How to clean block/head

Here is a New DISTRIBUTOR on Ebay http://i22.ebayimg.com/03/i/05/d5/f2/0e_1_sbl.JPG Here si the Link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-R...QQcmdZViewItem

That's freaking expensive.

hey david.... u know these engines are freaking stupily easy... ok the story on that block is that i put standard bearings in it... well there is a color key stamped into the block that i didnt know about when i did it.... it tells u what bearing to use in each journal... to get the proper bearings you need to look in the chilton and look at the letters on the block to know what color bearings to order FROM THE DEALER... the only way to get away from this senerio is to get the crank turned to a larger bearing size. i would consider helping you if u just said u were sorry and came up with the 75 from arianna.. im not really pissed off anymore i just will never understand what happened there... ohwell

I use Plastigauge to determine if the rod & main bearings are out of tolerance & if the crank needs turned & undersized bearings are needed.

don't forget new oil pump too.
Also get the new pistons put one and have the bores honed so that the new rings seat better. Have the block decked to level off minimal amount and smae for the head too. The bearings best to give to machinist get him to check for wear and balance and let him make judgement on the size bearings to use. Other than that as everyone said blocks are easy heads are harder and have way more moving parts. I've found that heads need re-conditioning more than the blocks a block will quite happily do 30k hard miles and the head will need to be pulled 15k to be cleaned up and de-coked and have the camshaft bearing surfaces re-polished but thats on my race engine standard engine block good for 200k easy trouble free head 100k needs new head gasket and strip and cleanup while your there.

I've got everything needed except the timing belt tensioner and bearings. Block and oil pan is cleaned as well as the head. I also need head bolts and a valve cover. I'm going to start working on it again as soon as I get the headbolts. As for the bearings, I have some research to do. Where is the color key stamped into the block for the bearings?

If you want head bolts, the only place to get them are the dealer & APR. Either plastigauge your bearings or take your stuff to a machinist to order the right ones. Can't go wrong. Never seen color codes on nothing, so where that is coming from I have no idea. The belt & tensioner can be bought at any parts store.

Quote:

---

ARP Head Studs, part # 218-4703
http://arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html
For '98-'02 Miata. Same as ours.

---

Edit- The head bolts can be re-used. Their not TTY (torque to yeild) bolts that require a torque meter after a second torque. An example is a 90 degree torque which is what most TTY bolts need.

I already bought the plastiguage a couple weeks ago. I'm just going to do it myself, it's not that hard.

if your car is an LXI (which it is) then u can reuse the head bolts... you only have to replace the strechy ones on the carb engines

I already got the headbolts and valve cover. Going to paint the valve cover metallic red. Also got some fuel injectors. I will get the intake manifold next week and clean it up.