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the secondary is manual. i did that right after i took the vacuum bs out since the diaphram hardly worked. the only things really connected are the ABC ports and the port originally used for the secondary puller thats now connected to the distributor.
I know this thread is a couple months old but my concern fits. In doing the vacuum removal or weber 32/34 conversion, is it best to remove/disable the egr system or leave it functional. In other engines the egr helps with detonation (ping) in hot climates, if the egr is functioning as designed. I've already metal puttyed my egr ports and cut the tube, but I am wondering if that was a good idea. Georgia has hot summers and the head has had a good bit shaved , not sure what the limit is on that they took off .015 this time and the head had 300K on it.
Also when checking the timing (automatic). On the car I have there are half dozen marks and it has been confusing trying to disimulate information on what marks to use. At first I was using the red mark (which also has two other marks each side of it, as tdc to time up the head to block. There is also a green dot mark (also on the flywheel) , a black dot mark, and then an engraved slash mark with a barely visable "T" sideways. AS of today my understanding is the red mark is 15btc, and the slash above the T mark is TDC. Any takers on if this is correct?
I set the T as tdc for the timing belt, which probably will run but not best, I guess. Now I think it is suppose to be on the slash above the T. I have read for hours on the forums and I have not seen where the mulitple marks were clearly addressed. Maybe some input on this thread will help some us get it clear before we start setting up wrong.
yes egr does help but so far I have no idea how to run EGR on simply just vaccum... thought I'm sure it could be done. It would be better if you had at least one solenoid and a few sensors to regulate when the egr is in opperation.
Ok, I admit my experience with this motor is only recent so I rely on references and this forum a lot for insight. I know that on a shevy (80's vintage) they use a thermovalve (vacuum cont.) and ported vaccum to control egr , so that vac is applyed only warmed up and at part throttle. I assume the A20 engine can't operate smoothly under all conditions with that type set up?
Why so many factory timing marks on an automatic flywheel, and mine did NOT have any white marks as well like the factory manual says. Is the tdc mark the slash above the engraved 'T' and the red mark with slashes either side of it used just for ign timing light?
I used to use the T mark... I haven't adjusted mine in so long I forget what to look at. I'll try and find a better picture.
its been getting hot lately and i had noticed that it started pinging again. so i switched from 87 octane to 93 octane. this time i see a large improvement. idles smoother, starts easier, no bogging when fully pushing the gas, takes off better with no hesitation, better fuel mileage, and the engine runs cooler. oh, and no pinging at all, even if i start in second and punch it. so yeah i think i'm just going to stick with the good fuel.
Sounds like a plan to me...Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaBoy
they have been screwing the gasoline so much in my area it has gotten ridiculous. They keep adding alcohol to blend in the gas to help it mix with the other gas made with different refining techniques, then it seems like the higher the price the sorry-er the gas quaility. I used to be able to smell it as it comes from the pump and tell the quality, lately it doesnt have much of a smell unless you get the good stuff. I work with a govt fleet of all types vehicles so I can see it happening. The sorry gas reeks havoc on injectors and injector drivers in pcm, causes valve problems, stops up egr flow, causes oil contamination, list of problems. Im now blaming it on the demise of my A20, my head gasket blew between cyl, never ran hot even driving it home 75mph on 2 cylinders.My gasket must have been borderline and the non combustion situation took it on out. I dunno. I use BG 44K gas enhancer in my other rides every oil change, it works great.
i honestly dont know if doing the vacuum removal on the carb or old age or maybe something else has made it necessary to run higher octane fuel in my car. but it does run a lot better with it. i have a feeling it was the vacuum removal that had something to do with it. without the computer input for vacuum oporated devices to control the fuel i guess thats what happens. but i can deal with it. my mom's '97 neon had been pinging for a while. i told her to try a tank of 93 octane just to see what would happen. she said her mileage has went up and it all together quit pinging. so i can see that it has worked on both cars. i would also like to see if i can get a spark plug of another heat range for my car, then maybe i can run 87 octane with no pinging. but i'd rather just not worry about it i guess.
