From what I've read, A/C is kinda hard to install with the big black box behind the dash - I think.
As for the power steering: all models have it. Check your belt. If it's bad, replace it. If it's good, spray it with Belt-Ease.
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From what I've read, A/C is kinda hard to install with the big black box behind the dash - I think.
As for the power steering: all models have it. Check your belt. If it's bad, replace it. If it's good, spray it with Belt-Ease.
AC will be a lot of work to install. Most people think it's a box that you screw into the dash. It's more like 200 different parts that get installed all over the car. Then another 200 parts get modified to adjust idle to compensate for compressor load, or turn on the cooling fan when the compressor turns on, etc.
And, welcome to the board!
when you can take pictures take a pictures or many pictures of the duct that connects the blower on the far right side of the car,to the heater core in the middle of the dash, almost no one here has factory AC delete, and wants to see what the duct looks like, since it won't have an evaporator boxQuote:
Originally Posted by jknox8
Thank you all, yes I will get pics hopefully tonight for everyone! No problems. Now I am certain its either a bad/loose power steering belt, difficult to turn sometimes and the screaching it all adds up! :) Thank you everyone for the input and quick responses...look forward to talking with you all in the future.
I figured as much for the a/c was hoping it might have just been a bolt on slightly modified under 400 bucks issue but sounds like mass work and $$$ so nm. Just sweat I guess! lol
While you're working on the PS, change the oil in the system.
never done that before, pretty self explanatory? how difficult on a 1-10 scale? changed oil, done brakes, tune-ups, alternator replacement, stuff like that. Is it pretty easy to get to, etc.
Pretty easy. The manual describes how to do it on p. 18-9. The hardest part is figuring out a way of keeping the old fluid from shooting across the street when you start the car.
Question here, whenever I have the radio on, along with the front and rear defroster, headlights, my revs go down.
How many amps does the stock one have?
Will 135 amps suffice?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-89...#ht_1064wt_941
Is it time for a new alternator?
If so, is the installation simple?
Thanks
double post
When I use anything in my car the idle goes down. Even when I steer and brake. All of my Accords did that...
That's a damn good price for a high output alternator. Last time I tried to get one new, it was over $200-300. It would be much more straightforward than converting to the Legend alternator.
Honestly though, your stock alternator is more than capable of running everything in your car as it is (assuming you don't have some mega-stereo). You might go through all the grounds and battery cables and clean them up, maybe replace some cables. That makes a HUGE difference, and is cheap. But yeah, you will always get a slight drop from the extra load on the alternator.
Yeah, me too, whenever I'm at a red light and I press the brake pedal, my revs go down and the car starts to vibrate a little, it gets annoying...Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
I have the stock radio with stock speakers, so yeah.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy
So if I make sure all my cables are ok and if I replace some, my revs should stay constant no matter what I do, correct?
that doesn't sound like an electrical issue, it sounds like your brake booster or it's check valve has a problem, the brake lights don't draw so much current that they would load the alternator, stepping on the brake causes a large change in engine vacuum, if the check valve is ok, there is enough vacuum stored in the booster to not have much effect, but if it's not it would suddenly show the engine a large vacuum dropQuote:
Originally Posted by HON-DUH
Same with all of mine. I've gotten used to it. My battery and alternator are about six months old.Quote:
Originally Posted by HON-DUH
Well this is my first car and i want to lower it, i know im going to need coilovers( not going with lowering springs) and shocks and camber kits (to get negative camber) thats all i really need right? Just the main to lower the whole car is coilovers and shocks right?
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=89Quote:
Originally Posted by Salo_89_Accord
Can't believe i didn't see thatQuote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
Thanks!
What type of gauge pillar pod "fits" for my accord..
I want the battery/oil and maybe one more gauge, I need a gauge pod pillar thing.
Okay, at this point I'm seriously asking for someone to hold my hand and walk me through this:
How do you take off the rear bumper? (coupe)
I've read the how-to thread, but it wasn't specific enough and there weren't pictures.
I know about the four screws near the tires, and that once the four 12mm bolts are off the bumper slides back, but I can't find the bolts!
the ones that hold on the tow hooks, and i think one more on the sedan, they will all be inline with each other, the pieces that hold on the bumper slide into the frame railsQuote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
This one works great.Quote:
Originally Posted by CzEcHy
http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/q...z/DSCN2233.jpg
i saw camber kits on ebay that claim they will fit an 88 accord and they are $20 or some thing is it true they will work i want to slam and camber wheels like this /\ but i dont know the first thing about camber or how to go about doing this. any help would be verry appreciated i only want the rear cambered.
why would you want your tires cambered like that? do you own a tire store?Quote:
Originally Posted by resendez
Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
stance.
http://www.tsg.cc/user/tuned/civic-e...ic_ed3_017.jpg
ooooooooooooooooooo, the "my control arms are broke" look, I want one of those cool exhausts like that now!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by cubert
no i dont own a tire store but the stance is sexy
you'll need one, you will just destroy your tires. plus the car won't handle worth anything at allQuote:
Originally Posted by resendez
car is pretty clean not my style but still clean
if u have a camber kit cant u adjust it and make them flat again how hard is it to do that?
you can't just adjust it, you get an alignment to make sure the camber is right in the first place, you would have to bring in the car every time to have it adjustedQuote:
Originally Posted by resendez
we have a full shop with an alignment rack and my teacher is cool so that wouldnt be a problem just to like go to the meets every other weekend or the big ones once a month then align it back to normal
but why? it looked retarded, it's rice, rice doesn't go over well here, it looks like your suspension is broke, and that "clean" car that was posted was posted in sarcasmQuote:
Originally Posted by resendez
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...w=1366&bih=646
click that hopefuly it worked
Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
Please dont assume things.
That Civic was not posted in sarcasm, I actually do like the stance look and posted an example of it.
Just because you dont like it doesnt mean its rice.
I dunno man. Its all the rage right now, and i can't figure out why. Makes your car handle poorly, makes it look silly (in my opinion) and destroys your tires. I cant imagine it being good for your suspension components either.
Like i said, its in style so i do understand, just understand the problems with it before you get into it.
http://carporn.co.uk/http://carporn....onda-wagon.jpg
sorry i dont know how to put pics so heres a link i think thats too sexy
that civic was more of a "jdm" type look more than any thing not so much ricer in my opinion but i cant stand roof racks or the "rusted hood look" just not me and the long pipes going to ur trunk is a drifter thing
http://carporn.co.uk/http://carporn....onda-wagon.jpg
This car looks awesome, still hate the stance though.
i love the stance i love the camber look i seen some that line up so nice its ridiculous they look so clean tucked
What isn't a question is that it has to be done right. You can have overly-cambered wheels and not have the proper stance:
http://blankmediagroup.com/Pictures/...12_02_1627.jpg
...ending up looking
Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
that still looks pretty nice
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
I have to use that space! lol
Anything for the door pillar drivers side?
you can get a universal one and a heat gun and shape and trim it to fit the pillarQuote:
Originally Posted by CzEcHy
I used a dual pod and cut it down to one, the one for volts I made with PVC piping
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...p/100_0664.jpg
Sounds good, as soon as I find a heat gun lol..
Just wanted some oil pressure/battery voltage, and leave a spot incase I need anything else the car didn't come with on the stock gauge.
How do you remove the rear door handles from a sedan?
If you're supposed to get 2.25inch piping for exhaust, is it from the cat back or manifold back? <.<
And would the manifold make any decreases in power cause the bigger piping? Or is the manifold opening bigger than the piping already?
I ask cause I need a new manifold so I figured grabbing an LX-i 89' manifold, and getting bigger piping since my piping is a bit "old", would be a cheap yet big increase in terms of making SOME sort of power.
What are the most common Engine/Body electrical problems for a 3gee?
What are the most common mechanical problems for a 3gee?
Electrical: main relay going out from extreme temperatures, and the antenna motor.
Why don't we have any Japanese members?
they dont speak english? :dunno:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
Because they're on freegeez.comQuote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
we did have a couple, but I don't know where they wentQuote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
I don't know why 2.5 instead of 2 thats plenty big, the outlet on the header is even 2Quote:
Originally Posted by CzEcHy
Stock manifold is 2 inch? So 2.25 will be perfect for stock manifold? Sounds good enough for me.
Unless you are going to mod the car heavely all you will need is 2 with min mods 2.25 with all out mods.
you loose back preasure as you increase pipe diameter. There is a such thing as going too big.
I figured 2.25 was "enough" unless heavily modified, guess 2 will work since all I have is a Weber 38 and an CAI.. Thanks for clearing that up!Quote:
Originally Posted by 89T
Why does the "New Posts" link routinely drop threads I've started?
Because you've already read them.
You always have a smart answer don't you? Why doesn't it retrieve them when people have posted to them.
I always have the obvious answer everyone seems to ignore or not bother to post.
Do you read them when you're not logged on? That could affect something. Or maybe if you use subscriptions - I don't, so I don't know if they could also do something.
Im new to this forum, and i was wondering if its ok to advertise on behalf of Bisimoto Engineering? and may answer questions about products and past experiences.
we have someone from there on here, but I don't see why not, you carry our valve springs now, plus the last time I called I was also told they had a cam regrind available, so far everyone has had great luck with the products. Finding real performace products for this engine is like finding the holy grail, One thing I woould like to see is a direct bolt up manifold for a single or dual webbers, thats a popular carb conversion for the A20, and a tuned proper manifold designed for the webber would probably be a hit, for us and the prelude guysQuote:
Originally Posted by BisimotoAlvin
Unfortunately, that falls beyond the scope our company. But my best advise would be is to visit a reputiable fabricator. At the moment we don't manufacture intake manifolds.
LOL :bowrofl:you must be new, i make my own, it was a suggestion for something to make for othersQuote:
Originally Posted by BisimotoAlvin
Can you make a header for the A20? if so then you'll have alot of responses and maybe a group buy would come along the way? just an idea for you guys if your making new parts for these cars and would be great if we had more support for the cars :DQuote:
Originally Posted by BisimotoAlvin
Lost i think it would be impossible to make Car/Plane Parts for your Car :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
not everyone has access to a machine shop...Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
A few random questions:
1) Can I purchase a windshield without the tint at the top? It seems like every car out there has it, but one of the hatches at the big Seattle meet didn't, and the tint really bugs me.
2) Did 1988-1989 DX's have black trim instead of chrome on the grill on the hood? I found one like that at the junkyard and I like the black a lot better.
3) Since all models were wired for everything, were coupes and hatches wired for power locks like sedans? Or did that get left out? I'm guessing not since they don't have the place to put the power lock thing. Although, I don't think coupes and hatches had OEM sunroofs in North America, but they're still wired for them.
4) Did all DX coupes have black trunk liners/material?
5) Did all DX coupes, hatches and sedans not have rear speakers?
6) Did LX's have different factory radios than LX-i's?
7) Did 1988 LX-i's have different factory radios than 1989 LX-i's?
:wave:
Can someone direct me to the Rims thread. The thread where people posted up pics of rims they had.
Thanks
http://toronto.en.craigslist.ca/tor/pts/2240384336.html
are these worth for $175?
I DONT KNO IF THERE IS A THREAD OF WHERE people post their rimsQuote:
Originally Posted by visal911
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48188
dont get them...that is alot of money with that you can get some nice 15 inch rims with tiresQuote:
Originally Posted by visal911
They were not wired for power locks. The doors required some additional buttressing for crash-proofing and it took up the space for power locks. You can't even grab some actuators from a sedan and put them on. There isn't room. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
That is so lame!
yeah i had to get aftermarket ones installed when i did my alarm
1) How hard is it to replace the doors on the 89 Se-i coupe?
2) Why did the gas in my gas tank have a green tint to it?
3) How hard is it to replace the Starter, and where is it located?
4) Where can I get replacement hoses for all the ones in the engine bay?
You just have to have something or someone hold it up while you unbolt it. Not sure about the wiring, but I think it unplugs somewhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nio
Mold? hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by Nio
It's so easy that I can do it! You have to find a green canister looking thing on the passenger side of the engine block. I think there were two foot-long bolts that had to come out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nio
Honda dealer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nio
Alright sounds easy enough, I wouldn't have to worry about wiring would I? since I'm replacing them with manual windows ones from the hatchy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
Good thing I plan on replacing the tank and fuel pump. XDQuote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
Cool, thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
That is a surprise. expensive?Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
that last one you could get them at autozone. i never had a problem with the hoses there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shyboy88Lx-i
Ahhh yes good old autozone.
How much would it be for maybe all the hoses?
You have to worry about getting the wiring out of the door, but it disconnects inside of the door, and probably right inside of it.
Alright, now do I need that wiring for any reason on manual doors?Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
If not would it be possible to cut the wires if I have to and just tie them off.
like maybe 50 or so? they sell it by feet there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nio
Alright, Thanks, you guys are a big help.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shyboy88Lx-i
Power windows, power mirrors, power locks (sedans). If you don't want those, then no.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nio
Nope don't want any of that. Plus I don't think the hatchy doors I'm getting have those.Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
Okay, Big thanks charlie.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
Thanks man i wont
yep, the hatch doors don't have the notch in the door beam for the power locks to fit, all you need are aftermarket actuatorsQuote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
i got a 89 accord lxi 5sp... Where is the efi main relay??? i kno under the dash on driver side but which one!!!???
Its a little black box in the upper part, if I remember right its actually had 2 bolts and is hidden behind a bunch of wires and something else covering it.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDMPrelude23
have fun getting to the bolts its better to just leave it there and unplug it and leave the new one tucked inQuote:
Originally Posted by JDMPrelude23
Yea I forgot to mention, I agree with Messy on this, when I replaced mine I had to remove all the bolts out of the dash and pull it completely out, I had to remove the gauge cluster to do this, and have the steering column dropped.Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
*this is the closest picture I have, the phone corrupted everything that was during the install.*
http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/y...g?t=1299558254
Nio i want your car! not being a Se-i has to do with it just like the color :D.
i would so trade my sedan for this haha
You just want my 5 speed :P I love this color but I was debating on painting over it, or at least touching it up.
*btw you like how the steering column is down, and the power is off, But I seem to have a pretty full tank of gas O.o*
nope i dont want the 5spd lol and plus my sedan is a 5spd haha. i just like coupes :D
I have a mt 89 lxi with a blown motor. Suppose I find a running at motor, would it be just as simple as yanking the at off and bolting it on to the mt? Or would adjustments have to be made
Well guys I just got my first honda, first things first I need to replace the water pump and T-stat... I will get pics up in a few but I just thought I would ask if all of the blasted vacuum lines were actually necessary on the carb? I know that there are carb conversions that clean that mess up but im on a pretty tight budget.
Check the howto section for vacuum removal. :)
WOW... that should be sweet when its done... Thanks
1. Roll up window or removeQuote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
2. Remove two 10mm boltsthrough inside of door (must remove door panel first)
3. Pull on door handle from outside.
4. While handle is still attached to the opening rod turn handle counter clockwise until it has completely come off of the threads on the rod.
You need to install an alarm if you want to do this. Keep in mind our coupes have minimal space for power locking actuuators. That is what has kept me from doing this mod. I have to find some smaller actuators than the ones I have. My 4dr rear handles are just taking up space in storage.
I don't even bother to lock my car. No stereo, no aftermarket parts. No one is going to bother with my car.
