we will see. My best mileage ever was 34.7MPG on two tanks in a row, it was %100 highway driving and i did have 5th gear. This time i am doing a mix of city and highway with no 5th gear.
I used to have a 2000 Honda Insight, for 5 years or so I got a lot of practice with increasing MPG, best I did in that car was 90MPG
The key is to get up to speed fairly quickly then hold that gas pedal steady. You'll loose some speed going up any hill and you'll gain it going down. Stay at the speed limit or 5 over. Coast as much as you can before stops. You do not want to accelerate slowly, you want to minimize your time accelerating. Find that sweet spot where you find the engines maximum torque for accelerating and it will feel peppy without stomping on the gas pedal.
This all can be done without being the annoying super slow driver.
If i reach 37MPG i will try for 40MPG
Slowing down is always good for a boost here. I gained more than 1 MPG (~10% improvement) on my truck by dropping from 70-75 down to 64. Fifty-five is great, but exasperating.
Ninety MPG???? Wow.
I got 34 MPG on that last tank. It was about 80% city so I'll do better this next tank because I wont be starting a 1/4 way in like last time. Not sure if i can get to 40MPG without that 5th gear.
That 2000 Honda Insight is the MPG king, no car gets the mileage that car does even to this day. Its thanks to its lean burn, all aluminum body weighing in at 1800 and the super low rolling resistance tires. It was a hybrid but the gas engine ran all the time and did not help with MPG, it only helped it accelerate a little faster since it was a 3 cylinder 58 HP engine. I ended up getting rid of it mostly because its only a 2 seater and i need to carry around more than one kid but Honda really sacrificed everything to improve its mileage so the ride quality was not very good. It was super reliable and I'm still glad i got to experience that car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by conozo
Thats pretty good considering Im getting 14 mpg in my Jeep with 93 octane. :bowrofl:
Jesus, how are you driving that thing in these times. Id be inclined to push it. Glad the most I ever paid for gas when I had a truck that got 17mpg was $3.Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord
The air works! MAX AC!Quote:
Originally Posted by ShiRen
I didnt really buy it for gas mileage...91$ to fill it last night. Im going to convert it to flex fuel some day probably be better sooner or later. I been mixing 3 gallons of E85 with 7 gallons 87 for a while and thats been working very well...hint there some videos on my channel.
You can get good AC out of about any car :rofl: meanwhile Im taking my klr everywhere, it was 98F yesterday with Missouri humidity
Got 34mpg again. Not bad but I'll need some improvements to get higher. 5th gear and wheels that point straight.
I mentioned before that my rear tires toe was all messed up. After I replaced all the bushings I did a string alignment and I could not adjust the toe enough to be anywhere near close. It was so far off that if I went over a series of bumps or even drove over a painted line on the road the back end would scoot sideways because one tire would lose traction. Tonight I decided I wouldn't take a look at it again and I think the bushings have settled because I was able to adjust it a little better. I just used the tape measure method and didn't get out of the string but when I took it for a test drive it was much better but not completely gone. This weekend I'll do the string method and hopefully get rid of it completely because it's really annoying.
I also was checking out a noise I was hearing in the rear driver side when I took right turns. I ended up that two lug nuts were loose. I haven't taken the tires off in a very long time so I'm not exactly sure why it would just suddenly loosen now other than I replaced those lug nuts about a year ago and there are definitely cheap because they're already rusty
Hey, fellow 3Gee daily-ers! I bought my 89 LX recently to daily drive, and have been slowly cleaning it up as I go. Bad gas milage and fuel smell at idle makes me think AFR is off, but I haven't seen the suggestion of cleaning out the cat before to improve milage. Only got 100k so probably not necessary but I can't imagine it'll hurt to do.
Before you go cleaning it you need to check if its clogged first. The temperature should be much hotter after the cat than before it. I got the cheap harbor freight thermal camera but you can also get one of those even cheaper infrared thermometers for $20 to check. Check it right after you have driven it for at least 15 minutes to give it a good read.Quote:
Originally Posted by tristanpark
On the rear alignment note i think i figured it out. The side that is messed up is the side the toe adjuster bolt was rusted in place when i redid all the bushing on the suspension. I remember i had to wack it pretty hard and put a lot of effort in getting it out so i bet i bent the "subframe" 1-2mm toward the middle of the car throwing the whole alignment off. Next week i should have time to give it a couple of good wacks to push it back where its supposed to be.
Ah the fine art of alignment tuning with whacks. ROFL
Got under the car while my wife was rowing through the gears and the bird cage was so sloppy i went ahead and ordered the kit from cheddas.
Also was inspecting the ball joints on the suspension and found that the front upper control arms are toast. The rubber seal was actually fine but when i lifted it up it was all rusty underneath. The metal clip on the bottom of the seal is missing on both sides and allowed water in. I'm glad i caught it now but i think its been like that for a while because they look fine from a distance. Had to order Delphi brand, we'll see how long they last.. was willing to buy OEM honda ball joints but they don't exist.
That bird cage will take a lot of massaging to get together, had to take a lot of material off mine
You mean a Cheddar part...hack to fit.
I had delrin and a lathe the the time I put in mine, they would have been easy to make myself. Good solution though.
I got the Cheddas shifter bushings installed, haven't even test drove it yet but they are definitely firm and a few of the original ones were definitely shot.
I also had purchased Prelude upper front ball joints since the ones on there that were only a few years old were shot. I purchased Delphi brand since i had Moog on there and they were junk and the boots looked the best in the pictures as far as i could tell. When i went to put on one, one of the studs stripped out of the ball joint while simply threading the bolt on. I hadn't even gotten to tightening it down. Complete junk, so i put the old one back on for now.
What brand do i buy?
Moog (didnt last very long)
Delphi (what i just tried, the cotter pin was as skinny as a paperclip too)
Ultra-Power
MAS
Quick Steer
Local auto store brand - Autozone, Advanced, o'Riley
I was watching the South Main Auto Channel and he recommended a made in Japan brand called (Three Five) 555. It seems to be a manufacturer of some Moog parts. I also saw a post that said Moog ball joints that have silver backing are the value line and Moog ball joints that have a "gold" backing are the premium parts, dont know if that true. Ideally i would love to run all oem ball joints or find a ball joint and press it in but im not sure how you would press these upper ball joints in since they don't use a snap ring.
I purchased a 555 set on ebay. They dont sell them on rock auto.
Had a little fun with a break down yesterday. I went to pull out of parking lot and the shifter linkage just fell off, i could hear it hitting the exhaust shield under the car. I was able to get the car sort of in first and pulled to the side of the drive to the lot. Had my wife pick me up and drop me off with tools. The bolt that connect the shift lever in the car to the rod to the transmission fell off. When i was putting it on the new bushings were slightly bigger so i couldnt tighten that bolt all the way as it made the shifting too stiff, so i intentionally left it a little loose thinking ill probably have to come back to it at some point but not necessarily three days later. While in the parking lot i could not jack up the car high enough to really get to it so i restored to a zip tie and i could only get one in there. It did work and i was able to drive it home to get it properly fixed with new bolts and locking nuts. I also swapped rubber extension mount Part Pic #22 back to what it was before, the cheddas delrin transferred too much vibration to the car.
I didn't have any missed 1st gear shifts but it still didn't seem 100%, so i looked at the mounts. they all looked ok visually but when i was rocking the car back and forth, it was lifting and twisting. Most of the slop being in the dog bone. I took the rubber bushings out which were never in there tight even when they were new and filled it up with the automotive window weld, let it dry and pressed them back in there. Basically making a solid mount, so far it feels so much better and the engine doesn't twist or lift when i was rocking the car afterwards. This was the only mount i took off during the engine rebuild so it could have very well been this mount making 1st and 5th pop out. They were worn more on one side probably allowing it to move in a new direction when i reassembled it. The engine vibration is just about the same as before.
Update on my theory. I have some evidence that bad engine mounts destroy 5th gears. Since i filled in my dog bone mount with window weld the shifting in 1-4 has been working 100%. 5th Gear still doesnt work but i think the synchro was fried from not engaging all the way because it wines now. I think what happens is that the engine twists/rocks that when you shift into 5th gear it doesnt engage all the way. Causing the synchro to be the engagement and therefore causing overheating. From my research online bad engine mounts can cause shifting and popping out of gear issues with shift rod shifters like what we have. Cable or hydraulic shifters dont have this issue.
Another new unrelated problem I'm having is that the coolant gauge drops or stutters when i go above 4k RPM. Car did not overheat but i assumed i had air in the system. I did find that the thermostat housing was leaking a little, so i got a new gasket and really cleaned the mating surfaces while also adding a little RTV since there was pitting in the housing. It still does it so i assume i have a pinhole leak in the intake coolant pipe under the intake manifold causing air to get sucked into the system. I did rent one of those radiator pressure testers from the auto store but none of the adapters fit on the radiator so i couldn't use it. Next I'm going to take off a small coolant line somewhere and pressurize that to 10psi using my air compressor.
My coolant gauge did that to it was just green with corrosion at the connector. I cleaned it up and it stays solid now.Quote:
Originally Posted by conozo
You are certainly on something about the 5th gear. mounts can do that.
Glad you are still zinging along I am very close to my 340k mark maybe this week.
Jordan. Can you make your own new post about your car and issues. We'll respond there.
Today is the Accord adoption day or whatever you want to call it. My dad purchased it on this day in 1988, 34 years ago. I asked him if he expected this car to still be around and driven daily and his response was, "definitely not!"
