I'm just gonna get a camel pack and strap it to the back of the driver's seat. :kekeke:
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I'm just gonna get a camel pack and strap it to the back of the driver's seat. :kekeke:
:facepalm: Argh, so many issues. I need to swap in that rebuilt with all those delicious accessories. Car wouldn't start yesterday and had jump it with my friend's Jeep. (I'm jealous that he could fit a whole other engine under his hood, its so bare with a V6 and 4WD) We had the world's shortest jumper cables. He had to literally pull nose to nose just to make the connection. I didn't start the car in about 1 week. The battery is new and they jacked into it at the shop with a high end charge station and said it was healthy. I metered it when it was dead and it was at 7 volts :( I didn't leave the lights on or anything so I'm not sure why it drained so quick. After jumping it I ran it for about 30 minutes and got it back to 13+ volts at dead start. It peaks at 14+ volts when running under load, so it is charging.
I spilled a little bit of my grande latte twice today o.O I was lucky to have a passenger be able to clean it up and hold it for me.
I've been using the gap between the e-brake and the seat. Have you guys seen any cup holders that can be attached with a base like for some GPS units? How about that one armrest that someone was talking about, does that have cup holders? :)
No the only Honda stock cup holders are the ones you see. The optional center console had an armrest. You can always buy a universal cup holder that attaches to the door window or dash. People are selling both parts in the FS section.Quote:
Originally Posted by estooie
...I was imagining an all out American "pig" disscusion emerging over this cupholder deal. :uh:whewQuote:
Originally Posted by phrenology
think I will search here and see if there is a thread dedicated to the cupholders ose dot dot dot lol
My F150 has 8 oem cupholders zomg yet only six seat belts, and barely fits 5 large American asses in it.
Which continent's automaker was the real promoter of cupholders anyhew? dodge? Mercedes? VW? Toysoda? lol
If ya need cupholders, I'm sure she'd volunteer to sit in your passenger seat...
http://failblog.files.wordpress.com/...older-fail.jpg
Was that taken in Florida? "ah its good to be the Queen!"Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy
Seriously though anyone have an idea of what's killing my battery. The car sits there without having left the lights on or anything then its dead after one week. Batteries don't just discharge themselves. The battery warning light has been stuck on since I bought the car. Originally I was thinking there is a major short somewhere, or that the alternator was bad, but the car seems to be charging the battery, and it was checked at the shop. No new ECU codes either, since we fixed the EGR problem.
That sounds like a diode issue with the alternator, which will fry the internal regulator.. it is a trickle load on the battery when that happens. Time for a new alternator, the easiest solution esp if you are uncertain of it's age or condition. look here https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=65225
Other things to check are dome light , make sure it is switched off even if the bulb is blown ive seen some cars have a drain because of it. Check the glove box light, and the trunk light too.
Make sure the little plug is in the brake pedal up there where the brake light switch is. Sometimes those fall out too and lets the switch pass thru, thus leaving the brake lights on all the time.
Any add on stereo or etc. that is connected to constant batt. power, make sure those are connected right and or accessory not on too I guess.
Sorry I really don't find that HD cupholder very attractive, lill too masculine for me.. my car is a girl.
I got it started up last night with little issues, and ran it in the parking lot for a bit again. I looked at the thread and I do believe the alternator is the issue. I might just wait till I get the other motor back cause it had a new one mounted on it. I checked every square inch of the car for a light or something that maybe a slow drain on the battery, and nada. I suspected the key illuminator or the trunk light. No such luck in finding anything so it might be that diode in the alternator. Even if I buy a rebuilt or junkyard it doesn't seem worth it if I'm gonna swap in a few weeks.
:help: Not starting again. Charged the battery up, and it sat for less than 48 hours. No juice, not starting. Again I have combed every inch to see if there is something trickling or depleting the battery. Nothing. Any place to start looking for shorts? Nothing like this has happened for 3 months and now it just dies when parked. It springs to life when jump started and retains a charge under load, but when it sits it just dies. :crying:
What voltage is the battery putting out?
it could be the battery itself.
The first time that it was dead, it metered under 8 volts. Then I got a jump start and I let it run to charge. The battery was 14 volts + while charging from the alternator. Then I let it charge up to 13 + volts at a sitting charge, because I didn't have time to run the motor for another 30 minutes. After the jump start and charging I shut it down, and did a cold start and metered it I remember it was around 8 + volts.
From the other "battery" thread going around I read that it should be at 9.5 when cranking. The battery should be okay because it was new 4 months ago, it was tested and serviced at 2 locations, including being removed to have the terminals cleaned properly. They are firm connection.
The only electrical mod, was Pico helped me install a MSD coil but we didn't have time or space to mount the control box, so I thought that might be an additional drain on the system but not when the car isn't running? I'm still stumped but the battery indicator light in the dash has been on since I bought the car. I forgot since its been so long since I've had a 3G but will the battery light be on if the alternator or its diode is going? As a precaution I bought an alternator to replace it. If it's charging when running, but discharging the battery when sitting, does that mean the diode has a problem?
Bump for :help:
I'm going to get another jump soon, and see about metering the alt. where lost said too. I'll get back with my report later.
Have you drop that think already LOL
great work bro
:dunno: I think you're asking if I've lowered yet? No but soon. When gremlins stop sucking on my battery. :violin:Quote:
Originally Posted by Rendon LX-i
Grrrrrahahahahahaha DAMN IT. You get what you pay for...another headache. Ebay alternator turned out to be a 3 pin for LX...after I spent 2 hours grinding it out trying to rip the dead one from the clutches of my deathmobile...Neeeeed retribution and to stop messing with this vehicle. Pain is on the horizon!!!
Noob mistake, I make em all the time. No big deal.
Not noob mistake. His mistake. Ad said LXi, matched up the wrong order. :burn:Quote:
Originally Posted by nswst8
If you disconnect the battery cables overnight, does the battery still go dead? If not, then you have a voltage drain somewhere. If so, you have a bad battery. I don't think you have an alternator problem if it's putting out 14v.
If for some reason the field is staying energized while the ignition is off, that will cause a drain. The rotor is, after all, an electromagnet.
Check that when the key is off, the pin on the green alternator connector that goes to the black/yellow wire does NOT have voltage. That will rule out any problem with the ignition switch, but the alternator could still have an internal problem like roodoo2 was saying. Check for a voltage change (even just a hundredth of a volt) at the battery when you unplug the alternator.
The good news I just broke triple digit posts and it only took me over 7 1/2 years...LOL I guess I'm not the post whore I thought I was. The bad news still no running Accord. I haven't had time to work on it due to school and family crap. I'm pretty sure its the alternator, the car had a new battery when I bought it and has always had the charge/battery light on. Either way I'm gonna get an exchange on the LX alternator for the LXi, that failing I'll buy a new one, and sell this Nippon Denso LX. Argh.
Make sure for sure that it's not the battery cable clamp. The previous owner of my current coupe went through like seven alternators and a dozen batteries when the problem was just a loose cable.
Nice :D
Electrical demons continue to plague my Accord. I finally got the correct alternator and installed it with less cursing than it took to get the old one out. I also did dome basic battery maintenance, filed the terminals a bit and checked water levels. It didn't solve the issue. The battery/charge light is still on, and I still have a trickle drain when the car sits off. The new alternator give me the same charge readings at the battery as the old one.
When I got the car running again the headlights were acting odd. The motors work fine but the lamps didn't fire up so I toggled the switch on the dash in combination with switching the column and finally got them to come one, then while I was test driving they shut off by themselves. I thought it was just low voltage. When I got back I pulled the hi/lo fuses for the headlamps. (Fuses were good) I metered the battery while sitting and it still was draining 1/10th volt per second or so, pretty rapid drain! Then I realized the inside lights were still on so I killed everything, then the battery started going up 1/10th of a volt until it hit 12.08 volts! Total mystery, so I let the car sit for an hour with everything off and the lamp fuses still pulled. When I came back and metered it had dropped to 11.88.
So something is still eating power, I checked all the obvious stuff, loose terminals all the lights motor fuses etc. I decided I didn't want to call for a jump again in the morning so I pulled off the battery terminals. I have some clues about it being related to the lamps but no definite answer. Also BTW when I got the car I noticed the passenger side seat belt sensor had been disconnected. When I reconnected it and it kept beeping even with the seat belt fastened, I disconnected it again. Anything related electrically in the harness between the two? :dunno:
Argh, help me dudes...I'm at the end of my rope. :burn:
Have you tried a different battery? Is it possible for that one to have a short in it?
:facepalm: I don't think it drains on its own. I've always had the battery light and two different places tested my battery and said it was fine. The battery light has always been on but recently is started doing the drainage thing. Replacing the alternator didn't seem to help one bit. I'm just wondering if I have a short in the headlights somewhere cause they were acting up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanilla Sky
ok you must have the same problems as my coupe...use a multi meter and test each fuse...mine is the seat belt retractor...the voltage draw stops...so i just pull it every night till i unplug the retractor.
Mine doesn't have an electric retractor. It has warning sensors and the passenger one is f*cked. I don't know what to look for???Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
mine does not have retractors too... but its labeled like that on the fuse box...its a 20amp fuse....take it out and the batt will not die over nightQuote:
Originally Posted by phrenology
Thanks I'll give it a try tomorrow. I'm tired of hunting so I'll try otherwise its a cockpit mounted battery kill switch for me, LOL. BTW will that "retractor" malfunction cause the battery light to be on, or does that only give feedback for the battery/charge?Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
hmmm well maybe the battery can't hold the charge anymore? i had a problem like this when the car would start for 2 days and then wouldn't turn on at all... i checked all grounds and cleaned around it and bought a new battery. after i did that i bought new terminals and since then my car has not giving me any problems (thank 3geezus:thumbup:)
i dont know if a aftermarket stereo would cause problems :hsugh:
sorry if its not an answer
I don't have an aftermarket stereo.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shyboy88Lx-i
It would be easy enough to just get a fuse tap, a brass piece that plugs into the hot side of the fuse block where the fuse goes, and then put an inline fuse there up to a toggle switch back around to the load side of the fuse block where that fuse goes.Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
Headlight issue, this has to be isolated from the existing problem so there is no chance this is related to the original draw problem and the batt light. If they are commonly denominated then I would look for grounding issue, or ign switch, and possibly a diode malfunction.
Im not a big fan of these two door accords having the weird seat belt thing, it is enough to make me not want to fool with them at all. I like my sedan much better than the hatch now that Ive driven both a while.
I'm gonna check the grounds and maybe have the battery checked out again, when it tops being wet outside. Because the damn thing won't stop draining. If that all fails then I'm going to resort to a dash mounted battery disconnect with heavy duty wiring. :(
BTW does anyone know where all of the main ground points are? I just went fishing and didn't see what I needed on the forum. I'm gonna comb my PDF manual. I'm going to go through the electrical system and see what the heck is going on. If in fact I end up replacing the battery I was going to go with an Optima 75/25 red top...anyone have good experience with these?
I dont have reference up right at the moment but I know there is a major one down at the tranny around the top. One down kinda on the side or under the battery box.\For testing purposes just make a ground from the battery negative to the sheetmetal unibody underhood, then one to the block and then from block to sheetmetal.
Clean the terminal inside too, one time I battled one of these demons and it turned out to be a little black coating inside the terminal, didnt even look like corrosion.
Here you go
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...t=time+battery
i think we talked about every battery or almost
Wow that was good and confusing. Anyone have any lead? I'm gonna make my own battery. :devil:Quote:
Originally Posted by Shyboy88Lx-i
I'm pissed off with this car. Its got a 1.35 amp mystery draw on the battery. I did the alt. diagnostic and it wants to tell me the regulator in the alt is bad which is pissing me off cause I just replaced the alt with a ND rebuilt. The charge light is on all the time, when I disconnect the alt harness the light goes out, but there could be a short in the harness? :dunno:
this may sound crazy, but there are a couple ground boxes under the hood that are basically just junctions for several wires (all black) to come into a harness plug looking thing that just bolts down somewhere under the hood. they'd be near the headlight motors. you should be able to follow the headlight harness back to them if you trace the black wires. I had the same issues with my prelude and those wound up being all rusty and corroded. just make sure those have a clean connection.
also, I work at autozone. deal with battery issues every day. when we have a customer bringing back a battery repeatedly, its usually their car. several people have mentioned a lot of what i would have said, but i'll just recap.
-a battery can be internally shorted and drain itself down. it will also cause your alternator to test bad and the charge light to stay on or flicker. also causes strange electrical issues like certain systems to not work or not work properly. seen it happen. did a car once that the battery read charge and retest (basically the test claimed the battery wasn't bad, just that it had a drain) and the alternator tested bad. usually thats when i pack up the tools and say "your alternator isn't charging and its pulling the battery charge down, sorry, tootles." but this guy had had his alt tested at a mechanic and his battery warranty was about to run out, and i felt kinda generous so i forced his battery return and gave him a new one just so the guy could have some peace of mind. put in the new one, retested the system, and his alternator tested good along with the battery.
that said, i'd swap the battery for another car's known good battery just to rule that out. its not exactly an incredibly likely outcome, but i'd give it a shot
also, when putting in a new battery, make sure the battery posts are shiny silver, not dull and dark gray. there's green corrosion and black corossion. either can cause a poor connection. had that happen in the prelude before as well.
on another chord, at work just two weeks ago it took three alternators from Advance Auto parts to get a good one....
just read this whole thread again, omg did we whore it up or what...
Ok, I was trying to see what all was done and I would go back and check the cupholder instalation. What made me think to do this is I see a lot of drain issues on the net turn out to be the cig lighter with a slight short in it. Corrosion, screws sticking in it, foreign objects kinda small for the eye etc...
yeah make sure no screws went into a wire somewhere....
Also since the battery light is on, Im thinking bad regulator still. Reman alternators do not always have new ones installed, they use the one that was in the core if it cough cough passes insp. number 5.
Also since you have headlight issues, I would unplug all the combi switch leads and see what that does for the drain. There was an issue with one of mine before that the parking lights would be on even though they were not on when I parked.
Ive had problems with headlight wiring on all my cars, the wires break and get holes worn in them up front under the buckets.
The dome light can be a drain too, I would put it in stealth mode, meaning off all the time. Even if it isnt shining a light it can be a short if there is a bulb issue. Not sure if I can explain why though, but Ive seen it happen.
one more edit.. the dam brake light circuit can kill batt too, what happens is the little plug on the brake pedal shaft up by the switch, comes out. This leaves the switch closed on because there is nothing to hold down the button, the shaft passes thru it. You can glue the plug in or just use a small bolt and nut to fill the hole.
You got PM
Im thinking it may be a bad ignition switch causing something to be left on..i may be wrong but it's a good starting point to check
Thanks for all of the ideas. I have basically shelved the whole issue while I dealt with more immediate concerns. I don't drive the car often and its beginning to wear me down worrying about the POS. I'll take another look tomorrow if the battery isn't dead and try to isolate the problem. I have to buy more fuses for the meter anyway. It was dependable transit for about 3 weeks, now its just another pain in the ass on my list.
youre welcomeQuote:
Originally Posted by phrenology
Im feelin that and this shouldnt be the case....
not having it to use because of this is a source of stress and managing it would help you bear the other problems.. flip it around.:cool:
If you disconnect the battery entirely, does it still draw down? If so, then you have a battery problem. If not, then start disconnecting fuses until you find the one that prevents the draw-down. When you find it, go through that circuit wire by wire until you find the problem. Wiring problems ain't no fun, so I hear you PITA. Good luck.
I would but its not gonna sell for what its worth and if I put more effort and money into it then its gonna stay here. I might take it up North to have Pico help me out.Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
No when I leave the battery disconnected it doesn't drain. I suspect that there is either a pulled wire shorting out somewhere in the harness or the "new" alternator still has a bad regulator. Its just odd because it was fine for awhile even thought the battery/charge light was always on. If I can get it to Pico's we'll mess with the battery and see what's up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
NO< i did not mean flip it around as in sell it!Quote:
Originally Posted by phrenology
I meant flip it around, as in making the car the thing that relieves some the stressors bangin on you noggin caused by being without it.
LOL, okay...I thought you meant sell it. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by roodoo2
Have you tried pulling the fuses one by one? What circuit is the drain on?
I'm going to try and help phrenology tomorrow and pinpoint his short, if I have any help or questions I'll be on here posting it, so hopefully you guys can help us out
Thanks Roger...I'll let you know tonight how things went with the battery disconnect.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pico
sorry i cant make it but i work in the morn
We'll be exorcizing demons, stop by if you can.Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
did you find the power draw?
Demons be gone. Bad wiring, a new battery, alternator, fuses and some elbow grease...charge light go bye bye, and the mystery draw ran away. Maybe the new Optima might be packing its bags for the trunk. Thanks again Pico...you tha man.
lucky...i need to replace my batt
I defeated the Smog Monster by 4 points today, give my car a cookie.
:) great news!!
Congrats
Nice work!
Thanks Geez, still a pile of work to be done, but at least when she behaves I have good reason to keep on truckin' ;)
Argh, with all the rain we've been getting I realized...that "drip, drip, drip" on leather seats is no good... I think the numbnuts who installed the front windshield botched it. I was thinking a tube of sealant or caulking from the hardware store to seal the deal??? It seems to be dripping through an uneven bump in the sealant they used to attach the window along the frame. Its not major and thank goodness for covered parking here (that's about the only thing good about this wretched apartment) should hold me over until the morning. :nervous:
