Clutches?

Thanks guys, I'll look into it... Not sure though. $1000 for a clutch/flywheel setup is alot of money on parts. But I'll think about it. I'm gonna hold on to my cash first, till everything on my next project pans out. I'm gonna attempt a B-series swap here soon. I got a b20b crv block in great condition for $100 that I'm gonna test fit and make mock-up mounts for and send it to a machine shop to be made in t6061 aluminum with urethane bushings. I'm still searching for a b16a2 99-00 civic si head to match it. Then an LS cable tranny.

Well the clutch face area and disk are bigger than stock on these as well as the parts being a lot more beefier, they also do different types of disks too but with the lighter flywheel this will have a bit less stress on the clutch as well. Also the Clutchnet prices are really cheap especially the Disks. If you look on their website the Clutch you need is for a Acura D16 ZC for some strange reason they don't have them listed for The prelude or 2G Accords? even though they are definately the same?

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Originally Posted by rjudgey

Well the clutch face area and disk are bigger than stock on these as well as the parts being a lot more beefier, they also do different types of disks too but with the lighter flywheel this will have a bit less stress on the clutch as well. Also the Clutchnet prices are really cheap especially the Disks. If you look on their website the Clutch you need is for a Acura D16 ZC for some strange reason they don't have them listed for The prelude or 2G Accords? even though they are definately the same?

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You mean the 1.8 Lude and 2g Accord clutch/flywheel assembly is bigger? or the Clutchnet versions?

BTW, that's some crazy machine work done to your engine there. How much HP are you running with your current setup?

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Originally Posted by ICEMAN707

You mean the 1.8 Lude and 2g Accord clutch/flywheel assembly is bigger? or the Clutchnet versions?

BTW, that's some crazy machine work done to your engine there. How much HP are you running with your current setup?

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Check this one out, I don't know if its any good but its going cheap:

Extreme Clutch Kit

stock replacement

If you have a b20a, whose transmission is not easy to come by, I reccomend NEVER getting anything beyond stock or stage 1 in terms of clutch. If I had 400whp and rally raced every weekend, I'd buy a stage 1 clutch.

In my experience, and that of many of my friends who are actual competitive racers, a clutch is minimal in terms of price to replace. A transmission is hard to come by, and much more expensive. The guy who owns the race shop I took my b20a bottom end to runs 11.8's on street legal trim with a N/A integra, and spent years buying transmissions (figuring hey, it's a b18, they're cheap). He told me that HIS racing buddies suggested a stage 1 setup for himself, and now he spends $100 every time something in his drivetrain takes a jolt instead of many times that.

If you have motor work done, and your tranny is hard to come by, I would, no matter what, not reccomend a stage 2,3,+++ clutch. Keep the clutch your 'weakest link' in the drivetrain. Your axles will thank you as well if you have tons of wheel torque.

I recently installed an ACT CLUTCH, with the heavy performance clutch disc and new clutch cable. I am hard on clutches, this will be my third clutch. This ACT clutch grabs well, I can easily spin my tire, if I am not paying attention. There is no noticeable pedal effort, when driving in city traffic. I would highly recommend this clutch to someone who is thinking of better than stock clutch.

HA2-HDSS
SKU: 83705500565

# This kit includes these components: H-018 - Heavy Duty Pressure Plate
# HSD005S - Performance Street Disc
# RB370 - Release Bearing
# AT52 - Alignment Tool
Torque Capacity: 200 ft/lbs.

The only problem with a stage 1 clutch is that you will be smoking them all the time with a good amound of torque and traction. Ive already blown a 3 puck unsprung and a stock replacement type clutch, and sean has smoked 6 puck clutches left and right, as well as quite a few other guys. yeah, my clutch might be overkill but usually the next thing to slip/break are the axles and then the tranny. If you absolutely must go fast, you absolutely must have a clutch that can take abuse. I have seen quite a few 12 sec hondas using an oem style disk with somthing like a 2-3x stiffer than stock pressure plate with minimal failures, they just get slippy when they heat up. Generally boosted cars have more torque than NA cars especially in hondas, so you can get away with a smaller clutch in a vehicle with less torque. Thats why i cant get away with a stage 1 clutch but your friend running the fast N/A teg can run one no prob.

i dont know if its applicable specifically, because i have never used an aftermarket clutch, but my friend had an ACT stage 3 in his supercharged VW corrado, and that POS was worthless (the clutch ;-) ) it lasted like 10,000 TOPS, and was only drag launched maybe 15 times. :( the car had decent tq, maybe 200+, but the clutch couldnt even hold it all. :(

i have heard nothing less than GREAT response from clutchnet anywhere i ahve read about them. i bought a spec stage3 clutch, which was reasonably priced, but only holds 250 or 260 ft lbs, which wont be enough. :( i will probably go with a clutchnet after i toast the spec clutch.

You guys mentioned to stay away from Centerforce. I was wondering why you suggest that. I'm also looking at installing a new clutch in about a week. I only drive on the street. My car only has a catback and an intake. Would you still recommend avoiding Centerforce for me? (I don't mean to hijack)

with catback and intake, if you dont plan on modifying your car much further, i think that OEM honda clutch is your smartest choice. if you drag race a lot, then a better clutch is appropriate, but if its a street driven a20 with minimal bolt ons, a oem clutch will hold up forever. :D

I'm not done with my mods...but most will be relatively mild. How far do you think the oem clutch will go? Also, what clutch would you recommend as a light step up above oem, and why? Thanks for the input as its hard to get advice on these things anywhere else.

I have a good amount of bolt on mods, and have OEM clutch:

CAI, 2.25 Exhaust, Fireball Muffler, DC Header, 2.5" High Flow Cat, Delta 272 Cam, MSD 6A Ignition, MSD Blaster SS Coil, 4g MAP Sensor, Short Shifter. I consider that a mild bolt on setup. there is more that you could do, like SAFC, fuel pressure regulator, throttle body, intake manifold etc... but i have the mods listed above, and my clutch doesnt slip badly. My clutch is original, and has 270,000 miles on it, and will still hold my power. its a little soft, but i am honestly amazed that it has held up this long, considering i have raced it several time. unless your planning for real power adders like boost or nitrous, i think the stock clutch would be great.

if you feel like you want to get something better, look into a lower rated clutch net clutch. some of them have good clamping power, and oem pedal feel. :) but its probably not necessary.

youll need a farily extensive list of mods to warrant going with a puck- style clutch, you really wont get a very long lifespan out of them anyway, the stock clutch like bobafett says works fine unless youre into nitrous or boost or a wild NA build. Ive heard alot of bad things about centerforce clutches, and lately ive been hearing stories about act clutches too. I smoked my 3 puck spec but that thing was nasty to begin with, totally unstreetable. The reason why i run a dual diaphram 6 puck sprung race clutch is that nothing else will hold up to the power im making and the abuse i give it. Every other clutch ive looked at except for a clutch masters stage 4 (which is a 4 puck sprung) and the spec stage 5 (3 puck unsprung) will not hold over 250ish lb ft of tq, and ive already smoked the spec stage 5 so i figured id just go with somthing with a big nasty pressure plate. The strategy has worked good soo far, i dont think the 6 puck is that nasty to drive, other than a very heavy pedal, but i havent broken a clutch cable

can u pm me a part number/price etc for the clutch u are running now. after hearing your experience with the spec clutches, i will probably end up with something very similar to u after 'using up' my spec clutch

if ur smoking spec stage 5 at 13 psi or less, i know i will destroy mine as well. :(

Well idk what was up with that, it was unstreetable as all hell, but the pressure plate side ground itself down to the rivets, yet the flywheel was undamaged, as was that side of the disk... Oh well, it lasted 600 miles on 3psi lol... idk maybe i just got a bad one? Im on around 8-10k miles on the clutchnet. Ok boba i was looking through their site and i couldnt find exactly what pressure plate im running, because it listed them in 2x and 3x stock pressures, im running a red dual diaphram so id guess that its a 3x stock pp. If i were you id just give them a call and ask them whats up... I paid like $385, their site currently lists the 6 puck sprung and 3x pp at $400 (thats what combo im running)... That is cheaper than either the spec stage 5 or the ClutchMasters stage 4.

sounds good. i will give them a call when it gets closer to boost time! ;-)

Thanks for the advice guys. Looks like I'll order an OEM replacement. Thanks again.

well does anyone know if its possible to swap disks between manufactures. Im running a http://www.performancecenter.com/pro...r_ACTHP3-XTMM/

and its only good for 310 lbs tq. Im planning on running 12s pretty easy and need a good one. Im thinking the 6 puck but act doesnt make a sprung puck. They say there pressure plates are made to oem specs but 88% more holding power or whatever. Can I swap in a different manufacture sprung 6 puck or just buy a whole nother setup. Seems to me the PP is the most costly and the disks are like 1-200 bucks so Id rather just by a disk. This is for the JDM B20a so id be a setup from a 88-91 prelude si B20a5. Mike

run a clutchnet 6 puck sprung disk

you guys think there is a driveability issue with 5lb. aluminum flywheel or no? is a windowed clutch versus a full faced clutch lighter? i wanna go lighter in the drivetrain to cut down on acceleration times. thanks for the advice so far guys!

i run an 8lb aasco and it isnt that hard to drive, you get used to it. I like the way the motor revs with it though

RPS Stage 3 Six Puck (Max Series) Clutch / Solid Hub

Specs = Torque Cap: 730 Pressure Increase: +85%

Damn thing took 500+ miles to break in... Could barely drive her when I first put it in. Now the thing bites down with no slip at all at 4500rpms easily.

yeah i like the way the a20 sounds when it revs. describe how the driveability of an ultralight flywheel is like. do you have to rev higher than normal off the line to keep the car from stalling out at launch?

yeah you gotta take off a little higher and build more skill to drive the car because the revs build fast and fall fast, so especially when revmatching, its harder. I couldnt launch before over 2800 rpm or id spin to oblivion (thats NA with stock flywheel) now with my absolute crap tune and 8lb wheel i launch at like at least 3500. Fine line between wheelspin and bog... but it might be just because my tuning sucks