Idle air control valve hey? hmmm, maybe I will try replacing mine, better go in to work and price one out.
And when my upper intake was cleaned, I also had the oil changed and after that it seems to be quite a bit better.
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Idle air control valve hey? hmmm, maybe I will try replacing mine, better go in to work and price one out.
And when my upper intake was cleaned, I also had the oil changed and after that it seems to be quite a bit better.
I have a extra IAC I pulled of a jy car looks in good shape I can let go for 30 other than that the cheapest I found them was like 130 at majestic honda
there is a thread about the IAC/code 14 in the faq It tells about how to test it.
aww screw it this is what it says
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code 14, Electronic Air control valve (EACV)
1) turn ignition off. Remove #11 fuse in the under-hood relay box for 10 sec. to reset ECU. Start engine and observe "Check Engine" light. If light is off, problem is intermittent. Test drive and check again.
2) If light is on, turn ignition off. Disconnect EACV connector. Check resistance between the 2 connector terminals on valve.
3) Resistance should be 8-15 ohms. If not within specification, replace EACV. If resistance is within aspecification, proceed to next step
4)Check for continuity to ground on each EACV connector terminal. If continuity exists, replace EACV. If no continuity exists, turn ignition on. Connect volt meter between Black/Yellow (pos) and Black/Blue (neg) terminals.
5) Check for battery voltage. If no battery voltage exists, proceed to step 6. If battery voltage exists, disconnect connector from ECU and again check for battery voltage. If battery voltage still does not exist, substitute a known good ECU. If condition is rectified, replace original ECU. If battery voltage does exist, repair short between Black/Blue wire between ECU terminal A11 and EACV
6) If no battery voltage existed in step 5, measure voltage between ground and black/yellow terminal. If battery voltage now exists, proceed to step 7. If battery voltage still does does not exist, repair open Black/Yellow wire between fuse #1 and EACV
7)If battery voltage exists, turn ignition off. Reconnect EACV connector. Connect ECU test harness connector "A" to main wire side harness only. Turn ignition on. Using a voltmeter, measure voltage between connector terminals A11 (pos) and A18 (neg). If voltage does not exist, repair open between ECU terminal A11 and EACV
If battery voltage exists, connect and disconnect terminal A11 to A18. If EACV does not click when connector is connected and disconnected, replace EACV. If EACV clicks, substitiute a good ECU. If condition is rectified, replace original ECU
9) If none of the above works proceed to drive the fucking thing off a cliff
Thanks to Eric (POS carb)
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In the two years mine has been idling rough after running it on the interstate for a while then shuting it down and starting it again about 25 mins later, it has never prduced an ECU code.
Well, for me, it seemed that most of the problem was the iac.... got one from the wreckers, and it seemed to help alot, but the car still does it every now and then..... replacing the iac seemed to help it run alot better too
Ya, my car has never thrown up and codes... that would just make things too easy now wouldn't it.
I work at an auto parts store, so I should be able to get one fairly cheap./Quote:
I have a extra IAC I pulled of a jy car looks in good shape I can let go for 30 other than that the cheapest I found them was like 130 at majestic honda
That would be cool if you can get one I had a few places tem me that it was a honda only part so I had to go majestic honda.
Ya, so far i may have to do that, I can't seem to find an aftermarket listing for it.
shat guies, mines doin the same thing. It just started this weekend, after i drove it alot. Im having my dad take it to his work so this guy can take a look at it, also my car has had a hesitation problem, like when i would step on the gas from an idle, the car would hesitate, then it would take off. I think these probs have somthing to do with the timing of the pistons. I also think the hesitation has somthing to do with air flow. After i get mycar back and hear what the guy tells me, ill tell you what the prob is, k guies, later
Kevin
had my car looked at today, no good news. when we got to the guys house, he heard my car, and hes like that dosent sound good. we poped the hood, and he started to play with the spark plugs and wires. Soon we found out that only 2 of my cilinders were fireing. he checked the valves, nothin wrong there. then he started to play with the air filter, he thought there might be a leak or somthing. he got this spray and sprayed the filter and carb, nothin. then he sprayed a little on the engine, right where the intake manifold and engine block meet, the spray fixed it for about 2 seconds, then it went back to chuging. He then told us that the intake manifold gasket was blown. I just though to my self, great, i really did it this time. The gasket is preety much in the middle of the engine, so its going to be an ass to replace, but the guy is gonna do it. He said that the reason for it blowing was either heavy acceleration or a backfire.(ill let you decide which one it is, just for reference, check out my user icon) Hes only gonna to charge $150 to fix it, guess i got really lucky. Ivew been really hard on this car, speed wise, i guess im gonna have to lay off now:( It was fun while it lasted but i dont want to blow another gasket.Heres jjsut another thong to be careful of, so be careful guies. see ya later
My car does this once in a while too. I have notice though on the guages i have installed that the fuel mixture will get real lean for a second when it starts running rough and the vacuum will bouch back and forth about 1 or 2 In.Hg. sometimes its just the vacuum bouncing and fuel mixture stays ideal. i think it has something to do with my cars map sensor though. i need to dig out my service manual and see what it says as far as testing map sensor.
It would be great to get this solved because so many of us have it. Once this is solved we need to post the solution on this site. If we can get several of us that have this problem to perform the same fix we will have good data to back it up. What do you guys think?
Take a mirror and look inside thottle body for carbon buildup. It cuts airflow down when its hot also preheats air mixture which is bad. Either take off or attack it with cleaners
Hey, Hash Man - Are you the same Hash Man who was on Beyond.ca (where I was recently banned from for calling rage2 a Site Nazi who had to buy a website in order to acquire a group of captives who would listen to his grandiose bullshit)
Anyhoo - my girlfriends 86 also shakes at idle, so I hit upon this most excellent and helpful thread. I wonder if replacing plugs and wires would be a waste of money or what? Perhaps there are other things I should look at first to solve the problem?
I have obviously been driving diesels too long, and have forgotten all of my decades ago mechanical learning, and now need to elicit the help of the young uns'.
Peace!
oh yea that can be a real big problem. I got a head to do some work on it and this crap was cake on the head intake side and all over the intake manifold. It was like a think gel/grease or something and was not pretty at all. :sadwave:Quote:
Originally Posted by rocky2
I wonder if spraying in Combustion Chamber Cleaner every day for several days would dislodge the gunk that is inevitably forming inside the manifold of her car? We just bought it last weekend. It has 175000 kilometers on it, and is an otherwise well maintained one-owner car. The owners say they did not use "snake oils" like these cleaners.Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin86
I use fuel system cleaner in my own vehicles, and have for many years, with no adverse results...and no shaking.
Hmm, well, i was having the whole idle problem at random starts... it seems that since i adjusted my valves, it has gotten much, much better... it hasnt done the crazy idle at start, and it idles smooth, and hell, has power.
-Matt
Aha! Another fellow Canajun, eh? Good - then you are familiar with the Canajun Peso.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rex
I have faaarr too much work to do of my own and am not particularily inclined to do too much work on the girlfriends Accord unless I absolutely have to. That being said, what is involved in a valve adjustment? Is it just a straight-forward matter of finding TDC and using a wrench and feeler gauge to adjust the clearances between a rocker on each stroke, against a cam lobe? There are two smaller intake valves and one larger exhaust valve, I am guessing.
I have never cracked the binding of a Honda service and repair manual in my life.
If I get lazy (and its her money anyway) what does a valve adjustment cost at a local garage in Ontariario?
Yup. thats me.Quote:
Hey, Hash Man - Are you the same Hash Man who was on Beyond.ca (where I was recently banned from for calling rage2 a Site Nazi who had to buy a website in order to acquire a group of captives who would listen to his grandiose bullshit)
Anyhoo - my girlfriends 86 also shakes at idle, so I hit upon this most excellent and helpful thread. I wonder if replacing plugs and wires would be a waste of money or what? Perhaps there are other things I should look at first to solve the problem?
I am still trying to figure out this idle problem, but I have been lucky enough that it has not happened in probably close to three weeks now, im stoked.
I am going to see what happens in the next little while, and if it happens again, I am going to get a coolant flush (which i need anyways) and try changing my IAC.
I had the car in to honda about a week ago, and they couldnt seem to get anything to happen to the car... so I dunno, and they have no clue what this could be either.
i am having the same problem but mine will sometime die if i do not give it gas immediately...i was given a solution that i have not tried yet that is exact opposite of what u all are saying. the ect sensor is on the thermostat housing closest to the head. it supposedly sends signals to the ecm on the motor temp...when the motor is cold it uses more fuel when starting than a warm motor. if the sensor is faulty it will send signals that a warm motor is cold and dumps more fuel causing it to "flood" itself. thats what i was told and actually it seems really logical i am going to try it next weekend you can get it at autozone for a little more than 30 dollars.
That actually makes a lot of sense, I was told by a mechanic that I talked to to look in to the temp sensor on the block seeign as it obviously is directly related to engine temperature.... Lucky for me though, i have not had this happen in about a month now, which is nice to know... and I must say the accord hasnt run this well in a long time since i just cleaned the K&N filter.
