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ok, and club civic is FULL of people that give bad advise. I asked if i could put my 13" steelies on for the winter. I got 2, yes TWO responses that said they would fit. (there were only 2 responses)
well, guess what, i go to put them on, and the rotors/calipers are too big for them.
I need a better site to go to now for my civic... any ideas?
sounds like the engine is flooding
He said the airbags had deployed, so I guess they didnt wanna put a real Honda steering wheel back onQuote:
Originally Posted by blazin3gen
well did you put the IACV back on?! ... sheesh! ;) j/kQuote:
Originally Posted by Deadhead
anyway, did you buy a new gasket for it? if you're using an old one, it won't work. also, try to make sure the parts still move freely on the inside. i don't know how that one works, but you might try a little oil and try blowing/sucking on the vacuum nipple (which i'm sure you reconnected...)
uhm... the one i sprayed was on the back of the TB. it has 2 coolant hoses attatched. There was no gasket.
ALSO. I went outside after it would not start. I parked it there for several hours and it being freezing cold out. I tried to start it, fired up like a new car!
Then after i killed it, i tried to start it again, it did not start. It is definately getting TOO MUCH FUEL.
replaced the TPS today, didn't help anything.
take a pic of your intake mani and i'll point the IACV out. it's usually attached to the plenum, not the TB. it's just a funky thing that sticks out like a wart and has 1 vacuum line going to it. when you remove it, you'll notice 2 holes and there's a gasket between this whole IACV and the plenum
oh, and after i replaced the tps, it ran, but power was still horrible and it still would not idle. The old tps looked just fine. There was a way to adjust the TPS, but i didn't know how to do it...
I might also add that it makes a LOT of noise from the intake, moreso than i've heard before, but isn't that just the fact that i have a SRI?
I have NO engine check light on, and i'm trying to see if it's just not working or w/e by taking plugs off of things then turning the key. Still no light. I wonder if it's burned out and i need to get a scan tool of sorts.
Nice ride dude. I know its hard looking at it and not being able to drive it. Your best bet is to get some estimates from a few mechanics in town, if it boils down to that.
ok your TPS is the dirty black plug on the bottom of the pic, near the TB. it looks like you replaced the black box that's all shiney on TOP of the TB. that's not the TPS, in case that's what you replaced.
also the TPS is adjusted by moving it the same way as a dizzy. loosen nuts, adjust, tighten nuts. and you need a volt meter to do it. i can give you detailed instructions later.
read this too:
http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=144463
no, it's the TPS i replaced, i just took it off an accord at the J/Y. The shiney one above it is shiney because before i got the car, EVERYTHING was detailed and made to look like new.
OK, got some pictures of the IACV.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...h_537f637e.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...h_1921626a.jpg
it looked relatively clean when i took it off, but i'm letting it dry now after spraying the hell out of it with carb cleaner.
AND what is that screw thingy on the side??? It is not a normal wrench that goes in there.... it's got 5 sides.
ok, i need a few things. How do i adjust the TPS?
also, I put the IACV back on after cleaning it real good. Nothing changed... I also replaced the Fuel pressure regulator and that did nothing also.
With the check engine light, someone removed it or the light is just burned out. I need to get a code reader to see what else could be the matter with it.
to adjust TPS:
http://www.integra.orcon.net.nz/tps
Hey thanks... now i've just got to buy a multimeter..
Did you do that compression test on it like we talked about? What was it? Car looks real clean since you bought it & clean it up.
yes i did... gave out awesome numbers.
the compression gauge was some POS from walmart, and it wouldn't hold pressure for some wierd reason...
It came up to 90 psi on the first pump in all cylinders.... then leaked out of the gauge lol.
Not too bad IMO...
I also found out who owned the car before, and i was right, some dumbass who beat the shit out of it...
the car was taken off jumps and one of my friends has seen it on two wheels before.
frame is still straight though lol...
uhm... 90 psi is really shitty.
my lude is supposed to be 178psi stock, and that's 9.0:1 compression. (it's a bit higher now, but that's because I milled the head)
anyway, 90% of Honda's say that the servicable limit of the engine is 120-130psi. meaning, 90psi is way below what it ought to be, and shouldn't hardly run... you need a full rebuild.
no no no...
When you do a compression test, your supposed to look at the first pump the gauge gets. It's supposed to show at least HALF of what it will be after total cranking.
My gauge is a POS and won't hold pressure... so it just bounced up there and dropped.
My accord was at 50-60 psi on the first pump.... and it averaged 125 or so for all the cylinders.
oh... well that's better, but still pretty crappy.
I don't mean to say your car is a pos or anything. i'm not putting it down. i'm just saying you really need a rebuild. :(
no.... if stock specs is around 178 or so like you said, then i'm doing great... no need for a rebuild.
90psi is supposed to be at least half of the total compression... therefore 180psi...good compression, but anywho, when i get my car down to the community college, i'll grab the snap on one.... that one actually holds pressure.
also talked to a mechanic today and found out a way to test the IACV. The one on my civic has a little motor in it that opens a retaining spring to allow air to flow. He said that i should hold the car at a steady rpm and pull the power plug... and if the car dies, it is working because it will block off the air. Well, I did that and guess what, the car stayed on. So i'm going to replace that and probably the o2 sensor in the CAT. Hopefully that's all i'll have to fix.
......
the max compression that your gauge reads is the max compression that your engine has, period. sorry...
the first pump has nothing to do with the total compression. that's totally obscure and makes no sense... probably some old school dukes of hazard theory...
125 is bad. very bad. like 350,000 miles bad. (or abuse bad)
don't be so discouraged though. like the links above show, you can get a FULL build up kit for under $800 (and that's forged parts, not just cheap rebuild crap).
but whatever. if you wanna run low compression, go ahead. it'll last another 10,000 miles before the rings disintegrate... lol
*sigh*
I can truthfully tell you that's bs.
We JUST did this in my auto tech class, even on NEW vehicles it was like that...
you know when you do a compression test, you crank it over until all of the 4 strokes of the engine are complete. And if you watch the gauge at the same time, the first "jump" on the gauge should be at least half of the total compression that you will get.
I'll get our worksheet scanned when i get it back from the instructor and show you.
My instructor is an ASE triple master and has worked on all kinds of cars (specifically more toyota and subaru).
This is a NATEF certified school with ASE approved material and ASE master instructors.... I think it's correct.
fact is that my gauge would not hold pressure lol... I got the gauge at wal-mart for christs sake. i need to get the snap-on one to get an accurate compression reading. My gauge would go to 90 psi and then drop to zero in a fraction of a second... the gauge is a pos.
yes, 125 psi is bad for my old honda. However, it still ran pretty good.
I seriously doubt it needs a rebuild. The car was driven hard for only about 5000 miles. It was given to this kid by his grandmother at around 85k miles from what i know about the car.
