depending on the bore i would strongly recomend useing a caliper to determin how much you shave off the tb thats the easyest way to figuer out the diamiter (i cant spell )
depending on the bore i would strongly recomend useing a caliper to determin how much you shave off the tb thats the easyest way to figuer out the diamiter (i cant spell )
Unfortunately that is yes with a but. I got a 4th gen accord rc bored out TB today it bolts up wonderfull but I am having issues with it. When I first start my car it runs wonderfull but then it starts to do some weird things.. When I depress the clutch the engine stays reved about the same place it was when I hit the clutch and then when I start it idles very low about 200 I have played with the idle screw a little and am not resetting the ecu do you guys have any thoughts.
sounds like vacuum leak somewhere after the car warms up.
OK I reset the ecu I have checked for leaks cannot find any here is what it is doing now. When I hit the clutch it goes to about 2000 then after I stop for a sec it goes down and idles perfectly. I have yet to get any codes and I am thinking it may be the map sensor. I am going to try to get e J/y one from a 4th gen and see if I can get it to work. But tonight I am going to try a couple more things
you are talking about just the TB or the top half part of the intake manifold itself?
I think its because of the overbore on the already big TB of the 4th gen. Does the linkage get stuck? Mine did that and it turned out to be lotsa gunk inside the TB itself where the butterfly mates to the TB. A pic would be cool :)
All the ports on the TB line up?
I an going to have to check the port matching I believe it is close I havent really had time off from school but when I tried to adapt a civic one I ported the pletnum. But all the other ports line up the gasket number is even the same.
I don't think anything is getting stuck I cleaned everything. I am still going to hit the J/Y on thursday and see how it hooked up. It runs very well now except the high idle for a sec untill I stop. It is defantly a nice power gain
you are talking about port matching so i believe you are talking about the whole intake manifold??? cant wait for a pic bro. This is just friggin coool. :) :cool2:Quote:
Originally Posted by 1988starter
Great idea starter! im gonna put one on my lx :rolleyes:
read the title SMUFGUY... its says throttle body, so i think he means the whole intake manifold?? nope... he just won an oversized TB on ebay and thats what hes talkin about
Travis
Yup you got it and it is a direct fit I just think I am having map sensor problems. Altho I did take it on a 45 minute trip yesterday and had no problems except the weird idle thing and when I come to a full stop it goes right back to normal. I loved the feel on the express way. After idle settles down it idles low and very smooth. The bore is maxed at 62 mmin the front and 58.5 in the backQuote:
Originally Posted by dXsquared
thats what i thought, but the port matching kinda threw me off. :( a TB does not have ports only the end of the runners have em. Unless they are talking about different ports.Quote:
Originally Posted by dXsquared
I ment port matching the back of the TB to the pletnum and the fast idle ports tothe pletnum but the fast idle ones match perfectly. I honostly think it is a map sensor issue.
hey i just got a JG bored throttle body from a member here, and it does a similar thing, if i rev to 3000, it will idle at 3000 pretty much from then on. so if i shift early i will slowly pick up speed until im around 3000, its obnoxious
also i got a pgmfi light which was throwing me a TPS code....
so i am gonna snag another TB with known good TPS and try that.
i wonder WTF it could be thats doing that.
tangent:
also i have since put on my stock TB, and now i get a whistle sound when im part throttle. its fun to see how long i can sustain the sound, but im pretty sure its not a vaccum leak, my friend has the same setup on his civic si, and it sounds VERY similar, something to do with MSD, and CAI, but it makes a strange sound. the reason i think its msd related is because on his car the MSD was bolted down on the passenger side, and the whistle came from there, on my car the msd is mounted right behind the intake manifold, and thats where the whistle comes from.
it wont wistle just revving, so im having a really hard time isolating the noise.
Yea if I rev it to 3K then hit the clutch it will stay there. I am going to try to switch the TPS sensor with the one from my tb and see if it helps. BTW check your intake piping and make sure it is tight that is what usually makes a whistle.
Side note I don't feel any laging at any RPM but I will continue to figure out this problem because I love the gain I feel from the TB.
its all tight, its bizzare that it never happened before. also i have had it leak and its a different sound slightly... this whistle only happens for a few seconds under sustained part throttle.... if i gun it its just a chirp when i shift.
anyway it doesnt bother me, and the car is running strong so i will live with it. :)
make sure to post back if you fix the RPM problem.
Another thing I noticed it that the max bore possiable on a 4th gen TB is much bigger that that of an 86 or 87 accord but the same as a 88 TB at least when I measured your JG one vs my RC one and JG is known for going to the max bore
did i buy that TB off of you??? lol i just know the email addy of the person, i forgot who started the thread lol. :)
yea its the MAP sensor. I have heard they will act up with bored TB for some reason.
No you bought it from B20a turbo but I bought it from him first and returned it because it would not fit my 88 and the TPS on it is different from mineQuote:
Originally Posted by bobafett
I have a similar problem with my car wven with the stock TB. The only difference is that it will idle at 1100~ 1200 before dropping to 850. it's not that bad
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin86
Any clue on how to fix it. Or how to reset mine
First off sorry to the mods if you feel I should have combined this with my other thread BUT I thought it deserved it's own because I now have pics.
The old thread can be found HERE
1) OK IF ANY ONE HAS A 4TH GEN VACUME DIAGRAM PLEASE POST IT.
Ok here is the deal I have the car running it is a hella lot faster and real easy to do BUT the idle is very weird.
2) When I go into nutral or depress the clutch the engine revs to about 2k untill I stop for a sec and it settles down I think it may have to do with the larger vacume line not being used for what it is soposto I am going to diable it and try some stuff tomorrow.
3) Any way I believe the map sensor is getting a weird signal with the new TB so if you know how to reset it or change it please tell me. Other than that as soon as I am able to hit the J/Y I am going to pick up a 4th get MAP sensor and see what I can do.
any way here are the pics (YES I KNOW MY ENGINE BAY IS DIRTY IT IS WINTER HERE LEAVE ME ALONE)
The front of Both TB's
http://www.geocities.com/geezpict2/tbody/top.txt
A side view of the back
http://www.geocities.com/geezpict2/tbody/sback.txt
A top view of the back
http://www.geocities.com/geezpict2/tbody/tback.txt
Not mounted TB colant bypass
http://www.geocities.com/geezpict2/tbody/notb.txt
mounted with out nuts and new vacume line running in (red one)
The vacume port is larger than the 3rdgen one
http://www.geocities.com/geezpict2/tbody/bypass.txt
finally all mounted up ready to go
http://www.geocities.com/geezpict2/tbody/mounted.txt
I can email you a scanned copy of vacuum/emssions diagram for 90 Accord if you like
sweet that will help please send it to [email protected]
