That's Mike's old car. GSR swap right thurr. If an H22 weighs 385 lb and an A20 weighs 350 (est.), there's not much of a problem with weight distribution. You could run some ultra stiff springs in the front and softer ones in the back.
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That's Mike's old car. GSR swap right thurr. If an H22 weighs 385 lb and an A20 weighs 350 (est.), there's not much of a problem with weight distribution. You could run some ultra stiff springs in the front and softer ones in the back.
http://www.geocities.com/rick_spiff/car/index.html
what happen to this guy?
wp
im not even sure if he is still around. Last time i talked to him it, the motor just sat in there with no progress after the shitty motor mounts. I think he just gave up after all the hardwork. a lot of time and money put into a project that was said to be deemed, and yet some try only to find out on their own that its worthless. :( sad reality.
you said his mounts were bad, is there any reason why it cant be done if we get good mounts?
its still a longshot for me to come up with the time and money to do this, but i am willing to do as much help as i can for whoever wants to give this a shot.
even if the motor drop in with hella lot of work, we still gotta figure out what axle to run, also i dont know how tall the motor is, but i remeber him saying that valve cover of the H22 hit the hood when he tried to close it. so a hood modification is an issue tooQuote:
Originally Posted by sporkHSP
Besides, why would anyone want a H22? if any i would say a B series motor is much better choice and has a great potential than the h22. It still carries a stroke of 90.7mm so its pretty long stroked (bore is a decent 87mm). point is, stick with a B series.
I would stick with a B series also. There is a larger aftermarket for them and they fit much easier.
whatever, i give up. just figured i would mention it and see if anyone was interested.
i'm more fond of the h series than the b series... i mean what about say a turbo h23? of course it would be uber spendy, but that would be up there with the faster of the 3geez...
u sure about that? its not worth it man. Unless people have a 4th gen accord, i suggest that they dont venture into it. Its just tooo much. Just to have a car that is faster on the straight, just to have a car that has a different type of motor than anyone else, i mean all this just to be different? but again, this is just me, i am totally against engine swaps, but if any, ill swap only a B not a H.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanilla Sky
honestly, i'm staying with the a-series, unless i get a JDM b20... if i were to swap with anything else, i'd use the h series...
and the motor doesn't weigh that much more... if any more...
The motor weigh is always a good debate in the civic forums. The H22A isn't much heavier than the B series..
That thing can be fitted in a 92-95 Civic without problem. I'm sure it can be fited in our cars with the proper mounts.
Axles aren't a problem either.
Like I said, the ONLY problem is getting good mounts...
I would still prefer K series mounts. Can we be ahead of the competition for once? B and H series engines do not come in new cars anymore... these will die un a more or less short period of time.
if i can design k mounts can i have your b20 when you get your k enigine? ill give you mounts and cash. but i will never get a k motor and an enpyt 3gee to work with, so i guess it doesnt matter.
Hehehe. I've put too much money into my B20A just to let it go like this.
However, I can give you a stock B20A for the mounts (with manual tranny)
The K series engines are really new and will get a really good aftermarket support. The K24 is one hell of an engine if mated with a proper head.
Two things that I see with the K motor are price $$ and its totally differant motor design.. Hell it even spins the right way. There's a EG civic in SCC i read today with some pics with a sawp.
I think I can get H22 for about $1200 now domestic maybe a JDM for that price. But I'd still like a whole car to mess with.
EDIT: Im not finding B20 any where except the CRV ones?? is that the b20 your using?
wp
no, it's an import motor, you won't find one of those in the junkyard :p
he has a jdm accord b20. search the board for it, its a direct bolt-in for our cars.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sporkHSP
I understand its an import but there none available on the places I checked. If there none available not so sure how popular this swap is gonna be or how many aftermarket parts there gonna be.
My target is 200 hp so I dont think it would be for me.
wp
so all this talk is anybody gonna do anyhting about cause that means if they make it ill be able to throw itin my 2nd gen lude haha i also have a 5th lude with a h22 haha i can just throw it in if they make amounts even though my b20a is nasty think how nasty a h22 in a 2nd gen lude is fuck civics u aint got shit on me that owuld be nice ahhh we can always dream
Thats the way it works people want things but no one is willing to do some leg work. Then again when PRI sold b-series mounts for the past few years they only sold a handful of the kits so on the producers end there is no big incentive. But if you brought your car to hasport im sure they would do the job since thats exactly how PRI made the mounts for others. Someone in CA wanted the swap and gave up their car for a while and PRI made the first prototype.
with some cams and head work and stuff you can get ur 200hp on the stock motor. BUt u need to rebuild the block and get higher compression pistons if ur gonna stay NA.Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord
i'm getting bored of the usuall so i'm throwing in a spanner...
4get what goes on under the hood it can be done.
question is does the hood close? if so are the axles still horisontal?
I want an engine that has lots of consistant torque, has a quiet exhaust and a high power output for as little money as possible.
Consistent torque makes the vtec ideal.
however installing a smaller engine than my B20 is going to loose torque and drivability.
Also, my B20 weighs more than your A20. If ouur cars were built for the weight of the B20 then we should consider comparing the B20 to the h/k series.
Im happy with the B20A is pretty much stock trim. I put about 700 miles the past few weeks on it and its a nice upgrade over the A20A3. As far as weight i dont know numbers but the A20A is very heavy and i would be surprised if there was a big difference in weight. I want to hit the dyno to see what it puts down but i have a feeling it will be boosted before i make it to the dyno.
you are asking for too much with too less money. Honda 4cyls in the stock form make ass torque period. One thing our motors are known for is their weak ass torque. Except if u go for the V6 and turbos. The reason is that our displacement is a lot less compared to the competition. Vtec is the easy way to make power, not torque, at higher rpm, your torque drops down since you make torque at half the rpm (on average) of ur power output. Only for uphill you need torque, for a street course, a good revving engine, decent power output and a good tranny (hondas are good with that) is all u need. So if you badly want a lot of torque, u either need to stroke your motor ( i dont suggest that you do) . The B20A is already a smaller bore compared to the A20 and a long stroke than the A20. So if i was owning a B20A, i would be really uncomfortable to wind up that motor frequently, in the stock form to say the least. It only makes 5 ft-lbs more than the A20 too. But the head flows great after work is done to it and it will be nice.Quote:
Originally Posted by Civvy
For a good motor, i would rather have a linear powerband upto my peak (i want it around 4K to 5K) so that the transition is good and have it limited to 7K redline to keep my engine safe and tune it within those parameters.
So going back to the point of the post, Last time Rick Spiff lined it all up and tried to close it, it did not close, the motor was too tall for the way it was sitting. and i dont think the Aluminum B20 weighs the same as the Cast Iron A20. Also, u can get a B16 installed in ur car and boost it and make a lot more power and get tons of torque and still be streetable. But yeah, u need to get hold of the mounts.
The crank and the head is much heavier in the b20, anybody that has rebuilt both engines knows this.
I didnt mean i wanted to increase the torque output dramatically. I find the stock B20 fine for its size/class...?
Vtec is ideal because it can have maximum low-end torque of the 2.0L or 2.2L and also high performance valve timing. Problem with my engine is i can only do one or the other, if i alter the valve timing using some aftermarket cams i will have to sacrifice low-end drivability.
My car is a roadcar not a trackcar.
But if it cant fit under the bonnet thats a bum! we'll have to put it on the back seat.
