sorry, i have never had my carb totally off, is that the stock intake maniold? hopefully a DGV is in my future so i am trying to learn.
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sorry, i have never had my carb totally off, is that the stock intake maniold? hopefully a DGV is in my future so i am trying to learn.
yes... look at my web site to see more pics of the intake manifold with the weber adapter plate. :D
mike, i have been there before, but you gotta keep a link to your site in your signiture. but don't worry, i have been there plenty of times.
That's exactly what I had to do to install the DCOEs. Man, getting the manifold off is a beast, and puttin it back on is just as much fun. LOL.Quote:
Originally posted by A20A1
if you don't hook up the coolant line expect cold start problems to last a lot longer... 10 - 15 minuets.
Without choke it usualy lasts just 5 minuets.
You can bypass the manifold heater by using a long cooloant line from the water pump pipe to the thermostat housing.
then you'll need to remove the intake manifold and plug the small hose that comes off the center of the water pipe and connects to the base plate of the carb.
Grant2K, if you click on this button that's at the bottom of his post it will take you to his homepage:
it's not working Site. but thanks for the try. could you just paste the url in a post or something? or use the hyperlink thing up there. thanks.
thanks.
Good news :D
Air Valve Secondaries (Vacuum Secondary)
Many factory carbs use an air valve to open the secondaries. There are the usual throttle plates that open mechanically, but a second set of plates is opened based on air demand. The mechanical throttle plates assure that the secondaries are closed when engine braking.
To put it simply, air pulls the secondaries open. There must be some form of resistance to control the opening rate. Rochester Quadrajet’s and Holley Economizers use a simple spring, the stiffer the spring, the slower they will open.
Since they open with air demand, they will not open fully if the engine is not pulling in enough air, so an overly large carburetor can work just fine.
so you should have no problems running a progressive carb with high CFM. but a Synchonous will cause the vacuum signal to drop along the venturis... you lean out and there goes your power.
im wondering if i can get a holley or edelbrock 4BBL to work with my engine. i mean i know they have a adapter to make a 2BBL mani to fit a 4BBL. but my real question is, would that work. my friend has a carb, but its a 4BBL. i wanna try this. but u think it would work?
you need the adapter plate from the weber kit then you need a 2bbl to 4bbl adapter... with all the plates on... anycarb you use will hit the hood. if it's a 4bbl with a vacuum secondary it might work... if it has a mechanical secondary i don't think it would run verry well.
you may also want to note that, for the most part, the smallest 4bbl carb you can get, from Holley, is 600 cfm in a square bore mechanical design -- you'd be lucky if the engine even started, let alone ran well. There's a reason those carbs are designed for 300+ cubic inch v8s.
well... ur not completely correct... i have seen many -300 CI motors with a four barrel. how about the 3.8 liter V6? thats like a 230 CI and it runs with a 600 CFM no prob!
Travis
but i agree... NO 4BBL on our cars!
Well, not entirely true, as the Weber DCOE carbs are two 2bbl carbs in effect.
If he had a mad cam, and major porting, he could run 500cfm easy.
you know, i think all that CFM limitation for our cars is big bullshit.
if people drop bigger carbs on V8 and they run better why can't we drop bigger on ours.
we all know the formula. if you take 302ci engine and calculate that it will come up with some thing like 500cfm carb i think. i don't remember.
but i know people who run 750cfm carb on 302ci and it is running just fine.
plus look at weber sidedrafters they putt way more than 300cfm for sure.
i would say go for it.
you can get honda-weber adapter plate and than if you find a plate from weber to holley you should be set.
i am working on 2 bbr 350cfm myselft right now. i ran into one problem, i can't find holley to weber adapter plate.
the best thing you can do is get the carb... even if it's 600 cfm you can enlarge the primary and secondary booster venturies to cause more restriction thus it will pull out gas better and keep the carb response high.
Then as the demand increases the vacuum will open the secondaries, it may not open enough to pull the full 600cfm but it will meet the demand of the engine for sure.
...assuming holley does have swapable boosters in the correct size
What are all of the companies that make carbs for our Accords? I've got a 88 LX Auto... which ones will work with that model and type?
I was told that some of the carburators will only work with standard (manual) transmissions... is that true? Will I have to get another Accy or swap the trans.?
Weber is the only one... and even then we are limited to the 32/36 and 38 for an easy conversion. Otherwise excpect to pay extra for making custom manifolds to use bigger and better carbs (weber or mikuni).
ok, ok,
i know that mikuni was bought out by keihin. is you look on ebay you can get keihin sidedrafters, and they are cheaper too.
so i was wondering what is the diff between mikuni and keihin sidedrafters?
Really? when did keihin buy out mikuni?
i mikuni carbs on my sled!
Travis
yeah a lot of the carbs they make are for small engines, stuff like sport bikes.
so do the keihin carbs work as good as mikuni?
i mean in tuning wise.
Well if you can find the carbs... then try and see how easy it would be for you to get the right size jets and venturis... if the parts are easy to find and buy then get the keihin. Most carbs are based on the same design so they should all perform about the same once tuned right.
I love my weber 32/36.
What kind of horsepower/torque advantage would I be recieving with each? (especially the weber)
And doesn't Holley make a carburator setup for an Accord? Or maybe it was just a universal main body.
