Project A20 and B20 Begins

Oh also had a major break today got of a ban for speeding thought i was going to get a 2-6 week suspension but racked a few points up instead and got a $1200 U.S. £600 U.K. fine was a bit steep and would have paid for a nice set of rods and pistons but hey no ban!! Thought i was a gonna when they told the judge i had a previous suspension 3 years ago but the old girl must of liked me ;0)
Not all good though blew a fuse in my Hifi power amp and found out some brazilian F*%k has been stealing money out my Visa card!! And i missed the film i wanted to watch tonight because of bad road accident and closed roads they say bad things come in 3 lets just hope so!!!

See stop speeding, I did after my 3rd ticket, actually my 3rd one was me caught on a speed camera but our most lovely citizens banned the speed cameras from our state so we don't have them any more... power to the people.

Anyways i didn't have to pay my 3rd ticket... I took that a some sign to stop while I was ahead.

<avid speed enthusiast without a single speeding ticket. I'm bad at parking, though, lol. just can't read the "flagler college students only" signs at my girlfriend's school.

I've read 2 weber repair manuals, and they both seem to say that i can trade off some power for drivability. have you ever tried to tune with drivability in mind? i know that when i finally do the swap, I'll be getting maybe 23-24 MPG when driving conservatively. I'm fine with that. what I'm not so happy with is not being able to basically jump in and go. i know warm ups will become part of my morning routines, and I'm fine with that. but what about hot restarts? what about idle quality? what about being able to hand the keys to someone that's never driven anything other than an EFI car and expecting them to be able to drive? these are all things I'm concerned about.

sorry for the threadjack.

the b18a came with dual carbs....so yeah i bet you can convert a b20 into carbed b20

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Originally Posted by Vanilla Sky

<avid speed enthusiast without a single speeding ticket. I'm bad at parking, though, lol. just can't read the "flagler college students only" signs at my girlfriend's school.
I've read 2 weber repair manuals, and they both seem to say that i can trade off some power for drivability. have you ever tried to tune with drivability in mind? i know that when i finally do the swap, I'll be getting maybe 23-24 MPG when driving conservatively. I'm fine with that. what I'm not so happy with is not being able to basically jump in and go. i know warm ups will become part of my morning routines, and I'm fine with that. but what about hot restarts? what about idle quality? what about being able to hand the keys to someone that's never driven anything other than an EFI car and expecting them to be able to drive? these are all things I'm concerned about.
sorry for the threadjack.

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Yes you can always build the carbs to be econmunists..

lol :)

Maybe hook up the stock air box hot air valve and snorkle and air bleed valve to whatever air box you create for the webers.

There not that bad, i did a 400 mile trip on just under 60 litres of fuel on the motorway would have got more but was stuck in traffic for about 100miles so couldn't cruise at the most ideal speed which ironically is about 80mph!!!

Idle is fine depends on cams and hot starting again is fine you just need to run for a few minutes when cold when it's warm will start first time. You don't need the manual chokes, and you don't need to worry about peopel driving unless they plane on burying the throttle at standstill then they'll just be sitting there looking silly for a few seconds untill all hell suddenly breaks loose then they'll be lighting up the wheels!!! There not that hard to drive if you drive sensibly and just normally there fine. Only other thing buy new much less grief!!! they aren't very reliable when they've done 50-60k miles springs and valves start sticking adn breaking but are easily and cheaply replaced.

the set i have is stripped for a full rebuild. i have everything i need to rebuild them, i just need to sit down and do it.

What size are they? DCOE 40's or 45's?

Do you have an idea of what setup to use inside them?

Also if your pulling them apart some good tips

1: replace the butterfly screws with countersunk ones you can get these from a model shop. Grind the ends flush at both sides

2: Get a small dremel and some needle files and remove all the casting flash on all the parts inside the webers.

3: Depending on how hardcore your going you can machine the chokes out to max size of just a smidge under 42mm you loose a lot of the choke so your carb body then becomes the choke, the choke is there purely to make it more aerodynamic over a machined edge thats inside the carb body.

4: Also get a nice set of spun ally bell mouthed trumpets and make sure they fit nicely inside and make sure there for 45's not 40's.

5: Don't forget to use the anti vibration mounts and make sure that they and the carbs are all matched nicely to each other.

6: Use a good qaulity air filter or air box and ram air intake is definately advantageous although at winter best remove or the carbs can ice up when 5 degrees C or less

they're 40s. i planned on staying pretty stock, but those tweaks are all things that i don't mind getting into since i have the carbs fully disassembled already.

40's chokes can be machined out quite a lot i think you can get them upto 38 maybe nearly 40mm in size with these A series bigger the better, best thing to do is to buy a 36mm choke and have it machined out to it's largest size to see how far you can go with it.

I still need to maintain drivability, low end torque, and as much fuel econ as I can. I don't really want to be feeding more air and fuel than I need to for now. When the car is less of a daily driver, then I'll probably source a pair of 45's. For now, I really would like to stay with smaller chokes.

Economy is controlled by your foot, if you don't have self control the last thing you want is a set of webers cause everytime you open up that throttle it makes such a glorious noise that all you'll want to do is keep it open and then bang goes your economy no matter what settings you choose so you might as well have the best settings you can and then have a big block of wood under the pedal!!! Why do you think Webers are so scary, undriveable and really bad fuel economy i think someone from the FI brigade has been trying to put you off and hugely exagerating how webers work. If your really that bothered get some Bike ITB's and run megasquirt you don't even need the ignition system just run the stock one.